WeaponR RaceHeader. (Those With It)
#1
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 8,956
WeaponR RaceHeader. (Those With It)
For the people with the WeaponR RACE HEADER, do you have any complaints or problems?
Figured Id make this post so those of you can share the problems youre having with it and what you did to fix those problems.
I installed my header last weekend. Install was pretty easy. Fitment seemed to be ok. The heat shield looked a bit close to the header so I bent it back a bit.
I go for a drive and it rubs pretty bad on slightly hard take offs. When the A/C's on almost all the time as it takes a little more to accelerate.
The only thing I can see thats close to the header and possibly hitting is;
1. The EPS (Electronic Power Steering) which is not good. Its very close. Basically a finger to two finger gap.
2. Steering rack. Its also rather close. I can fit my index finger between it, but thats about it.
No fix for that as of yet. If it is those parts hitting there is no fix. The 4-2 part of the header is stationary and theres no adjustments.
The leaks. Anyone else have leaks at the 4-2 collector? Its basically common sense that its going to leak there. Slip some pipes into other pipes and hold them together with tiny bolts? The exhaust still moves up and down freely, of course exhaust gases are going to seep.
I have yet to try my fixes yet. I was going to buy those stainless band clamps that are about 1-1.5in wide and tighten them down over both pipes.
Similar to T-bolt clamps for turbo set-ups. However, Im not sure if they make them in such small sizes? I havent looked.
Last resort, have it welded together. Thats what Ill probably do. Problem is; theres not room for anyone to get in the area.
Also, those that have it installed with manual transmissions. CHECK YOUR SHIFTER CABLES!
Mine were very close to the header. I pulled them back with a ziptie. Rather cheesy but itll save you from buying new cables.
My car shifts identical to the way it did before.
Figured Id make this post so those of you can share the problems youre having with it and what you did to fix those problems.
I installed my header last weekend. Install was pretty easy. Fitment seemed to be ok. The heat shield looked a bit close to the header so I bent it back a bit.
I go for a drive and it rubs pretty bad on slightly hard take offs. When the A/C's on almost all the time as it takes a little more to accelerate.
The only thing I can see thats close to the header and possibly hitting is;
1. The EPS (Electronic Power Steering) which is not good. Its very close. Basically a finger to two finger gap.
2. Steering rack. Its also rather close. I can fit my index finger between it, but thats about it.
No fix for that as of yet. If it is those parts hitting there is no fix. The 4-2 part of the header is stationary and theres no adjustments.
The leaks. Anyone else have leaks at the 4-2 collector? Its basically common sense that its going to leak there. Slip some pipes into other pipes and hold them together with tiny bolts? The exhaust still moves up and down freely, of course exhaust gases are going to seep.
I have yet to try my fixes yet. I was going to buy those stainless band clamps that are about 1-1.5in wide and tighten them down over both pipes.
Similar to T-bolt clamps for turbo set-ups. However, Im not sure if they make them in such small sizes? I havent looked.
Last resort, have it welded together. Thats what Ill probably do. Problem is; theres not room for anyone to get in the area.
Also, those that have it installed with manual transmissions. CHECK YOUR SHIFTER CABLES!
Mine were very close to the header. I pulled them back with a ziptie. Rather cheesy but itll save you from buying new cables.
My car shifts identical to the way it did before.
#5
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 8,956
Gains were deff there. Patial throttle felt way better, as did full throttle.
Updated. My Check Engine Light (CEL) popped on today.
Thought that wasnt suppose to happen? *rolls eyes*
Updated. My Check Engine Light (CEL) popped on today.
Thought that wasnt suppose to happen? *rolls eyes*
#6
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 8,956
Removed the WR o2 fix. It spaced the o2 sensor way too far from the exhaust flow. Causing a CEL.
Heres my fix;
Go to an autoparts store, my local Advance Auto Parts had this.
Its spark plugs non foulers. Make sure you purchase part number 42002 due to the difference in sizing. It comes with 2 per package. I believe theyre $5.
Youll also need a 1/2in drill bit and a drill. (duh) Drill out the center of the non fouler. I drilled from the flush flat side as I didnt want to screw up the threads. Once youre through the non fouler, oblong the hole out a bit so its almost flush with the threaded inside.
Be CAREFUL not to mess up the threads.
Thats it basically. Screw in the o2 and then screw in the non fouler into the header or cat-delete.
Gutted cats = 1 non fouler.
Test-pipes = 2 non foulers.
So far, no CEL. I drove her for 50-60miles yesterday after the install; to and from work today.
Heres my fix;
Go to an autoparts store, my local Advance Auto Parts had this.
Its spark plugs non foulers. Make sure you purchase part number 42002 due to the difference in sizing. It comes with 2 per package. I believe theyre $5.
Youll also need a 1/2in drill bit and a drill. (duh) Drill out the center of the non fouler. I drilled from the flush flat side as I didnt want to screw up the threads. Once youre through the non fouler, oblong the hole out a bit so its almost flush with the threaded inside.
Be CAREFUL not to mess up the threads.
Thats it basically. Screw in the o2 and then screw in the non fouler into the header or cat-delete.
Gutted cats = 1 non fouler.
Test-pipes = 2 non foulers.
So far, no CEL. I drove her for 50-60miles yesterday after the install; to and from work today.
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