Apparently L15A1 crate motors are relatively popular now:

Formula L15A7s as well.. I wonder how well any GE turbo kits are going to spool because of that goofy integrated manifold as you can see here the singular header tube coming off that 4 bolt rectangular exhaust port:

 

To answer your question probably not, It would have been done already. I guess you have to wait until someone fabricates one. Until someone builds and patents a design it gonna be slim pickings on what you can do. The emission laws are strict and most parts are not legal. It ashame because Honda always had a after market and the new laws are killing that.

 

Good News!

Apparently there is a company out of Indiana called Neukin that actually makes L15A1 and L15A7 turbo manifolds/adapters!

Neukin AX Honda Fit L15A1 Turbo Manifold

Neukin AX Honda Fit L15A7 Turbo Manifold

They state they make them in Open T3 or T25 5 bolt flanges. Allegedly they will make them with MHI 14B/16G flanges as well!

There is a member here, K-alt, who apparently already has one with a 16G mounted to it!

In scouring the threads I found this quote of his:



Randull at Bisimoto never got back to me unfortunately, so I will be giving these guys a call. k-alt mentioned he go his for $280, and that would be a fair price for what looks like a nice shorty manifold!

 

Emissions laws regarding the fuel cell construction? Sorry, what are you referring to?

 

PistonHeads Headlines It already happening. You cant legally modify your car for the road. The laws are changing and by 2012 it will be impossible unless things change. I am not saying not to modify your car but eventually it will be for off road only. I miss the good old days and dont support the new laws regarding Hot Rodding they are trying to push.

 

Can They Outlaw Hot Rodding? - Hot Rod Magazine Blog
Can They Outlaw Hot Rodding? - Hot Rod Magazine

 

That articles is discussing the UK v. Euro5 regulations, that will never fly here... besides the industry for stock appearing modifications is booming thanks to the several million in captive audience thanks to California's CARB supporters.

Stock appearing for when the cops pop the hood, not that they often know any better... and as long as you pass emissions it doesn't matter what you've done to the car in many places. There are also all sorts of exemptions city to city and county to county. One of the tricks in Illinois for people who want to modify an OBD2 car like the Fit is to get it registered in Kankakee. Hell you can import an Evo 2 from Canada and if you are persistent and generous enough it too can be DOT legal, but because it is pre-1996 you don't have to worry about emissions.

I wouldn't worry about what they are doing across the pond just yet, especially the Brits. Though I have had quite a good time in London for the 11 days I spent in England, I don't know if I could live there.

Their newspapers, the Sun and the Daily Mail, which are News Corp owned like "Fair and Balanced" Faux News in the US, have been pushing ridiculous fear stories on "boy racers" street racing and breaking into hospitals to steal Nitrous bottles in the attempt to push such legislation.

But the Brits have plenty of "petrol heads" too, look at Ariel and Caterham for instance, so you can rest assured modding is not going extinct nor will legislation get rid of it either.

Prohibition, be it alcohol, marijuana, guns or car parts just never works in the end. All it will do is create a black market and a niche industry for stock appearing mods. As tuning becomes more focused on end user tunable hardware, passing emissions and tricking CEL/DTCs only gets easier.

The future will still be fun!

Remember just 10-15 years ago, a good 5v Denso or Bosch lab-grade "wideband" Nernst cell oxygen (lambda) sensor could cost $10k. Now you can buy one with a UEGO Gauge and Controller from AEM, Innovate or Zeitronix for less than $250.

 

So with all the discussions on oil changes, effects on economy etc. I decided this would be a good time to post this fantastically technical article from the Ferrari Owners forums, authored by Dr. Ali E Haas:

FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas, PhD (AEHaas)

and here are some reference tables for various oils and their specific properties:

Oil Data Sheets

 

Here is a list of brake/pad myths debunked by Carroll Smith of StopTech:

SupraMania - The

Both Mr Smith's and Dr. Haas's articles are well worth the time for any performance enthusiast.

 

Found these the other day as well, L15A1 Service Specs:

Block specs:
-Bore Diameter:
--- New: 73.00-73.02 mm (2.8740-2.8748 in.)
--- Service Limit: 73.07 mm (2.8767 in.)
-Warpage of deck:
--- New - 0.07 mm (0.003 in.) max.
--- Service limit - 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)

Compression Specs:
-Pressure
--- Minimum - 980 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm2, 142 psi)
--- Maximum variation - 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)

Connecting Rod specs:
-Small-end bore diameter = 17.964-17.977 mm (0.707-0.708 in.)
-Large-end bore diameter = 43.0 mm (1.69 in.)

Crankshaft bearing Specifications:

Crankshaft Specifications:
-Main journal diameter = 49.976-50.000 mm (1.9676-1.9685 in.)
-Rod journal diameter = 39.976-40.000 mm (1.5739-1.5748 in.)
-Rod/main journal taper:
--- New - 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.)
--- Service Limit - 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
-Rod/main journal out-of-round:
--- New - 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.)
--- Service Limit - 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
-End play:
--- New - 0.10-0.35 mm (0.004-0.014 in.)
--- Service Limit - 0.45 mm (0.018 in.)
-Runout:
--- New - 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.) max.
--- Service Limit - 0.04 mm (0.0016 in.)

Ignition timing Specifications
-At idle Check the red mark = M/T and A/T - 8* (-/+2*) BTDC

Piston pin Specifications
-O.D. = 17.996-18.000 mm (0.7085-0.7087 in.)
-Pin-to-piston clearance = 0.010-0.018 mm (0.0004-0.0007 in.)

Piston ring Specifications
-Ring-to-groove clearance:
--- Top:
----- New - 0.065-0.090 mm (0.0026-0.0035 in.)
----- Service Limit - 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
--- Second:
----- New - 0.030-0.055 mm (0.0012-0.0022 in.)
----- Service Limit - 0.13 mm (0.005 in.)
-Ring end gap:
--- Top:
----- New - 0.15-0.30 mm (0.006-0.012 in.)
----- Service Limit - 0.60 mm (0.024 in.)
--- Second:
----- New - 0.35-0.50 mm (0.014-0.020 in.)
----- Service Limit - 0.65 mm (0.026 in.)
--- Oil:
----- New - 0.20-0.70 mm (0.008-0.028 in.)
----- Service Limit - 0.80 mm (0.031 in.)

Piston Specifications
-Skirt O.D. @ 16mm(0.6 in.) from bottom of skirt:
----- New - 72.98-72.99 mm (2.8732-2.8736 in.)
----- Service Limit - 72.97 mm (2.8728 in.)
-Clearance in cylinder:
----- New - 0.010-0.040 mm (0.0004-0.0016 in.)
----- Service Limit - 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
-Ring groove width:
--- Top:
----- New - 1.050-1.060 mm (0.0413-0.0417 in.)
----- Service Limit - 1.08 mm (0.043 in.)
--- Second:
----- New - 1.220-1.230 mm (0.0481-0.0484 in.)
----- Service Limit - 1.250 mm (0.0492 in)
--- Oil:
----- New - 2.005-2.020 mm (0.0789-0.0795 in.)
----- Service Limit - 2.050 mm (0.0807 in.)

Spark plug Specifications
-Type = NGK: IZFR6K13 / DENSO: SKJ20DR-M13
-Gap = 1.2-1.3 mm (0.042-0.051 in.)

Valve guide Specifications
-I.D.:
--- Intake/Exhaust:
----- New - 5.51-5.53 mm (0.217-0.218 in.)
----- Service Limit - 5.55 mm (0.219 in.)
-Installed Height:
--- Intake/Exhaust: 15.85-16.35 mm (0.624-0.644 in.)

Valve seat Specifications
-Width:
--- Intake:
----- New - 0.850-1.150 mm (0.0335-0.0453 in.)
----- Service Limit - 1.60 mm (0.063 in.)
--- Exhaust:
----- New - 1.250-1.550 mm (0.0492-0.0610 in.)
----- Service Limit - 2.00 mm (0.079 in.)
-Stem installed height:
--- Intake:
----- New - 46.1-46.5 mm (1.815-1.831 in.)
----- Service Limit - 46.8 mm (1.843 in.)
--- Exhaust:
----- New - 46.2-46.6 mm (1.819-1.835 in.)
----- Service Limit - 46.9 mm (1.846 in.)

Valve Specifications
-Clearance (cold):
--- Intake:
----- New - 0.17±0.02 mm (0.007±0.0008 in.)
--- Exhaust:
----- New -0.28±0.02 mm (0.011±0.0008 in.)
-Stem O.D.:
--- Intake:
----- New - 5.48-5.49 mm (0.2157-0.2161 in.)
----- Service Limit - 5.45 mm (0.215 in.)
--- Exhaust:
----- New - 5.45-5.46 mm (0.2146-0.2150 in.)
----- Service Limit - 5.42 mm (0.213 in.)
-Stem-to-guide clearance:
--- Intake:
----- New - 0.020-0.050 mm (0.0008-0.0020 in.)
----- Service Limit - 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
--- Exhaust:
----- New - 0.050-0.080 mm (0.0020-0.0031 in.)
----- Service Limit - 0.11 mm (0.004 in.)

Valve spring Specifications
-Free Length:
--- Intake: 50.52 mm (1.989 in.)
--- Exhaust: 57.37 mm (2.259 in.)

 

I was thumbing through an issue of Hot Rod Magazine and an article on the Snow Methanol/Water Injection systems.. Further into the Mag was a blurb that NOS and Snow have collaborated on the ultimate addition to supercharger system cooling combustion chamber cooling and octane delivery..... Boost used to be the Holy Grail for increasing power and now there are new advancement that allow more boost to be made and used safely on the street..... It seems like there's more coming or that have been around for decades that are being improved by use of modern technology ... Some of the stuff was used by the Luftwaffe about mid way through WWII when American Oil, Ethyl Corporation and other U.S. suppliers to Hitlers war machine were restricted from doing business with them so openly.

 

Exactly same thing with propane injection for diesels!

Another system that is seeing a small revival is pre-compressor injection, or "wet compression" like the WW2 engineers called it!

Brings down IATs through out the whole process but builds boost faster because the atomized molecules squeeze the air yet further, but there is pressure drop after it leaves the exducer, and again if there is an intercooler (technically after cooler for most of us)

Some people running full alcohol or E70/E85/E98 like Steven Johnson and Mike Reichen in the Land Speed Racing events I am getting into, can use a big single or two compounded turbos without an intercooler by spraying methanol into the hot pipe between the primary and secondary turbos, and then again spraying in the manifold or upper charge piping to yet further reduce IATs and increase charge density.

Or combining a water-air charge cooler post turbo with a single alky nozzle by the throttle body.

Water-Alcohol injection kits (112-114 octane) and/or blending toluene or xylene (both 118) with premium pump gas allow you to run tunes comparable to C16/Q16 race gas on the street and still run a catalytic converter to pass emissions. We have come so far it seems, but then we have big throw backs.

Toluene for instance was the famed 1980s Formula racing "Rocket Fuel" in >80% concentrations.

Teams then were running 80psi through restricted turbos on 1.5L engines and making 1200whp!

Now we have people running >1000awhp @ 50psi+ in 4 cyl. street cars, not many though haha

 

Just a nice diagram I found earlier:



While trying to find a few places to have some parts machined I came across these guys in Louisiana:

Cantrifugal Air Compressors

They actually do repairs to cast items using materials analysis.

Even damage this extreme apparently:



There is a 50ft crack in this compressor cover





This is an example of how they repair these things, in addition to welding the cover closed they add these reinforcements which you can see painted in red:







Here they use lateral plugs of metal to fix turbine housing cracks on the drive side of these very large turbos:

 

As a kind of follow up/review of my earlier post on compressor selection and efficiency here are a couple links from NASA and a picture of a NASA conceived centrifugal compressor wheel for some kind of pump or gas compressor:



Modelling flow over a computational grid, the wedge diffusers above are shown in this first shot:



This model was done by NASAs Glenn Research Center
Compressor Branch Design and Analysis Codes



This model was produced by NASAs Lewis Research Center
Multiphysics Code for Propulsion Applications



As well as simulated turbulent cold flow into an axial compressor





Some more links on Mass Flow Choke, Isentropic Flow, and bell mouth/velocity stacks:


Mass Flow Choking

ASME/NIST Long-Radius Flow Nozzle Delta-T Company

Isentropic Flow Equations

This is what happens to flow over even an aerodynamic surface when flow velocity is at Mach 1, note that good cylinder head flow, as mentioned in my post earlier about doing your own port/polish work, keeping in mind ideal flow velocity is usually ~0.6-0.7mach.

To push a nice 170whp the compressor has to wind past 150k rpm with the flow leaving the exducer at near supersonic speeds, and look at the shock waves that can create, these have a tendency to hurt flow and efficiency:



Oblique Shock Wave theory:
Oblique Shock Information, Oblique Shock Reference Articles - FindTarget Reference

Now imagine what the casting flashes all of us have in our cylinder heads generate.. A good polish and blend would probably go a long way on a boosted application.

For those who like weird obscure and super technical engineering stuff:
Laboratory for Computational Science and Engineering

Many are free through the site, with topics like:

"An Approximate Reimann Solver for Ideal Magnetohydrodynamics"

"The Piecewise-Parabolic Method (PPM) for Gas Dynamical Simulations"

"Three-Dimensional Simulation of a Richtmeyer-Meshkov Instability with a Two-Scale Initial Perturbation"

Then there are some slightly more applicable to Fit publications:

"Very High Resolution Simulations of Compressible Turbulent Flows"

 

Wall o' shame:

 

Coolest thread ever, and very informative since i'm planning on piecing together a budget DIY turbo for my 07' FIT.

 

Thanks!

Any goals or plans on where you want to start?

 

Well i daily drive my car and just really want some more power, nothing over the top while still keeping most of its comfort and driveability. My buddy has some of the components on a DIY turbo kit that he was going to put on his brothers SOHC D16 motor, so i'll be using those parts. My main concern is what to use for engine management. AEM FIC seems to be the more popular one.

Somewhere in the 150-170hp range?

 

Yes the AEM FIC seems to be the route to go, and there are several FIC tuned, some self tuned, FitFreaks running around.

Now this method will require some reading and usually a couple weeks of experience before you will be comfortable.

What components are you intending to use?

This is the procedure I would suggest you go through before actually attempting to boost your Fit.

Ask yourself:

How many miles are on the car?

Do you allow it to warm up for a few minutes and cruise around before hard driving?

Do you allow it to idle down for a couple minutes before you turn the engine off?

Check your spark plugs.

Do a compression and leak down test, you should be able to rent these from AutoZone or NAPA or similar. How often do you check or change the oil?

If you do everything above, and post the data you have collected from the scan tool/logger we can better help you and more accurately determine if you should keep things where they are or if your engine is healthy enough to go turbo.

Then after you have your turbo kit together, before you even install it:

Buy a Turbo Timer, a UEGO Gauge controller and Sensor, and an OBD2 Scan gauge or tool or pocket logger to find out what numbers you are seeing driving around through different weather conditions.


Here are some books you should get before install and read them cover to cover:

Amazon.com: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning (9781932494426): Greg Banish: Books

Amazon.com: Designing and Tuning High-Performance Fuel Injection Systems (9781932494907): Greg Banish: Books

Amazon.com: Turbo: Real-World High-Performance Turbocharger Systems (S-A Design) (9781932494297): Jay K. Miller: Books

These will take you through the majority of what you will need to know in order to get started.

And here is one you HAVE TO buy if you turbo the car:

2007 Fit Service Manual (KA) - Helm Incorporated

In the long run you will thank me.

 

Apparently R18s have been dealing fine with the integrated header 3yrs before the l15a7 even hit the scene:



I would shit bricks if through some bizzare miracle r18 turbo manifolds fit the l15a7