oh shut it.

you know you will get damn near zero resistance while using a 28 gauge wire for a ground right? UNDER LOAD, that bitch will burn up.

same with stock alternator wire. a larger gauge allows voltage changes even faster, as long as the wiring is not MASSIVELY larger.



I see real world results with my wiring.

Maybe the large difference in dimming is completely hallucinated!!


Go to sleep, joker

 

You must be forgetting all the real math done to prove you don't know what you are talking about. I will repost it here for a reminder to you.

BUT you are forgetting the main point the ELD is still there and working and will cause the same problem even it you use 00gauge wire.

 

Found it for you since you have forgotten. Post number 10

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...ower-wire.html


Found one of many sites for calculating and for ONE THOUSAND FEET of 16 gauge wire the voltage drop is a MINISCULE 0.3675 volts. If you increase the wire size to 10 gauge the drop is 0.09150 over one thousand feet.

Do the math for maybe 3 feet of wire the difference is 0.276 at 1000 feet or a whopping difference of 0.000828 volts in 3 feet.

Note the three zeros after the decimal point still think changing it makes a determinable difference?

And the resistance change is even more laughable for 1000 feet and 16 gauge copper wire it is a HUGE 0.01225 ohms or for three feet 0.00003675 (note the FOUR zeros)

And for 10 gauge 0.00305 at 1000ft. For 3 feet is is 0.00000915

For a reduction of 0.0000276 ohms going from 3 feet of 16 gauge wire to 3 feet of 10 gauge wire.

Still thinking it will make a bit of difference??? Note the 4 zeros after the decimal point.

Do it yourself here Wire Resistance and Voltage Drop Calculator

 

And why not take my advice and visit an electronic shop on base and ask the people the "G" has spent a lot of money training to know what they are talking about on this subject funny enough the same training as I was given.

Then hook up an oscilloscope to your "modified" Fit and get another stock fit owner to come along and run the wave form on both and I will bet you a substantial amount of green that this "faster voltage change" you think you have is even less substantial than the change in voltage or resistance.

In other words so small is is almost unmeasurable by any known to man instrument for measuring electricity. In other words NO DIFFERENCE that would change anything in the electrical response of the alternator on a Fit.

Off the sleep now over to you. And please use FACTS in any reply not anecdotal things you alone observe. Some math proving your point would be nice.

But the bottom line is still the same. Unless and until you remove the ELD from that circuit IT REMAINS THE CONTROLLER FOR CHANGES TO ALTERNATOR OUTPUT And any change in wire size or length means nothing to it all it does is observe current flow and does it's job on that and that alone.

 

My following statement will relate to wire resistance to attempt to explain it to you, as some of you have a completely wrong idea, not hate intended here. I'm a red seal Journeyman Electrician.


The resistance of a conductor is determined by three things
1)Cross-sectional area
2)Length
3)Temperature


Essentially, cross-sectional area is the size of conductor. (14AWG being smaller then #6AWG). If you think about the size of conductor as though it were exhaust. A larger exhaust is less restrictive then stock exhaust. Thus the #6 wire will have less resistance then the #14. As others have stated length plays a massive part in this, although the distances being run in your vehicle will never play a part in this.

Temperature has a marginal affect but is required to calculate precise resistance of a conductor. Essentially as a wire heats up protons start to vibrate and make it more difficult for electrons to flow.



From experience I have personally measured close to a 4V drop on #16 in under 1500' on some fire alarm systems.

The calculation would end up coming out like so:
R=pl/A
R being the total resistance of the conductor
p being the resistivity of material (ohms)
l being length of conductor (meters)
A being cross-sectional area of conductor (m2)


My theory teacher in first year used to say
You double the length you double the resistance. You double the size you half the resistance.


Best case scenario is a fat, short, cold wire


Guy

 

I installed some hid's with ac ballasts and the dimming completely stopped.

 

A capacitor is not going to do diddly squat for the lights dimming. It's of some use in audio installations because amplifiers draw current in little bursts (lots of current for a kick drum hit, say, and then not much until the next beat). The capacitor serves to even out these transient loads, reducing the AC impedance of the electrical system.

Headlights, unlike amplifiers, are basically steady DC draws, so the capacitor won't help. A larger battery (or one with a lower internal resistance) and heavier wires may help some, though to some extent the dimming is just the system working as it's designed to work. I don't think an aftermarket voltage stabilizer would do much if anything, although it is certainly possible in at least a theoretical sense to construct a circuit that would keep the lights at a steady brightness. Doing so would involve modifying the headlight circuit with some sort of a regulated supply, perhaps most practically a switching DC-DC converter. Anything regulator that just bolts across the battery or something along those lines almost certainly won't help.

(Also, a 1000 watt amplifier is not consuming a steady 1000 watts—that's its theoretical maximum output, and with the logarithmic manner in which we perceive sound levels, the majority of time it's consuming far less than its maximum output. If it consumed 1000 watts steadily, it would be largely like having a 1000 watt heater going in the car, as loudspeakers are typically maybe 1-2% efficient at converting electrical energy into acoustical energy, and the rest is dissipated as heat. Many car audio amplifiers have their power output woefully overrated, too, particularly the less expensive ones.)

I doubt the lack of torque is related to any electrical system problems. A voltage sag won't cause a significant loss of engine power so long as it doesn't go so low that the ECU and so forth fail to work. Maybe the A/C is on? Or maybe it's time to do some engine maintenance like valve adjustments?

 

There are a whole lot of solutions for the same problem. I just bought a 2011 Fit Sport and have noticed it since I've had it, mainly from the dim when the fan kicks in. Has anyone down any of these tricks and it actually work?