uh yeah but it would still be a 15sec run....thats a long time for people to be laughing about how slow your car is. I say put at least 100 shot on there or dont waste your money.

 

I had a zex wet kit 35shot on my v6 escape for daily, and a 50shot when i went to the track, and i loved it! i was runnin low 14's with it and the 20lb bottle lasted forever between fill-ups, i never ran more than 35 on the street cause i didnt want to have any problems and i didnt. I could only imagine a 50shot on a fit.

 

Don't mean to bring a thread back from the dead, but I was running a 75 shot on my fit for maybe a couple weeks (about half the bottle) before it loaded up my intake and backfired (...BOOM). I've since removed the nitrous and then (when I was really bored one day) RE installed it, but with 50HP jets (after replacing the plenum, of course). I've run it a couple times since the install, and it seems pretty stable. A 50 shot really isn't much, it seems. In 4th or 5th gear you don't really feel much.

 

you should never spray nitrous in 5th. thats just way to much of a load. your likely to damage something. spraying to to top of 4th is pushing it too. sustained load on the spray kills!

 

Also, never NEVER spray on & off in cycles (surging) when you're running a 75 shot rich as f*ck, and your nozzle has shifted and is now spraying at the wall of your TB.

Puddles anyone?

On a related note, I no longer have an engine cover.... that blew up with the plenum.

I've learned some things about nitrous, I guess you could say.

 

lol. my buddy blew up his intake on his mustang once. it was funny as hell. same thing. the car got loose so it he kept pedaling it to get it straight, then boom. plastic intakes arent very forgiving. also had a buddy with a wrx and he had 5 people in the car going uphill in 4th. it bent the throttle plate backwards and blew the intercooler off. its fun stuff but you gotta be carefull sometimes.

 

what do you mean on and off in cycles?

and do you think the 50 shot would then be safe for daily?

lol, how much was the new intake manifold?

 

By on / off cycles, I mean in & out of the gas, from full spray to vaccum and back repeatedly. This behavior makes the spark timing swing around a LOT and it's more likely you'll get an errant spark / hot spot that could ignite any fuel/nitrous in your intake manifold.

As for daily driving, I've got a 50shot installed on my car now as daily, but I certainly wouldn't use it every day. That's mostly because I'm still a little gunshy from last time I ran N2O (you're never the same after your car spits fire over the windshield). I'd say 50 is [mostly] harmless if you're jetted right and your nozzle isn't pointing at the wall of your intake. Most instructions don't make a big enough point about that, I think. I'm relatively certain that spraying at the wall of my intake is what caused the fuel to fall out of suspension and puddle. Also, a warm bottle doesn't hurt, as more N2O pressure = better atomization and shearing at the nozzle, so you're less likely to puddle. Colder plugs certainly wouldn't hurt, but I don't think they're a necessity at the 50hp level.

That new intake manifold was a little under 200, I think. I don't remember too clearly, I just had it towed back to the performance shop I had just left (had JUST bought 50 hp jets and 5lb of nitrous to top off my bottle, dammit) and told em to fix it. I was on work term for my school, so I worked 40-50 hours a week and didn't have the time to fix it (especially considering it was the dead of winter in Chicago. I couldn't stay outside and work for more than 10 min at a time before I had to go inside to warm up!). The repair plus uninstallation of the nitrous (at ~100$/hr labor, mind you) was 600$, with rush shipping of the plenum and the plastic cowl at the bottom of the windshield (that was shattered too), as this all happened 5 days before I needed to move 400 miles to go back to school!

 

heres a good thing to remember about nitrous. its not sequential. that means that when the valves are closed for a cylinder and you are on nitrous. nitrous keeps on spaying regardless. thats what leads to "pooling" of nitrous in the plenum and cylinder head that can cause to detention and it wrecks havoc on your engine.
while 50 shot is "safe" 75 is perfectly ok as long as you pull timing seach around for whats safe in terms of retarding the timing.

 

true. thats why its only optimal to spray at WOT and the velocity in the intake helps keep the mixture in suspension. granted direct port or dry is safer but I don't see a 75 or 50 shot hurting anything as long as the precautions are taken. as stated. only bad thing is for retarding timing you really don't have too many "cheap" options.

 

so it only pools if it sprays when you're not at WOT?

The NX Fly-By kit has this:
Nitrous Express TPS Autolearn


Wouldn't that prevent the pooling problem and make it safe?

 

pooling is inevitable, pooling happens not at wot because when you spray whether at wot or not the same amount of nitrous is sprayed. the engine with higher nitrous shots may not be able to burn all of the nitrous or there is just to much nitrous. thats what causes pooling.
another result of spraying while not at wot. way to much stress on the engine. when you think about it. when you are at wot, there is more fuel being used than while not at wot. since nitrous sprays a certain shot, no matter what the throttle position. spraying nitrous with little throttle input can put more stress on the engine because there is more nitrous than gas during the combustion cycle.

 

well to an extent. intake manifold design and the amount of nitrous also come into play. the more nitrous your injecting(say a 35 shot vs 75shot) the larger volume of fuel/nitrous you have to run through the intake. so it could fall out of suspension and puddle easier than a smaller shot like a 35/50shot.

intake manifold design also comes into play. if there is a greater Labyrinth to travel through the greater the chance the fuel could fall out of suspension and puddle. our intake isn't too bad. the old 5.0 mustangs were terrible for puddling.

 

alright. good.

i'm purchasing:
Nitrous kit w/ tps sensor
Window switch
Bottle warmer & Pressure Gauge
Nitrous & Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure Sensor Switch
2 Steps colder plugs

Having it dyno tuned and will be running an e-manage ultimate with:

Intake, Header, Downpipe, B-Pipe, Axle back, Intake Manifold

Running a 50 shot.

For everything necessary for the nitrous(not including e-manage, tune, or intake manif), I was quoted $1000 installed by my very professional local tuner shop.

Did I miss anything for my safe nitrous kit?

 

I think going two steps colder is a little much. my reccomendation is to get regular ngk copper's (v-power) 1 step colder and just buy a box of them, there cheap. you may want to consider AEM fi/c instead of the e-manage. I don't remember if e-manage had programmable outputs. I know the aem does. you can program the aem to turn on the nitrous at a desired rpm and throttle position so you could save some money by buying a regular kit.

in short buying a aem FI/C would act as a fuel controller, ignition controller(for retarding timing on the spray), window switch(when the nitrous turns on), and a tps controller/wot controll.

one other thing that would make this system "idiot proof"(no punn intended) is a rpm switch thats shuts the nitrous off before you hit fuel cut(6800) just in case you overrev or miss a shift.

 

does the fi/c connect to the obd2 port?

if so, can two things be connected to the obd2 port? I still want to use my scangauge

 

Why would anyone spray when not WOT?

 

you would be surprised how dumb people can be.

 

no it does not. I installs similar to the e-manage. you will need to splice into ecu wiring behind the glove box. or you'll need to have a custom jumper harness made (i'm actually looking into this now so I won't have to butcher the factory harness) another feature the FI/C has which will be handy for your tuner is data logging. and 02 sensor remapping.

you'll still be able to run your scangauge.

 

awesome, I wasn't sure with all of that mention of "obdII vehicles only!" etc.

so, is a wideband gauge required for tuning or could I tune with my laptop?

when it comes to things that could make my engine go poot I leave it up to my mechanic, I'm not that bold with my skills yet. lol. so the nitrous and the electronics will be professionally done by experienced techs who have worked with the products before.

sorry I'm a bit in the dark about most of this :-D