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efr turbo fit build

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  #1  
Old 01-25-2012 | 02:58 AM
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efr turbo fit build

most know my 2007 honda fit sport, has a k24a2 swap


now its time to add some more parts




engine:
k24a2 stock
type s 6 speed trans
bw efr 7064 turbo
fic 1000 inj
walboro 255 pump
rrc manifold
karcepts fuel rail
hondata 4 bar map sensor

interior:
dgauge
hybrid racing shifter box


to do list:
ecp manifold and exhaust
mishimoto intercooler and piping
oil and water lines
tail wastegate
mishimoto radiator
treadstone turbine housing
5speed trans with lsd, 4.3 and tsx 6th
return fuel setup


will update as progress is made with pics and info, shooting for 400-450 hp daily
 
  #2  
Old 01-25-2012 | 09:15 AM
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badass! looking forward to seeing the progress
 
  #3  
Old 01-25-2012 | 10:42 AM
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Nice! Weren't you trying to sell this at one point? Glad to see you stuck with it!
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 12:14 PM
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Glad you got the large 1.05A/R divided T4 footprint hotside. Should still generate plenty of power under the curve, and you'll make more whp/psi on pump than with those piddly T3 turbines.

Those EFR FMW wheels seem to favor the bigger housings with the new aero on the Gamma-Ti turbine wheels. At least with the larger members of the EFR family.

Use a big -12AN drain, and -4AN feed with an inline filter, a restrictor and leave yourself an 1/8NPT port for a remote pressure sending unit or gauge post restrictor/before the CHRA. BWs, like Holset, are picky about their oil pressure ranges.

Why did you go with only 52mm compressor? It would've been easier to make 450fwhp on pump with a bigger compressor, unless you plan on revving to 9k. Hope you have 93oct or E85 handy! ;D

You're going to need to push atleast 47-48lbs/min, unless you can get away with timing in the upper teens! These wheels, very much like the last generation S-series BWs were designed for higher PRs to cram that air through engines that rely on boost because they have small port heads or low redline diesels and need to cram as much air mass as possible in because they can't rely on flow volume.

Keep us posted.
 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 01-25-2012 at 12:18 PM.
  #5  
Old 01-25-2012 | 12:23 PM
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K-swap and now turbo. Wow! Great car you have there! Looking forward to your progress as well.
 
  #6  
Old 01-25-2012 | 01:33 PM
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here are specs on turbo
Borg Warner 7064 EFR Turbo- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

i have two friends in fl, one has 6758 making 419hp @13.7psi on stock k20z3, and another with 7670 making 510hp @ 12.5psi on k20z3 with stage one cams. this was reason i went with a 7064, i dont plan on just keeping one setup, will be trying a 7670 later on, and different cams setups.
 
  #7  
Old 01-25-2012 | 01:55 PM
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Wow! That is going to be fun to drive
 
  #8  
Old 01-25-2012 | 01:57 PM
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^fun to drive if he ever gets traction, lol
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 02:45 PM
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Why would you buy an EFR turbo and run less than 1 bar boost? They don't even really wake up till you are north of 25psi. Especially in the big turbine housing.

 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 01-25-2012 at 02:51 PM.
  #10  
Old 01-25-2012 | 02:58 PM
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because i will be replacing the turbine housing with a .82 prototype in month
 
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Old 01-25-2012 | 03:05 PM
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So your going to go smaller.. Why? Is it still a T4 divided?

I mean its your build but why handicap yourself?

You claimed in another thread that we would "shit bricks" with what you learned, but it doesn't seem you've fully grasped the subject matter. Save that money for other things and keep the 1.05 housing. You said you wanted to get this car in the 11s? You will want that big housing for top end pull on the back half of the 1320.
 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 01-25-2012 at 03:21 PM.
  #12  
Old 01-25-2012 | 04:09 PM
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>>>>> <<<<<
 
  #13  
Old 01-25-2012 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DiamondStarMonsters
You will want that big housing for top end pull on the back half of the 1320.
If I was going to be crazy enough (and I'm usually crazy) to build a front drive car and plan on drag racing, the top end is all I'd focus on.
 
  #14  
Old 01-26-2012 | 02:41 AM
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I wouldn't lie to you guys.

Getting a 2500lb car into the 11s isn't exactly brain surgery.

Don't over think it.

You spent all that time, effort and money on getting the K in there, might as well take advantage of it. Atleast 2 bar boost on a good sized compressor and make it worthwhile with 9-10k redline.

Precedent has already been set for getting it to the ground as well. ;D
 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 01-26-2012 at 03:11 AM.
  #15  
Old 01-26-2012 | 09:05 AM
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ive done multiple k swaps, 5 for myself alone and help others on theirs, this is where my hands on experience comes in, a stock k24 has a redline of 7600, a k20 is 9000, and k24 makes more torque than k20, most turbos like garret, presion, and holseit come on like a light switch on/off hard, which does feel good but causes more traction problems with k24, so you want the power to be more leanier, that why most with k24 go supercharged. lets say i stick with the 1.05 ar and dont spool till 5500 at the earliest, your only left with 2100 pull. now lets say i drop to .82, and spool at 3500, with having the gamia-ti turbine wheel the power will be more leanier, i wont have that on/off swith problem, have better midrange, and flatter/balanced out top end pull, of course gearing, tires, suspsion come into play as well. I have seen stock z6 single cam making 280hp beat a 600hp b series simple because of how the power is made and put to the ground. were as most would be happy to have a 600+hp spinning monster with awesome dyno peak numbers, basically a weekend trailor queen, iam doing a balanced out daily car that will still perform well.......but back to the build.....here is the dgauge which i get friday and be installing this weekend, imho is better than running multiple gauges, wires, and just plain cleaner

Brockway Engineering Digital Gauges

 
  #16  
Old 01-26-2012 | 10:20 AM
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Nice gauge! The other plus of a multi gauge is that the Fit doesn't have a ton of room for gauges. The A-pillar is already hard enough to see around and doesn't need a row of gauges further interfering with visibility.
 
  #17  
Old 01-26-2012 | 11:45 AM
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First off, even with the R/S and B/S of the 2.4 there is no reason you cannot run out to 9k. I've seen worse run higher with success. Like a 2.35L 100mm stroke with an R/S in the low 1.5:1 range running to 9250rpm for multiple seasons.

So that said, why with a 9k redline, and a turbo that you are guessing lights @ 5.5k in 3rd would you only have 2.1k powerband? This is a divided T4 with an Intermetal/Ceramic low inertia turbine.

High comp motor for off-boost response, boost-by-gear, solid subframe/chassis/motor bushings, LSD and sticky rubber with a good driver and there should really be no problems. If a comparable mass/geared 280whp car is beating a 600whp rival, that is 90% the drivers fault.

And if a 1.05 divided housing with a mere 64mm inducer spools later on a 2.4 than my 1.13A/R (16cm2) HX52 with a 70mm exducer (a heavy ass Inconel wheel with a fat turbine shaft, no less) on a 2.0 you are doing something wrong.
 

Last edited by DiamondStarMonsters; 01-26-2012 at 11:48 AM.
  #18  
Old 01-26-2012 | 10:53 PM
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got a new toy in mail today, this thing is awesome, diff recommend this to anyone that wants a clean gauge setup without the wiring nightmare, will be installing this weekend with pics and video
 
  #19  
Old 01-27-2012 | 10:11 PM
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just installed dgauge today and by far this part is top notch! if anyone wants info on where to buy one shoot me pm
 
  #20  
Old 01-31-2012 | 11:54 AM
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traded my type s trans yesterday for base rsx 5 speed, thanks JMURACN
now just gotta order tsx 6th and lsd, install, and have more boost friendly setup

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