I know that this topic has been beaten to death already, but... The only write-ups I've been able to locate are all for the Sport model fog lights. The Base 'accessory' fog lights are a bit different. For starters, because the fog light switch is not located on the turn signal stalk like the Sport, the wire which is usually re-routed to a keyed 12V+ is not there. There are two wires in the switch harness which receive 12V when the lights are turned on. Also, the wiring in the relay harness is differently colored, but I was able to determine which wire to route to ground.

After much tinkering with the multimeter and cutting and splicing of wires, and turning on the TPMS light and CEL (I disconnected the battery and they reset), I finally gave up. I was able to get the fogs to come on with just the marker lights or either high or low beam headlights. The problem? I wasn't able to turn them OFF. At least, not with the fog light switch. The switch harness is wired through the mirror switch, so something may be happening in there that isn't a problem with the Sport fog wiring.

Anybody have the wiring diagram for the Base model with foglights installed?

 

since I was the one who figured it out on the Sport Fit, let's see if I can help here as well.

Looking at page 13, the wiring diagram, on the online installation instructions for the base fog light kit, it says the Red/Yel wire going into the front fog light relay is "Hot with Headlight Switch in head". So this probably means this is only Hot when the headlight switch is turned to the low beam position.

And since in the Sports Fog light directions, we are also looking for a Red/Yel wire in the switch assembly harness in the steering column, I would guess this is the wire you'd need to hot wire with a switched lead that has power as soon as the ignition is on.

But on the diagram, this wire splits to both the relay and the switch, cutting at either location might disable power going through to the other location. So what I would probably do instead, is to access the red/yel wire at the 20-pin connector location by the fusebox (see step 46).

It looks like the 20-pin connector is labeled as the switch harness. So I assume this is the one that leads up to the stock switch. So this is where I would cut the red/yel wire. Look for the larger, male connector (with the pins) on the fog light kit harness, cut the red/yel wire leading out of that connector, and connect your switch power source to the side going to the rest of the harness (another words, not the end leading into the connector). This should essentially do the same thing as cutting and feeding the red/yel wire at the steering column harness on the Sport model.

In fact, Now that I know which harness is the one leading to the headlight switch from the fusebox, for the Sport guys, You might be able to do do all your wiring at the fuse box, without feeding a wire up to the steering column!! Just cut the red/yel wire at the same location, and you're already by the fuse box to tap a switched power source from another fuse!!

Please test this out and let us know if these directions work or not.

J5ive, Fitfreak.net's resident lighting freak.

P.S. - And E=Mc2, since you said you've grounded the system already. Is it still the Wht/Red wire at the relay?

 

I put it all back to stock, but will check out the wiring you're talking about in a day or ten. The red/yellow wire at the switch appears to do nothing more than turn on the light which says the fogs are on. (I disassembled the switch, too). The ground wire at the relay is a different color, but in the same position.

 

That's what I figured, that's why I was thinking this:

Since the wire splits from the main harness to the switch AND the relay. Cutting at the switch would effectively disconnect the power going to the relay, and vice versa when you cut at the relay.

When you've got some time, give me suggestion a try and let me know how it works out.

I've been sitting on a set of OEM fog kit for a while hoping to sell them. But I'm starting to seriously consider installing them. If I ever do, I'll try it out and let everyone know how to wire them to operate independently.