I could of swore they got a different design. Learn something learn today

 

they used to be 2 piece. but they are one piece now. you can see that they just welded them together lol

 

i would say
Mugen replica --- well if u can afford it get the real mugen...
i drove my frds 1.5L AT with mugen header, and cold air intake and it really picks up !!! alot of TQ !!!

also i think the WR 4/2/1 header is good too...but i heard it rubs !!!

 

none or OEM for naturally aspiration

side mount for turbo

s/c dunno

 

his was the real one right?

 

Wow nice Tri-Y design like the Hytech header. B)

 

js racing, mugen,spoon,

 

Best Header is the Weapon-R Race Header....
Why this is a 4-2-1 Stainless Race header.


But for an only header : Same same

 

soo where does one look to get a replica mugen header exactly?

 

On na fit, removing cat will cause u to loss back pressure, my fit actually got faster after I put the cat back on, and I would say it's a noticeble gain too, so I really doubt that the wr race header is much beneficial to a na fit, boosted maybe.

 

i don't trust weapon r race header. they finally fixed the leaking by welding. i'm pretty sure it still has fitment issue. plus the dyno gain that they post on their website is BS. i think i remember seeing a +9 hp just for their street header

 

There are and have always been differences of opinion regarding exhaust and intake modifications..... The one thing that I know from many years of messing around with cars and motorcycles is that to benefit from changes from stock, air to fuel ratio adjustments are a must.... There isn't anything wrong with the stock tube type exhaust manifold across the power band and larger diameter tubes almost always result in a loss of power and torque at least on the lower side of mid range with out A/F/ ratio changes..... A smaller tubed header that is focussed on increasing bottom end/mid range torque is the best bet unless you are equipped to make changes to the ignition timing and air to fuel ratios.... Horsepower figures sound impressive but it is torque that wins races.

 

I have the T1R 'Response' header, tuned for midrange response and torque. By 'tuned', I mean that they built prototypes with several different tubing diameters, put them in the car, dyno'd them, and went with the size that provided the best numbers. It's the only header I've seen for the Fit that actually appears to have been engineered.

Fitment is perfect too. Now if they'd only add a couple of brackets to accomodate the stock heat shield...

 

To date, from what i've heard, DC Sports seems to be hard to beat dollar per dollar... T1R may be a better bet if you have more cash! Weapon R Race may be good too if you have a cat-back to go with it and the police don't want to ruin your fun from too much noise that, i assume, would result by deleting the Cat!

Spoon, Mugen... From what i've heard, it's not very appealing from a ''Dollar\Gain ratio'' perspective!!
Megan... Seems it's making good top end but then fades if somebody get in the car...

Like Texas Coyote said, ''Torque Wins Races'' and for 250$ i would get a DC Sports from E-bay or some kind of long tube... Maybe Hytech makes a Header for the Fit? I would be sold to them!

Marko!!

 

After all that, which one is the best for a N/A setup for the track with a good tuning on dyno?

It give me headache to trying the best one for what i want to do.. T1R, Weapon R, Mugen, DC, J's racing.. Fuck. Which one are the best bang for buck for the n/a!!

Thanks

 

It is hard to get an usable power increase worth the price of a well made set of headers on an otherwise stock engine configuration and it could even lead to less than desirable performance than the stock header through the overall power band..... Whatever you get be sure that the power increase is throughout the RPM range and not all or nothing at certain revs..... A smaller increase over a larger percentage of RPM is more usable than a large increase over a small percentage, much like the stock header works on an engine without internal modifications or forced induction over 5 PSI.

 

weapon r race header+50mm skunk catback=best setup by far.

 

Oh hell yes with the extended power band of 10 PSI.... But it would murder the low end on a N/A/engine.

 

No actually that setup works really well on both na and boost from what I've experienced.

 

Hey that is great.... I wonder how much of the power increase results from deleting the cat, any idea about that?