Attn - anyone who has made a Turbo manifold for the L15A
#1
Attn - anyone who has made a Turbo manifold for the L15A
Where did you get the flange for the head? I am going to have a friend weld me up a basic log style manifold for a T25 but I need to locate a head flange.
Is there anyone who makes one?
If not I was going to buy an Ebay header and cut the flange off that, however they are thin and I'd rather not have to.
Other option is hand make one from a sheet of steel, but cutting it out would take forever and I'd rather not have to.
So if you made your own manifold, what did you do for a flange?
Is there anyone who makes one?
If not I was going to buy an Ebay header and cut the flange off that, however they are thin and I'd rather not have to.
Other option is hand make one from a sheet of steel, but cutting it out would take forever and I'd rather not have to.
So if you made your own manifold, what did you do for a flange?
#2
http://weirtech.ca/pdf/catalog-1.pdf This is a local guy (to me), and I've bought a couple from him for $20.
I've built one for my self, but will be working on another one in the next couple months as I have a couple cracks that just keep forming. If their is enough interest for a pre fabbed manifold for a T25, I've already talked to the Mr. Weir and he's willing to use my car as a mock up, but he'd need a good amount of interest.
I've built one for my self, but will be working on another one in the next couple months as I have a couple cracks that just keep forming. If their is enough interest for a pre fabbed manifold for a T25, I've already talked to the Mr. Weir and he's willing to use my car as a mock up, but he'd need a good amount of interest.
#4
9058024703 And yes he does ship to US, and anywhere for that. Weirtech, Precision Machining & Fabrication (bottom left is contact info)
#6
Excellent, thanks much for the info. I called and ordered the flanges this morning.
This was the only part I was really concerned with, thanks again for posting up the info. I've pretty much got everything else figured out.
In case anyone is curious.
AEM FI/C, 410cc Injectors, 2g DSM T25 Turbo and O2 housing, Log Manifold, 2.25" Exhaust, FMIC, OEM 2g BOV (They leak past 12psi, it's a fail safe) Wideband O2 & a Boost Gauge.... Just a budget DIY kit.
This was the only part I was really concerned with, thanks again for posting up the info. I've pretty much got everything else figured out.
In case anyone is curious.
AEM FI/C, 410cc Injectors, 2g DSM T25 Turbo and O2 housing, Log Manifold, 2.25" Exhaust, FMIC, OEM 2g BOV (They leak past 12psi, it's a fail safe) Wideband O2 & a Boost Gauge.... Just a budget DIY kit.
Last edited by Polish; 06-17-2009 at 10:53 AM.
#9
Great to hear.
Which Weld els did you use? I am planning on the 304 SS 1.5" Diameter ones from McMaster Carr, 2 90* Elbows and 2 Tees. From my research it seems that is what is most commonly used.
Which Weld els did you use? I am planning on the 304 SS 1.5" Diameter ones from McMaster Carr, 2 90* Elbows and 2 Tees. From my research it seems that is what is most commonly used.
#10
1/4" go well with the flange for the L15A...but 1/2" could work as well
I purchased my weld els from Curtis Steel in Las Vegas, NV. If they valued out business they would have offered to heli-are the bastard when I bought the pieces from them...instead they just laughed. They're clueless if it doesn't involve structural steel/welding.
But....they welded nice and withstood the heat very well
I purchased my weld els from Curtis Steel in Las Vegas, NV. If they valued out business they would have offered to heli-are the bastard when I bought the pieces from them...instead they just laughed. They're clueless if it doesn't involve structural steel/welding.
But....they welded nice and withstood the heat very well
#11
Just a thought but do any other manifolds "come close" to bolting up to the fit bolt pattern? Could someone take some measurements....like distance between runners etc?
EDIT: something I just noticed while on eBay looking at some listings....the manifold for the k20 looks A LOT like the manifold for the l15a....
K20:
L15A:
EDIT: something I just noticed while on eBay looking at some listings....the manifold for the k20 looks A LOT like the manifold for the l15a....
K20:
L15A:
Last edited by 1990hondahf; 06-30-2009 at 11:40 PM.
#12
I had the same thought but none looked close enough to warrant me buying one, plus the turbo flange location is likely going to be off. So I decided not to bother as the amount of work required to make it work would not be worth it. Best to just do it yourself and know it's going to fit.
The K20 flange looks close but just on a quick glance you'll see the upper holes sit partially above the # 1 and # 4 runners where as the L15 manifold upper holes sit between the runners.
If someone has a gasket for both and could lay them over each other I imagine the runner spacing is off as well, even though it appears close. Even if it were exact the turbo flange location is still an issue. Along with where it places the turbo.
-------Small update on my Turbo kit---------
I've since acquired a 14b Turbo from a Galant VR4, I wanted the T25 but couldn't find one for the price I wanted. So I got the 14b (405cfm compared to 290cfm for the T25) instead, it flows more but will likely lag a bit more. However for the price I couldn't say no. I've also got some bits of piping, 2g DSM BOV, Autometer Boost gauge, the Flanges as seen above, and a stock 2g DSM Turbo muffer. However after checking the muffler and how it fits in the rear I won't be using it plus it is heavy as hell. I may salvage the tips from it but that is it. I'll figure out something else for the muffler.
The K20 flange looks close but just on a quick glance you'll see the upper holes sit partially above the # 1 and # 4 runners where as the L15 manifold upper holes sit between the runners.
If someone has a gasket for both and could lay them over each other I imagine the runner spacing is off as well, even though it appears close. Even if it were exact the turbo flange location is still an issue. Along with where it places the turbo.
-------Small update on my Turbo kit---------
I've since acquired a 14b Turbo from a Galant VR4, I wanted the T25 but couldn't find one for the price I wanted. So I got the 14b (405cfm compared to 290cfm for the T25) instead, it flows more but will likely lag a bit more. However for the price I couldn't say no. I've also got some bits of piping, 2g DSM BOV, Autometer Boost gauge, the Flanges as seen above, and a stock 2g DSM Turbo muffer. However after checking the muffler and how it fits in the rear I won't be using it plus it is heavy as hell. I may salvage the tips from it but that is it. I'll figure out something else for the muffler.
Last edited by Polish; 07-01-2009 at 12:37 AM.
#13
just a few things to consider.
one:make sure you put the flange on before you start welding on it. it will only go on one way. not symetrical although it looks like it is.
two: don't get stainless steel weld el's unless you have a proper welding setup for stainless. sch 10 works fine for SS but you may want to go with sch 40 el's if your going the mild steel approach.
three: don't rush it! and realize it's going to take alot of man hours. don't think your going to whip it out in a weekend. because you will run into all the "little shit" that kills you. lol
one:make sure you put the flange on before you start welding on it. it will only go on one way. not symetrical although it looks like it is.
two: don't get stainless steel weld el's unless you have a proper welding setup for stainless. sch 10 works fine for SS but you may want to go with sch 40 el's if your going the mild steel approach.
three: don't rush it! and realize it's going to take alot of man hours. don't think your going to whip it out in a weekend. because you will run into all the "little shit" that kills you. lol
#14
too bad you guys are so far away cause i have all the certs to weld the stainless alloys. i would love to help fabricate these up.... pm me if you have any alloy related questions.
sch40 mild steel would be way freaking heavy. sch 20 would be more efficient since there is not much acidic corrosion that would happen. just rust would be the only concern.
sch40 mild steel would be way freaking heavy. sch 20 would be more efficient since there is not much acidic corrosion that would happen. just rust would be the only concern.
#15
problem is where can you find sch 20 at a decent price? sch 10 and sch 40 are the most common/mass produced so you can get them at decent prices. I vote for sch 10 316L if I was building one, but I also own a tig. everything is a comprimise if you don't have the right equipment.
#17
Thanks for the advice.
I've never turbo charged an NA car but I've had a plenty of turbo cars in the past so it's not my first rodeo. And by that I don't mean I'm some snot nosed kit who put a boost controller on his stock Turbo car. I've done it all aside from a complete engine rebuild or transmission rebuild, aside from that I've done it.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/837754/1
Check out my old VR4.
The turbo Fit may get put on hold as I'm looking at buying a house but I have collected a few more pieces. It will be done eventually but maybe a little later than sooner.
As for rushing, not me. I've been around long enough to know building fast makes you slow and building slow makes you fast.
I've never turbo charged an NA car but I've had a plenty of turbo cars in the past so it's not my first rodeo. And by that I don't mean I'm some snot nosed kit who put a boost controller on his stock Turbo car. I've done it all aside from a complete engine rebuild or transmission rebuild, aside from that I've done it.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/837754/1
Check out my old VR4.
The turbo Fit may get put on hold as I'm looking at buying a house but I have collected a few more pieces. It will be done eventually but maybe a little later than sooner.
As for rushing, not me. I've been around long enough to know building fast makes you slow and building slow makes you fast.
Last edited by Polish; 07-09-2009 at 11:42 PM.