i dont know a whole lot about cars but im having a friend of mine change my clutch next weekend and install a lighter flywheel(if i can find one...)

im also planning on installing a short shifter.
i ordered the skunk2 short shifter(the one where you change the bushings not the actual shifter)

i would also like to install t1r "quick shifter"...
A&J Racing :: Drivetrain :: Fit/Jazz (GD3/4) :: T1R Quicker Shifter - Honda Fit 07-08 GD3

is this possible?

 

So you want to install the hard bushings but you don't want the actual skunk 2 shifter?

Check out the H-Fit bushings...

 

well the skunk2 kit i got is just bushings from what i know? looks like 4 washers then some other little piece you change. doesnt come with an actual shifter.

 

i think im just gonna order the t1r also and see what i can do. would be really nice to combine the both im sure.

anybody see any reason why it wouldnt be possible? should have my skunk2 here in a few days and the t1r in 2 weeks, so will let everybody know how that goes...

 

The skunk2 to my knowledge has an adapter for shorter throw that attaches to the bottom of the shifter along with the bushings. Thats why I asked, I have the Mugen so I don't know for sure on the skunk2

 

yeah it does i just checked it out, yeah im hopefully going to get the t1r also...the t1r as far as i can tell from the picture just comes with the actual shifter bar and nothing else. hopefully i the skunk2 adapter will fit on the t1r shifter, if not i guess i can just install the bushings from the skunk2 with the t1r shifter and leave out the extender for the shifter bar. guess i coulda saved about 20$ if i got the h fit bushings, lol... ;] oh well well see how it goes. will post a review of how it all goes, may be pics of the install if it looks like it will go together, well see.

 

TFI! i was also interested in this

 

what is tfi? and i will let you know how it goes in a week or 2... i have a feeling i wont be able to use the skunk2 adapater on the t1r shifter...but we will see. i dont see why i at least wouldnt be able to use the t1r with the skunk2 bushings. i tried to search and see if anybody has done this and knows if the adapter will work on the t1r but no info...

 

i feel ya. TFI = tagged for interest.

 

Yes it will work BUT you may not have enough clearance between the end of the shifter and the floorboard. since the shifter and the extension for Skunk2 both add length to the shift lever using both extends the lever beyond what they would be separate.

Put them in and try it checking the clearance under the end. If it hits all you need to do is make a couple of new spacers like the skunk 2 ones but higher, or just add some metal washers until you have adequate clearance.

Once it's in you will be having a much greater mechanical advantage with the longer lever and it will be possible to "Overpower" your syncros and end up forcing them into locked position because you are putting more force into moving them. That will result in much quicker wearing out of the syncros so try and contain yourself to using full power, as fast, and hard as you can, type shifts only once in awhile.

 

wow really? that will suck, i drive in DC to get to and from work...i shift at redline multiple times in a day. is this really a concern? what are syncros and how hard is it to replace that?

i also will like to take it to the track once my clutch is fixed and broken in....guess it would be stupid to do this if im just going to be breaking shit? so combining the 2 would mean...no racing what so ever? i guess may be when i find out what syncros are is when ill decide whether or not to do it. haha

 

It's not the RPM that kills the syncros it's the force and speed of you changing the gears. When you shift NORMALLY like you were driving in traffic and not in a hurry using the monster shifter is just like normal no problems.

But think about it like this.... you put both in and you are just puttering along when like Popeye you gulp your spinach and all of a sudden you are 4 times stronger than before and now you want to wring it out a bit and start banging full force power shifts THAT IS WHEN THE PROBLEM COMES UP.

With the longer lever it's like you are 4 times (estimate) stronger than before and when you get excited and start banging the shifter harder and FASTER than the stock shifter could ever go there is not enough TIME for the syncros to slow down the gears to match speeds for one problem.

The other problem is that moving the syncro slider faster and harder than stock you end up forcing the blocking rings (parts of the syncro system) onto the mating face (the slopped part of the gear) so hard that you overcome the friction that normally causes the gear to slow down and match speeds actually forcing the rings onto the gear not the more gentle slower stock shift time where the rings are moved toward the forcing cone and there is time and less pressure so the gear slows down and everything is hunky dory with much less wear.

And since you are now Popeye and so strong you MAY actually force the rings onto the gear too far causing the rings to stretch out (wear faster) rather than gently being MOVED onto a normal position.

When manufactures of new shifters like Hurst, Mr. Gasket B&M etc. design and build a new high performance shifter the majority of them have STOPS added to the shifter because of this problem of added mechanical advantage. These stops are actual adjustable hardened bolts built into the shifter body that when you shift the shift handle actually bumps into the stops at the farthest point of the shift just to prevent the shifter from moving too far. You CAN'T PHYSICALLY move the shit lever too far because the stops are in the way and it CAN'T go too far because the stops stop it (that's how they got the name stops).

When you are racing and excited and the adrenaline is flowing the forces put into the shift handle are tremendous, for example I once BENT a Hurst shift handle when power shifting and it was one of the chrome thick ones that come in the old style 4 speed shifter kits.

So if you have not designed and built some stops into your new setup shifting normally in everyday driving (no matter the RPM) your new setup works just like stock just shorter shifts.

The problems MAY occur if and when you really bang the shifts going into the next gear because you are now Popeye and so much stronger. That being said if you keep this in mind and bang a shift once in awhile that is not a major problem. But if you shift real hard and fast every time you will wear the syncros faster than normal. Shifting faster will cause less problems and wear than shifting harder so try not to be a gorilla.

The syncros are major parts of your transmission and the whole transmission has to be removed and opened to replace them. And you MAY need to replace gears also so it's not a simple or cheap job to replace them.

 

wow really good explanation on that thanks a lot. rep point for the great description for a newb ;D

also those stop things you are talking about, any idea if there are any out fo rthe fit yet? ive noticed that the skunk2 ss kit i ordered came with 4 new bolts? im assuming those are just longer bolts to hold down the shifter assembly since it is getting raised and not "stops". i think i will still put the 2 together and just be very aware of how i shift. but not 100% sure i might just keep the skunk2 and not the t1r if there arent any "stops" available for the fit.

now if i combine the t1r and ss i should still be able to race...just have to stay very aware of how i am shifting when going down the track right? i dont think that should be a problem, so i will combine the 2 and if i find myself unable to stay in control of the force in which i shift i will get rid of one of the 2 short shifters. ive never been down the 1/4 mile or on a track yet, so that will have to be one of the first things i do when i get it done to make sure i can stay in control of the force. im sure the adrenline rush is crazy tho.

thanks again for the great description

 

All a great speech except for the increased mechanical advantage part. Your are with a short shifter, in effect moving the fulcrum to reduce mechanical advantage. This does howeevr increase the speed at which the shifter rod moves the cables. Since the throw is shorter.

Stock requires somewhere around 6" of travel from 1st to 2nd gear. With a skink2 S kit it's around 4 5/8" travel with a stock height shift knob. roughly 22% shorter throw which resuls in 22% faster gear engagement if your shifting at the same physical speed. With a SS kit you require more physical force to actuate the gears, (less mechanical advantage) but it requires less movement to engage a gear.

I have a Skunk2 kit, and I replaced the rubber shifter bushings with aluminum washers. As well I hacked 1/2" off the threads on my shift rod and use a Momo race airleather knob which sits almost flush witht he top of the rod. It certainly takes moe force to engage a gear, however I'm dow to 3 1/4" of shifter travel to go between 1st and 3rd.

Claymore I'm amazed you're usually very correct with your technical explanations.

 

I owe Injundon an apology for impugning his mechanical acumen. He is correct and I'm wrong. I must have had a brain fart and I had it ass backward. I went back and worked it out on paper and the force at the end of the stick is lessened as you add lenght to that end. But the advice still holds because the speed increases. He is correct and I was wrong. Good catch.