So... I've read the stickies too late. I bought a PnP kit... -_- (shame on me). They look horrible! And I feel really bad for the driver in front.

I got a friend with a Mazda3 with HIDs; I fell in love with how much light it output and how straight "the line" was. I thought (hoped) that installing this PnP kit will do the same for my Fit. After it didn't, I went ahead and read all about retrofit, projectors, shrouds, cut-off, etc.

So I want to do it, I'm not car-savvy, but I do have a brother that LOVES all of it and I get pretty involved. Plus all the DIY's here and on YouTube helps. But I want to make sure Im in the right way.

To my understanding, the best (and easiest) way to do this is to buy the complete retrofit kit from theretrofitsource.com. First question, the H1 or D2S?

After I have that kit, is a matter of starting the whole oven process and opening my headlights. Second question, technically, this is just opening it up to remove the halogen housing and installing the projector and shrouds? Right?

After that lengthy process I will need to align them and re-install the headlights back into the fit. Third question, could the whole process be made in a day? Or normally it would take more?

If you have links to YouTube videos or something else than the stickies, or sugestions I will welcome them.

 

I forgot another question I had, how those this impact the daylight running lights?

 

Mini D2S and Mini H1 will both fit, however the Mini D2S has more bulb options and will fit without you having to set rotation of the projector as it is made specifically for H4 applications. If you don't paint, the whole process can be done in an hour.

DRLs will become low-beam headlights.

Installation guides can be seen here: Helpful information on upgrading headlights from The Retrofit Source Inc

I apologize for the brevity. Just had a few minutes to answer.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

Well, I'll definitely will go with the D2S.

And, the painting... Is it purely cosmetic? Or is there an advantage to do so?

 

The painting is purely cosmetic as is the shroud. I recommend a larger shroud (Apollo, Gatling, Orbit, etc.) as the Fit has large reflector bowls to fill.

Thanks!

Andrew @ TRS

 

I never understood this. So if someone goes with a bi-xenon projector, the low beams will be on with DRL? and then when they turn on the headlights the low beams are still on?
I know we can pull fuse #15 and the DRL doesn't work, which is what many Fit owners have been doing with their retrofits.

In the case of the Fit would there be a way to wire up the ccfl rings to be on with the DRL (low power anyway), instead of the projectors, so the projectors come on only when the headlights are switched on.
(I'm thinking probably not, and one would have to run a seperate switch for the ccfl rings).
Sorry for the noob questions, no matter how many threads I read I get more confused. I guess that's why I was never good with the electricity part of physics...

Thanks Andrew.
I think when the time comes I'm just going to send you guys my headlights to do the retrofit.

 

I may have spoken before my morning coffee..

If you have factory low-beam DRLs and you add a relay/HDMC harness, they become low-beam HID DRLs. When you switch the lights on, they stay the same but all of the other lights (parking, running, dash, etc.) come on.

Because the Fit has a high-beam low-voltage DRL, the solenoid on the projector may just be pulled down and the bulbs not illuminated. I honestly don't know for sure how the Fit deals with DRLs and HIDs as I disabled mine the day I bought the car.

As for the CCFL rings, it is incredibly difficult to wire them up as DRLs in 99.9% of situations, so it's easier to wire them to a custom harness and switch inside the cabin.

 

Yeah I figured that was the case.
Thank you very much for the information. It's greatly appreciated!

 

Can someone confirm this? Or check how will they look? My understanding is that the high-beam will be the one that turns on, but with low-power. I know this since I have the shitty PnP kit and it's only low HID, the high-beam is halogen. Therefore the DRL is a halogen light but low-powered.

I just wanna know what should I expect.

 

I'd say pull the fuse for them to ensure no fluttering cutoff shields or anything like that.

 

yup. i pulled the DRL fuse right after the car purchase. i don't know how my bi-xenon shields would react if i left it in. i'm not planning on putting it back in. i never, never forget to turn my lights on so i'm not a fan of DRLs in the first place.

 

Please post a DIY with pictures. Good luck and enjoy!

 

Thanks Neil patrick.

Wakali, I'll definitely will! I did a small video for something as simple as a the horn upgrade (not a full DIY though). So I will keep this thread updated.

 

There already a DIY:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...retro-diy.html

Or check out this thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...rofitting.html

 

Bragging rights dude! For the people that have done it and more encouragement for chicken people like me! Plus, I'd like to see if other people are doing anything different to ease the process. Thanks for the links.

 

the more info the better for these big projects. good luck!