While pondering this earlier, it occurred to me, there is probably no PCV in the sense that we are used to on factory turbo engines..

That line from the VC to the intake is probably all that is required since there is never positive manifold pressure and the vacuum from the intake pipe is used to pull blow-by gasses and pressure out of the crankcase without the need for a one-way PCV.

So in addition to a catch can for coolant and oil, it looks like I should be contemplating a crankcase vacuum pump like the big block v8 guys use when they slap superchargers and turbos on.

EDIT: If you type "L15A PCV" into google this thread is the first result!

 

Found these inspiring shots today:


I like how all the hardlines and wires in the engine bay were tucked. Lines were probably replaced with braided SS.

All the -AN fittings, Wiggins clamps, billet fuel rail, nitrous solenoids plus Tial BOV and wastegate are beautiful.

Does anyone know what Intake Manifold that is?

 

Looks like I'll be relocating the battery in the Fit now too!

 

Thats a K24 swap, not a L15A

 

With that said, I still want to pursue the lighter L15A in this fashion. Fortunately with the turbo mounted behind the engine, nearly half of the weight of the turbo system will be behind the shock towers.

I hear the big k series really upset the handling balance.

 

Man I love this Thread!!

 

What is that sexy piece of machinery?

 

F1 Honda RA167E
1.5L V6 (Yep, that's right, same displacement as our 1st gen's)
~1200 HP
~4 Bar Boost
Ran something like 70% Toluene for fuel!

 

So that is an 80's Formula engine? Nice.

You are correct they used to run >80% Toluene they called it "rocket fuel" some old timers still do! Since the class was limited to 1.5L and a maximum compressor wheel inducer, they often threw in as many cylinders as possible.

BMW in particular had a 1500cc V12 churning out that same 1200whp. 4 Bar is not that high believe it or not! Diesels and Toluene/Ethanol motors love high pressure ratios. Especially with compound turbocharged systems, like you see on diesel trucks and tractor pulling rigs.

I mix Toluene and pump gas in the tank and then spray a 50/50 Water/Methanol mix at the throttle body for similar results.

There are two DSMers, Paul Volk and Kevin Jewer who run compound systems and are both making more than 600lb-ft table top flat torque on a 2.0L across several thousand rpms. The part that blows my mind (and their drive trains ) is since they use a compound system, they only have to spool the small turbo and then the ensuing extra exhaust volume from the small turbo spools the big turbo almost instantly!

 

A large percentage of Berryman's B-12 is toulene. About 6 ounces of it and 6 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil added to a full tank seems to work well as an upper cylinder lubricant and fuel injector cleaner. I have been using that stuff for a long time.

 

Toluene is fantastic and you can get it at most paint stores and home depot. It is also a common constituent in pump gas, and has a higher energy density and octane than pump gas.

 

How about this.... Naphthalena, Fule inj. cleaner(8oz), WD-40(8oz) setup for at least 4-5 days. Add 8oz to 10 gal of high test gas( Exxon). It really does add some grut to our 1.5's.

 

Hmm..

I could see where using your average gas stations fuel pre 1970s this would likely have a tangible effect and potentially work quite well, but Napthalene which is an aromatic hydrocarbon and often an intentional component of gasoline, only has a blending motor octane number of 90, so in some cases this is actually working against you.

The other problem is as fuel evaporates in the tank, the napthalene precipitates out and can clog pumps injectors regulators and over time, return lines.

However, you can put some mothballs in the filter box and as they sublime they can help act as a catalyst. Some old diesel guys do this, and though I think it is probably half truth half exaggeration I have heard claims between 5-15% in fuel efficiency which means less black smoke out the exhaust, but nothing about power production.

WD40 could be acting as an uppercylinder lubricant and at the speeds our engines spin this could provide significant benefit as the friction created is astonishing as rpms increase, if I recall it was an exponential equation that determined this so that would tend to make sense.. The propellant in the WD40 is really what seems to be the most flammable, and to be honest I am not entirely sure what that is composed of.

Fuel injector cleaner does often raise the overall octane a few points, maybe as much as 5 or 6. But when I use points I am refering to .5-.6 octane points, even that is optimistic when you do the math on a whole tank. To achieve this you would need more than 8 oz. Even 8oz of toluene or xylene (both 118 octane! ) would not really effect much in an 8oz/10gal dose.

If I put 3 gallons of toluene into 7 gallons of 93octane into the Fits ~10gal tank the overall mixture would yield an effective 100.5 octane rating.

 

Maybe this will help illustrate what I am saying

 

Toluene will raise the octane 1 point for every 5 percent added. I would not add to much in gasoline as its already in there. I was told toluene burns faster but is denser than gasoline so there is more to burn. This is where people get confused about higher octane burns slower. Pure toluene costs more than 100 dollars a gallon. Iso octane burns at 35 cm millisecond compared to toluene 40 cm millisecond.

 

I don't know about $100/gallon... I have found $7/gallon for five gallon containers and $330/55gal drum to be more common.

It depends on the molecular bond configuration for determining what will burn at X rate. Diesel for instance is heavier and denser than the petroleum distillates we use, but it burns slower, which is another reason the produce the torque they do. There is more work being produced over a great sweep angle on the power stroke, and thus more torque/time.

You are exactly right in that higher octane fuel can be considered more stable, but to say outright that the flame front propagates slower by default is not necessarily true.

People also neglect latent heat values, piston and valve quench surfaces etc. when introducing fuel to the combustion chamber

 

The stuff you get at the hardware store is not pure, pure toluene is very expensive. Diesel is denser and has more BTU's and is injected under extreme pressure and vaporizes immediately and the compression fires it off.

I was told toluene burns fast thats why they used it in F1 racing in high rpm motors that rev 12000 plus rpms. It builds pressure faster than iso octane and its the main reason higher octane gets better mileage. Fuel burns at 20-40 psi per degree of timing and if you have more that 45 percent in the gas, it just burns out the exhaust. Its denser so there is more molecules to burn. Any faster than 40 psi is considered knock. Diesel actually burns fast, compression in a diesel is knock. The 20 percent diesel in regular (2005 fingerprint pdf) that the timing retards is caused by knock like compression in a diesel. Toluene usually burns at the 40 psi threshold but needs more time to burn because of density. Think of racing fuel like Sunoco GTX it 45 percent toluene and 55 percent alkylate and runs in a 8000 rpm or higher motor.

 

I had a suburban that the timing was set at 35 degrees and the race motor was 38 both 350 cubic in. and the race engine was more efficient. Used Turbo blue 110 octane because the fuel air of the fuel is 14.7 and no ethanol. I ran 93 for years in the suburban until gas went up and got 23 plus mileage. It was a low compression 8.5 compared to 10.8 in the race motor.

 

The fact that the hardware/paint store and chemical suppliers usually carry a non-pure mix is an important distinction. You're definitely right about that! I overlooked the word the first read through

Which is exactly why I mix it 70/30 Shell 93/Toluene (~100.5 effective octane) when I use it! It's also cheaper and stretches a can longer.

Fortunately I have secondary and tertiary fuel/timing maps at my disposal in the Lazer with the redline currently set @ 9250rpm (current cams are supposed to be good to 10,500rpm, built rotating assembly, ARP hardware/ACL bearings, 1.7x con rod ratio) but no higher till I get some lighter retainers, double springs, cam gears and a better hla regulator to keep some oil in the pan on WOT pulls, and my ramp rates/lift are just about pushing it on the current beehive springs and stock retainers..

but I don't know if our Fits would see much advantage to this, maybe some high boost applications, but I think I may run E85/E98 when the turbo time comes for the GD3..

Based on what we have learned so far in the other fuel thread a 100.5oct (RON+MON)/2 blend would probably be more than necessary or the computer can take advantage of, though it would probably allow MBT under all conditions. So on a hot track day it could be worth a couple degrees of timing and a few points leaner under high load.

 

Man, you are way more knowledgeable about tuning for boost than I am.... Butt dyno, spark plug reading, jet changes, float adjustment, needle position changes or replacement, indexing cam sprockets or pulleys and adjusting ignition timing curve by changing weights and springs in the distributor was all I needed to know until around 1984....