Where is this information? My owners manual describes the powertrain warranty as 5yr./60K.

 

you beat me to it! The 2007 Honda Warranty manual for the Fit states a 5/60 for powertrain. It does not mention an auto vs. manual tranny anywhere in the manual that i saw.

 

Are we ever going to see any actual installed inside a Fit pictures?

 

sorry. i have the part as of monday but by the time i get home im tired already, ive been working on other peoples cars all day and the dogs have likely ruined something else. havent got around to it yet. ill get it done and post up when i have the time.

 

Updates? Anything?

 

sorry time is not on my side. i also was waiting to get my coilovers and only have to put it up on the rack once for both installs

 

oh.. here's mine:


just the old tube n fin thing.

 

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-diy-repair-maintenance/10359-t-trans-fluid-b-m-supercooler-temp-guage.html

 

there is no real purpose of having a ATF cooler on a basic AT car. the last thing you would want is the ATF to go below its warmed up threshold. (which wont likely happen anyways)

if you're concerned about heat issues, you're better off switching to Amsoil synthetic ATF. (only kind that can replace Honda ATF)

 

And if there is no Amsoil oil, what you do then.

 

The tranny cooler i have will not allow fluid to be curculated until the temp is above normal operating range. I have had no issues with it on so far in the winter months. In the summer when it is 100 degrees out i would thing a cooler would be beneficial in keeping the temp lower. I have modded my car significantly and eventually i will put in an SC. If you drive hard like i do i think a cooler would be beneficial.

 

03dsm-rsx does has a point in his first statement...though I disagree about the second part. It is well known that lubricants are usually engineered for optimum performance at certain operating temp ranges. Further, it has also been established that parts wear, like cylinder bore, increases dramatically in an engine when running cold, which is why most folks say to never operate w/o a thermostat.

Not sure if this carries directly over to transmissions, but I believe it should in principle. The operation of the torque convertor is one of the root causes for the creation of heat within an AT, especially when the convertor slips (accel). When you start throwing more torque through the convertor (turbo or s/c) the fluid's ability to transfer and carry away heat decreases (since fluid volume & cooling system capacity remains unchanged), and that is why installing an additional larger cooler is recommended. You are increasing fluid volume slightly, and more importantly, increasing surface area to remove heat.

Installing a thermostat or temp regulator would be the best solution for areas with really cold winters and really hot summers.

 

i'm basing my statements off first hand experience with my RSX automatic. i'm boosted, was on stock auto transmission with Amsoil ATF. work just fine except the way the torque convertor was made from the factory did not allow the gears to switch fast enough, therefore hurting my 1/4mi times and adding excessive heat to the transmission from it slipping during the shifts at WOT.

so wat did i do? i bought a spare auto tranny for cheap, ripped it out and apart. with the help of IPT, we put together a full race automatic transmission with a built high-stall torque convertor. (basically used nothing but stronger internal clutch packs and bearings, modified the valve body to channel the ATF differently, therefore shifting is firmer and faster). the result was awesome track and daily drive experience and great holding power.

so who wants to flame me?

 

order it. search for dealers.

again, if you're on n/a mods, most likely you're not putting out enough torque and generating excessive heat (the TC's weaknesses) and/or tow a lot, you're perfectly fine with Honda ATF and no ATF cooler.

 

define "significantly". if its not boosted, it will not produce the torque needed to harm the TC.

you mean you have a thermal bypass valve on it? if so, great choice.

its no harm in putting in the tranny cooler. u get more ATF capacity which in turn cools better also. but its unneccesary if u're not boosted, dont hit the track/road race, towing, or anything that creates a huge load.

 

yes, a thermal bypass valve is recommended, but its rare that you'll find one for the use of ATF. oil thermal valves are HUGE, you may lose fluid pressure with it. (also, this is why you do NOT want too big of a cooler)

so my solution is that do NOT bypass the stock ATF cooler in the radiator. the radiator fluid will help warm up the ATF to operating temps, and the cooler will keep the temps down after its already warmed up.

the best kind of trans cooler i'd recommend is the Long's Tru-Cool LPD brand. it has a built in bypass channel for when the fluid is cold, it does not go thru the cooler much. plus, the design of it beats ANY tube-fin design coolers. tube-fin coolers are not very efficient as brazed aluminum.

here's exactly wat they say:
When automatic transmission fluid is cold it is viscous. Long's LPD (Low Pressure Drop) design allows thicker cold transmission fluid to flow through two open chambers which, in effect, bypass the cooler until the transmission reaches normal operating temperature. This self regulating design eliminates the possibility of over cooling and poor cooler flow on cold start up.

here's a MSPaint schematic of how the oil cooler is tapped AFTER it has passed thru the radiator.

 

As for Amsoil ATF use in Honda trannies, its been proven to work just fine in our nit-picky automatics time and time again.

Comptech supercharged TL's have been told to use Redline ATF. but comes to find that their trannies started to slip real bad and needed LubeGuard additive to correct this. but many switched over to Amsoil ATF and reported just perfect functionality. I have also used it and saw no difference to Honda/Acura ATF. if anything it shifted firmer a bit.

but again, if u're not in the "extremes" of modding, Honda ATF is more than enough.

 

The cooler bypass is controlled by temp. The higher the temp the more fluid circulates through the stacked plates. when it is cold it is routed through the bypass.

I installed a temp gauge on the return line going into the tranny but this weekend i will reroute it to the line going from the tranny to get a more accurate temp.

I am not boosted yet but have done I/H/E and pulley. I drive hard often at high rpm's. You make a good point about the A/T tranny. I wonder if the fit will have the same problem you had when boosted. That is why i am waiting until someone comes out with a tranny rebuild kit.

Edit: I have a B&M tranny cooler with LPD.

 

B&M is good stuff too. forgot about them. but they also carry tube-fin designs.

as for the boosted part, i'm turbo'd, so creates a lot more pressure (and torque) than a supercharger and more than the stock MAP sensor can read. not sure if the Fit is MAP or MAF based. but i'm sure whoever is creating the s/c for the auto Fit will provide a reflash or piggyback unit to modify the shift points and sensor readings to make shifts smooth as factory. this is how the TRD supercharged automatic scion tC's are done. also, Comptech s/c'd auto TL's have not had any problems.

generally, the turbo creates a lot more torque at a quick burst in lower RPMs (where the torque convertor is more actively engaged as opposed to higher rpms), which in turn generates massive heat and inducing slippage. s/c power is more linear and gradual, so its not as a heavy load as a turbocharged car.

plus, my slippage issues were resolved after switching to Amsoil when i was on the stock trans. the only time it slipped a bit was after some excessive WOT runs.

 

There is nothing wrong w/ the tube/fin designs, they are just not as efficient...but they still work and are a good economical solution for those who want to slightly increase cooling capacity.

The Fit is MAP based if I'm not mistaken.

And are you considering roots-type superchargers in your statements on turbo vs supercharge torque? My understanding is that a roots-type supercharger can produce great low end torque.