The ground i have is wrapped around the t fitting where the sending unit connects to. Maybe if i put it on the sending unit directly it would make a difference. I am just going by what cyberdyne said being that i have no knowlegde whatsoever regarding electrical how-to's. Once i get the new sending unit with it's own ground wire i will try it the way they said and hopefully that will work.

 

well, u're supposed to ground the sender's body itself. not the T. if u're doing it from the T, u're already losing conductance b/c i'm assuming you used some thread sealer on the NPT threads. You could wire the ground anywhere, but its just easier to ground it to the body of the car instead of routing the ground all the way back into the cabin.

i'll post up a minischematic. MSPaint time! (lol, bored at work)

 

this is just a simpler method to cyberdyne's.

 

yes but aren't you losing ground because you used thread tape to wrap the ground wire around the sender? I only used thread tape were the compression fittings for the hoses are. no thread tape on the sending unit.

 

i wrapped the wire on the sender's thread BEFORE thread tape. twisted the wire around the sender's threads, sealant then screwed it on, craming the wire in between the threads of the T and sender the same time.

i'm not sure how you sender looks like vs. autometer's but mine needed thread tape. it leaked when i assumed i didnt need it.

 

they are shipping my sending unit out today so i won't have to worry about it. can't wait to get it all installed. I also got a smaller t fitting from Lowe's so the sending unit will sit farther inside the t-fitting thus exposing it to more fluid. Hopefully i will be able to install it this weekend along with rewiring my fogs to be independent.

i'll post some pics when done.

Thanks for the advice.

 

cool, as long as that T is no smaller than 3/8" diameter.

keep us updated!

 

1 got a 1/4NPT t fitting, 3/8 hose barbs to 1/4NPT connectors for either side, 1/4NPT to 1/8NPT connector for the top. The sender is 1/8NPT. I think this will work fine. It will keep the size small for the tight space inside but keep the flow good with the 3/8 hose barbs.

 

yup! thats the same one i have! Home depot/Lowes ftw.

 

I completely agree---- added cooler=voided warranty? Nonsense.

 

it doesnt void the warranty unless Honda can proved that it caused a problem.

 

what is the specific law that requires honda or any dealer to PROVE that the aftermarket mod caused the malfunction??? I will need to reference it next week when i bring my Fit in for service.

 

i doubt they'll give you any trouble with it. It all depends on the dealer. Some dealers are mod-friendly and some arent. you just have to find the right one in your city. (you do not have to stick with one dealer for service/warranty repair)

Our local Honda dealership is REALLY mod friendly. i've had friends who mod the shit out of their Si's and in one case, the mod DID cause a problem. but dealer didnt sweat it. Customer service was their goal and #1 reason why their sales beat everyone.

Also, an Acura dealer here is also extremely mod friendly. i was surprised at what their reaction to my RSX. my dealer was cool with the turbo. heck, they even inspected the setup to make sure everything is a-ok and clear of fuel lines. my primary o2 sensor went out (common for boosted cars) and they replaced it for free under warranty. (usually costs $200+ for replacement)
My friend has a 2nd gear grind and clutch was worn, REPLACED FREE! Oh btw, one of the best things was i went in and complain that my leather seats were wearing out prematurely, THEY REPLACED IT!!! ($1400 right there!)

i ended up buying the extended warranty b/c it paid for itself already.

The law you're talking about is the MAGNUSON-MOSS WARRANTY IMPROVEMENT ACT, which requires the dealer or Manufacturer to prove the aftermarket part you are using actually caused a failure or problem with the vehicle. So if your dealer gives you a hard time let him know you are aware of your rights and they should back down quickly.

The key is owners must be aware these situations can arise and this is clearly stated in the back of the owner’s manual that non-OEM products void the manufacturer warrantee. This, not surprisingly, includes performance parts designed by car manufacturers (i.e. Ford Motorsports, TRD, Mazda Competition and GM Performance to name a few).

If they dont ask, dont tell. you dont need to volunteer information.

 

i made an appt today for the fit. I noticed vibrations coming from the brakes (which haven't been modified). the guy says to me "you made your car faster and didn't change the brakes so they won't be covered". Bullshit right? I haven't
turbo'd it or track'd it. car has 15K. they have been pretty good with service so far but i might have to find someone else if they give me crap next week when i take it in.

 

rotors are warped. i had the same issue at 14k. it seems like a similar on most Honda/Acuras for some reason.

they should or are going to resurface the rotor and put new pads in. They should know that brakes do not just wear out in 15k miles.

 

I have it and my car is 60K but KM. The dealer told me that I need to change it soon. I might just resurface it and use it for a while and buy later aftermarket one.

 

Yesterday I have lowered my cooler all the way down, so now i have airflow to it and fan sucking the hot air. It was a big work

 

i'm not quite sure on what you're saying. Teflon tape is just to seal and prevent oil leakage. It has no purpose for the grounding like you said. Teflon tape doesnt conduct, i know that. when you try to ground the probe, you ground the body of the sender, not the T.

 

still waiting for my damn sending unit. tried to wire up the dimmer on the gauge but no luck. anyone know what i can connect it to. i need a 12v only when the headlights are on and no power at any other time. Either that or i will cover the gauge with tint. it's a blue led and it is so f'n bright at night it's burning my retina.

Peace.

 

lol, i thought you said that i orignally said that "tape conducts ground", which is why i reiterated it.

in this case, is obvious that the gauge is not reading accurately. so he's trying to eliminate every variable possible to figure out why. ground at the sender itself eliminates the questioning of the grounding "T vs. sender". although, yes, it shouldnt make a difference, but just do it for clarity.