Amp and Subwoofer Writeup 06 honda fit!!!
#22
11-06-2006 | 12:17 AM
New Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 12
From: Il, USA
ok, it just keeps getting better. so my wife gets in the car to go to work and now the speedo doesnt work, cruise doesnt work and the power steering light is on. its probably just a fuse, but i didnt have time to check it. plus when i took off the radio bezel, the harness for the fan selector has absolutly no play and the switch popped out and now it wont stay in. nothing looks broken but i cant get the switch to stay in. this is becoming very frustrating.
#23
11-07-2006 | 01:56 PM
New Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 15
From: Moreno Valley, CA
x 1000000. I dont know what you should do about the speedo and such, but as for getting a signal to the sub, don't bother with the stereo itself. Just use inline clips to tap into the speaker cables directly without cutting anything. Like so:
People keep saying you lose quality this way, but it sounds the same as it did in my old car where it was hooked directly to the head unit's sub output.
#24
11-07-2006 | 02:09 PM
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 33
From: Miami, FL
Where did you tap into the speaker lines? I was wondering about this... Don't want to take the dash apart, either. And was considering buying an infinity basslink...
I don't trust the 'local-yocals'. I took my S-10 into a local stereo shop to have a CD changer installed (I was just being lazy) and $50 later they broke the hazard switch off the steering column... Dealer-only part, $275! P-o'd me off badly.
I don't trust the 'local-yocals'. I took my S-10 into a local stereo shop to have a CD changer installed (I was just being lazy) and $50 later they broke the hazard switch off the steering column... Dealer-only part, $275! P-o'd me off badly.
#26
11-22-2006 | 04:38 PM
Well, I ran the speaker wires from the amp in the rear to the speaker inside the door. This will give you the best power since those stock speaker wires are pretty thin. You just have to snake the wire through from the inside of the car to the door.
For the converter I just tapped the harness on the back of the headunit like everyone else.
For the converter I just tapped the harness on the back of the headunit like everyone else.
#27
12-11-2006 | 12:59 AM
For the grommet,if you have to put a tiny slice in it,and just use sikaflex to seal it.There is nothing stronger.Use sikaflex black.If you dont have that,black rtv gasket maker would do.You wouldn't even be able to tell the difference in look if you do a good job.
#29
12-14-2006 | 05:24 AM
Someone that Posts too much
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 683
From: Sydney, Australia
Often caused by insufficient earthing particularly at the amp. Are you using RCAs to connect the amp or speaker wires? Noise filters are not a solution they are like bogging up panel damage instead of beating it out. If its 1500W RMS not if lightning strikes the marketing department what gauge cable are you using? Doc Brown: 1.21 GIGAWATTS!?! 1.21 gigawatts! Great Scott!!!
Last edited by vividjazz; 12-14-2006 at 05:28 AM.
#30
01-11-2007 | 12:12 PM
Frequent FitFreak Poster
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 619
From: Houston
i'll be writing up another DIY with full pics and descriptions/locations of everything. Just waiting for the amp to come in 
There's easier ways to tap signal wires than off the headunit. plus, the headunit area and dash has a lot of interference that can distort signals in RCA wires, leading to static and whine.
There's easier ways to tap signal wires than off the headunit. plus, the headunit area and dash has a lot of interference that can distort signals in RCA wires, leading to static and whine.
#33
01-14-2007 | 02:50 PM
Thread Starter
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New Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 19
From: yonkers
if you follow the instructions as posted there will be no problems with your installation.........if it works for me it should work for you, remember these are the same cars same wires etc......the writeup is partly from honda and the rest is from what i did to complete it!!!!!
