Possible 8k RPM L15
#21
Earl Laskey passed away a couple of years ago. very smart and down to earth guy. RIP earl.
as for Slimjimx701x I give credit where it's do. don't get me wrong there are some very impressive n/a cars out there, but you have to look at the simple physic's of it. first off our engines have a very poor rod stroke ratio(insane loading on cylinder walls at high rpm's even with the offset crank) second our cylinder heads have small ports which is great for low end velocity but not built for high rpms. as far as i'm aware there are no aftermarket cam's out there. and look at a vast majority of built n/a cars. they have insanly low geared transmissions with very high final drives (in the 4.7-4.9:1 area's) gearing would play a huge role in making a car quick(hence the applied tq stated by another earlier) ultimately you need to have the car setup to live in it's desired power band. example say you have a "laggy" turbo car that makes the meat of its power from 4k-6.5k. havent payed much attention but last I checked our cars stay above 4k when shifted at 6.5k??? now lets say you have an asperated car that has a narrower powerband with its power being made from 6.5k-8k. ok now rap out our stock gearing and i'm willing to bet it will fall out of the powerband unless you have a tight gear ratio trans. it all comes down to volumetric efficency. bigger ports(head work) bigger cam(not that we have one) bigger exhaust all = less velocity at lower engine speeds=lower VE. hence why all n/a builds have "peaky" powerbands. not trying to discourage you but just trying to help people go in the right direction. if you want to n/a go K series.
as for Slimjimx701x I give credit where it's do. don't get me wrong there are some very impressive n/a cars out there, but you have to look at the simple physic's of it. first off our engines have a very poor rod stroke ratio(insane loading on cylinder walls at high rpm's even with the offset crank) second our cylinder heads have small ports which is great for low end velocity but not built for high rpms. as far as i'm aware there are no aftermarket cam's out there. and look at a vast majority of built n/a cars. they have insanly low geared transmissions with very high final drives (in the 4.7-4.9:1 area's) gearing would play a huge role in making a car quick(hence the applied tq stated by another earlier) ultimately you need to have the car setup to live in it's desired power band. example say you have a "laggy" turbo car that makes the meat of its power from 4k-6.5k. havent payed much attention but last I checked our cars stay above 4k when shifted at 6.5k??? now lets say you have an asperated car that has a narrower powerband with its power being made from 6.5k-8k. ok now rap out our stock gearing and i'm willing to bet it will fall out of the powerband unless you have a tight gear ratio trans. it all comes down to volumetric efficency. bigger ports(head work) bigger cam(not that we have one) bigger exhaust all = less velocity at lower engine speeds=lower VE. hence why all n/a builds have "peaky" powerbands. not trying to discourage you but just trying to help people go in the right direction. if you want to n/a go K series.
This maybe off topic, but I really want to do and currently researching is a kswap (Spoon's 11k rpm version, yes I want to dream), however the added 100 pounds (give or take) is going to kill the already bad weight balance, and I think is very hard to fix or a the super lightweight (in a car) and 11k rpm Hayabusa motor (dream version: the v8 Hayabusa V8 engine - The Kneeslider ) ; however the tranny is a sequential gearbox (good and bad ) and to my knowledge there is no reverse and weak torque (can be fix I believe) to make this motor "practical." I wonder if I can get your opinion on those ideas?. Sorry for some run-on sentences .
-Jimmy
EDIT: Of course with any practical thinking, we can just get a different car for a pure track car. I just want to toss up the idea
Last edited by Slimjimx701x; 04-11-2008 at 02:56 AM.
#22
Don't worry about discouraging me (I was expecting for people to bringing in the other side of this motor), I just wanted to bring in more info that the l15 still have hope and I much appreciate the info you given.
This maybe off topic, but I really want to do and currently researching is a kswap (Spoon's 11k rpm version, yes I want to dream), however the added 100 pounds (give or take) is going to kill the already bad weight balance, and I think is very hard to fix or a the super lightweight (in a car) and 11k rpm Hayabusa motor (dream version: the v8 Hayabusa V8 engine - The Kneeslider ) ; however the tranny is a sequential gearbox (good and bad ) and to my knowledge there is no reverse and weak torque (can be fix I believe) to make this motor "practical." I wonder if I can get your opinion on those ideas?. Sorry for some run-on sentences .
-Jimmy
EDIT: Of course with any practical thinking, we can just get a different car for a pure track car. I just want to toss up the idea
This maybe off topic, but I really want to do and currently researching is a kswap (Spoon's 11k rpm version, yes I want to dream), however the added 100 pounds (give or take) is going to kill the already bad weight balance, and I think is very hard to fix or a the super lightweight (in a car) and 11k rpm Hayabusa motor (dream version: the v8 Hayabusa V8 engine - The Kneeslider ) ; however the tranny is a sequential gearbox (good and bad ) and to my knowledge there is no reverse and weak torque (can be fix I believe) to make this motor "practical." I wonder if I can get your opinion on those ideas?. Sorry for some run-on sentences .
-Jimmy
EDIT: Of course with any practical thinking, we can just get a different car for a pure track car. I just want to toss up the idea
#23
Temped . But I'm properly going to end up with the k20 for "ease." I'm just toying with the ideas of other motors
EDIT: I did toy with an AWD a few weeks ago, but it was too much work with little benefits.
Last edited by Slimjimx701x; 04-11-2008 at 04:23 AM.
#25
Very well said. Also a good side note would be the decision to go K series would give you LOTS and LOTS of trans/clutch options as well as cam, turbo, s/c, internals, differential, etc... and the mods would be cheaper and more readily available.
You just have to rip apart every part of your car in front of your driver seat.
You just have to rip apart every part of your car in front of your driver seat.
ha ha, thats the whole trick isn't it?
i dunno about turbos and such though....there is no room to work in and everything would have to be custom made...and thats a far cry from readily available.
I think n/a for the fit is awesome, even given the less than stellar stock motor.
but as far as bang for buck goes, right now nothing beats the superchargers from kraftwerks or the tr1 turbos. the high boost applications make what a k20 swap would, at a fraction of the price, and the low boost options make great DD's. ( ha-ha, sounded dirty.)
k20's open up a whole new world, but again, at a very very costly price.
#26
i doubt that it is. the rotrex kit for our cars, which is like, the nicest and un-stressful for the engine f.i. kit i've ever seen, still requires at least 91 octane.
there is only one car that i know of that only requires 87 octane from the factory that also happens to be a turbo: the volvo c30/s40. and they run lean from the factory.
i certainly don't doubt what you personally have done in the past, i just dont think that it would bode well for the fit, and all the f.i applications out right NOW, currently require it.
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