Acura CL Maplights w/Homelink install
#21
Originally Posted by b17gsr
IIRC, mine was from a 99 CL, and I was too lazy to source the bracket. If you plan on installing the JDM roof console, you need to mount the map lights closer to the rear view mirror.
It's not hard, the first cut is the scariest.
Now that winter is fast approaching, I'm using the map lights a few times per week, and the Homelink even more!
It's not hard, the first cut is the scariest.
Now that winter is fast approaching, I'm using the map lights a few times per week, and the Homelink even more!
#22
my dad saw this post and did the install in my fit
he noticed the block of foam, and basically positioned the map light so that he can take out the block of foam.. he then split the block of foam in half, use it to prop up front and back of the hole so that when you push on the homelink buttons, it's still supported
on my odysessy, when the doors open, the map lights turn on.. is that what the middle pin is for?
-joe
he noticed the block of foam, and basically positioned the map light so that he can take out the block of foam.. he then split the block of foam in half, use it to prop up front and back of the hole so that when you push on the homelink buttons, it's still supported
on my odysessy, when the doors open, the map lights turn on.. is that what the middle pin is for?
-joe
#24
Originally Posted by sillypuddy
my dad saw this post and did the install in my fit
he noticed the block of foam, and basically positioned the map light so that he can take out the block of foam.. he then split the block of foam in half, use it to prop up front and back of the hole so that when you push on the homelink buttons, it's still supported
on my odysessy, when the doors open, the map lights turn on.. is that what the middle pin is for?
-joe
he noticed the block of foam, and basically positioned the map light so that he can take out the block of foam.. he then split the block of foam in half, use it to prop up front and back of the hole so that when you push on the homelink buttons, it's still supported
on my odysessy, when the doors open, the map lights turn on.. is that what the middle pin is for?
-joe
Steve.
#26
When I plugged my CL unit in my Odyssey to test it, it didn't turn the lights on with the doors. Maybe the CL uses a positive trigger instead of negative?
As for the foam, I used the parts supplied with the overhead console.
As for the foam, I used the parts supplied with the overhead console.
#28
Originally Posted by spider2k
ones constant 12v, ones ground and the other will be negative switched from the door circuit to trigger the lights when you open the door. just tie it into the existing dome light.
Originally Posted by b17gsr
When I plugged my CL unit in my Odyssey to test it, it didn't turn the lights on with the doors. Maybe the CL uses a positive trigger instead of negative?
As for the foam, I used the parts supplied with the overhead console.
As for the foam, I used the parts supplied with the overhead console.
My light came only with the light, no bracket was included. Time to fabricate one.
#30
Originally Posted by sillypuddy
you actually bought a new console? they are expensive.. unless you didn't get homelink with yours?
Damn, I'll have to retest that negative trigger...
#35
I was able to get my Homelink to work with my garage door opener on the middle button. Couldn't get it to work on the first button by following the Homelink programming instructions. Once I get it installed I'll play with it some more. I have a wireless X-10 starter setup from Rat Shack that I bought about 7 years ago to play around with. Maybe I'll finally get to use it for something.
#36
Originally Posted by b17gsr
My CL map lights refuse to work with that middle negative trigger. GRRR...
#40
Originally Posted by sillypuddy
yes it works
you need to get rolling code instructions for the programming
-joe
you need to get rolling code instructions for the programming
-joe
this, effectively, sets your opener to respond to one static code. homelink devices don't have the ability to mimic a rolling code so this is the workaround. with non-rolling-code setups you wouldn't have to program your opener, it would just respond thinking your homelink IS your old remote.