Password:JDM Honda Fit PowerChamber
#21
yes, I agree plus I would throw in a buddy club battery.
#23
Anyone have a pic of the ARC box for the FIT? It looks like it will be the new "Super Induction Box" style but I still would like to see a photo of it.
#25
i like the odyssey better. stuff is in and it looks good and yes there are some imperfections as mentioned on password. but all in all im happy with it i just need to order the battery and the relocator now
#27
Ok, lets see what's worth what:
L15A (boosted, because going NA is stupid with this motor)
10psi FI kit (Any kit be it JRSC, HKS, T1R) = about $5,000 for about 180wph
pro: Decent MPG, light set up, cheap to fix if you blow anything up
con: (for turbos) now you have to wait to warm up and cool down the car, have to crack open the motor if you want anything beyond 10psi, probably won't get more than 240whp reliably, low top speed of the stock Fit tranny, no LSD (unless you want to shell out an extra $1200)
K20Z3 (NA) = $7,000
pro: reliability of a stock motor, 200whp right out of the box, 6spd with LSD, will rev to 9k all day long with no problems while pulling hard with iVTEC, weighs only as much as a B18C, with just skunk2 stage 2 cams, valve springs, retainers, mild port and polish, i/e/h and a good tune will net you 270whp and like 170lb-ft of torque (something that the L15 can only dream of accomplishing.
cons: pricey, if anything brakes it'll cost more than the L15, poorer gas mileage (if you call 25mpg poor), makes the car a little nose heavy (but that's true about all previous hondas with B18 swaps and CRVtec swaps and those all resulted in fantastic track/street cars)
Sure, the L15 powered Fit of Aj-Racing was less than a second behind the N1-Concept K20 Fit, but have you guys looked at N1 concept's Fit? that thing is more of a show car, versus AjR's Fit which was practically built for Super Street Time Attack.
I'm all for trying to get as much power out of the L15 as possible, but i can't deny that, comparatively, a K20 swap is giving you just as much bang for your buck and does so with more power potential and the benefits of being NA. sure, you're paying an extra $2k for what appears to be a measly 20whp, but look at everything else you get for that $2k other than numbers.
now, using your argument. How do you justify almost $300 for a 2-3 whp gain? If you get your calculators out, you'll see you're paying $100 per hp where a K20 swap you're paying $67 ( 200whp - 95whp of the stock fit = 105. $7000/105whp = 66.6666 $/whp). Not only that, but with I/E/H on the fit, you're probably only going to see a gain of 11whp. Now, assuming you paid an average 300 for your intake, 600 for a T1R header, and 600 for their 50S exhaust, syou've just spent $1500 for 11whp (which is what T1R dyno'd their i/h/e w/ pulley at) you've just spent $136.36 per whp. Not just that, you've just hit the ceiling for the L15 with bolt-ons if you're going NA. If you want to extract more power you'd either have to sell your i/h and get a FI kit of some sort or crack open your motor and start building internals. Go that route, and you'll realize you've sooner spent over $7k than reached 200whp.
and you still don't have 6spd, LSD, and (if you went NA) torque. still think the K20's a waste?
Last edited by gotfitted; 09-27-2007 at 12:53 AM.
#31
no, you're right, it puts down 175whp in the new Civic Si. But when you swap it into your fit or any other car, you're usually going to use a swap header, exhaust and an intake which is included in the price of the swap. If you read SCC, they did an article on hasport's K20 fit and it put down 210whp with just a straight swap and the Civic Si put down like 180whp or something.
#32
Yes, it does throw off the balance a little, but so do B swaps into the older cars, but would you not agree that an EG with a B18C-R was still formidable as shit on the track? And not just that, the K20A is about the same weight as a B18 (the differences vary depending on who you ask, but i've seen someone measure a B20 and a K20 on a scale and the K20 was like..2 lbs heavier. Keep in mind that the B20 is basically a B18 bored out) And just because the car's balance i off by a bit, it doesn't mean that the car can't be a great track car
Here's a great example: Top Setup's K20 eg
YouTube - TOPSETUP EG6 vs S2000
YouTube - TOPSETUP EG6 vs XS WRX=
I read an article on top setup's car and they have very minimal modifactions made. All the car has is the stock K20A swap with i/e/h and the Tein Flex. Oh, and the car's stripped, but that's it.
The K20 fit will also be a capable car, despite the upset in weight distribution. you can always set up your suspension to minimalize the effects, plus, i bet you'll hardly notice the difference. It'll feel like you have a girl sitting on your hood, but her butt is somehow providing more power to compensate.
Here's a great example: Top Setup's K20 eg
YouTube - TOPSETUP EG6 vs S2000
YouTube - TOPSETUP EG6 vs XS WRX=
I read an article on top setup's car and they have very minimal modifactions made. All the car has is the stock K20A swap with i/e/h and the Tein Flex. Oh, and the car's stripped, but that's it.
The K20 fit will also be a capable car, despite the upset in weight distribution. you can always set up your suspension to minimalize the effects, plus, i bet you'll hardly notice the difference. It'll feel like you have a girl sitting on your hood, but her butt is somehow providing more power to compensate.
#33
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I think its a waste. Why ruin a brand new car? Kill the handling characteristics, kill the resale, and a few other things.
That motor is junk. Only good thing about that motor/car is the LSD. AND, the transmission isnt all that great because it lacks the awesome final gear like the 05-06 Type-S.
That Fit put down 210hp TUNED. The Si put down similar WHP but they think it was a dyno error because thats too much stock of course. That article made me laugh. That Fit barely beat that Si. COMPLETELY stock Si vs a K20 tuned Fit with suspension mods. I think its because they used that junk K20 motor. And also the weight distribution mishaps after the K20 swap.
If I were to swap my Fit, Id make it count. TSX motor with 05-06 Type-S trans. Intake, header, exhaust, flywheel, clutch, and a tune. Done deal.
Torque and power.
no, you're right, it puts down 175whp in the new Civic Si. But when you swap it into your fit or any other car, you're usually going to use a swap header, exhaust and an intake which is included in the price of the swap. If you read SCC, they did an article on hasport's K20 fit and it put down 210whp with just a straight swap and the Civic Si put down like 180whp or something.
That Fit put down 210hp TUNED. The Si put down similar WHP but they think it was a dyno error because thats too much stock of course. That article made me laugh. That Fit barely beat that Si. COMPLETELY stock Si vs a K20 tuned Fit with suspension mods. I think its because they used that junk K20 motor. And also the weight distribution mishaps after the K20 swap.
If I were to swap my Fit, Id make it count. TSX motor with 05-06 Type-S trans. Intake, header, exhaust, flywheel, clutch, and a tune. Done deal.
Torque and power.
#34
I see agruments about hp and trq. Don't forget there is the option for a final gear ratio change in the Fit. A bit pricey ($600-1000) but it makes the Fit get off the line faster. The Fit will never have a high top speed anyway... Not everything is about horsepower.
#35
I think its a waste. Why ruin a brand new car? Kill the handling characteristics, kill the resale, and a few other things.
That motor is junk. Only good thing about that motor/car is the LSD. AND, the transmission isnt all that great because it lacks the awesome final gear like the 05-06 Type-S.
That Fit put down 210hp TUNED. The Si put down similar WHP but they think it was a dyno error because thats too much stock of course. That article made me laugh. That Fit barely beat that Si. COMPLETELY stock Si vs a K20 tuned Fit with suspension mods. I think its because they used that junk K20 motor. And also the weight distribution mishaps after the K20 swap.
If I were to swap my Fit, Id make it count. TSX motor with 05-06 Type-S trans. Intake, header, exhaust, flywheel, clutch, and a tune. Done deal.
Torque and power.
That motor is junk. Only good thing about that motor/car is the LSD. AND, the transmission isnt all that great because it lacks the awesome final gear like the 05-06 Type-S.
That Fit put down 210hp TUNED. The Si put down similar WHP but they think it was a dyno error because thats too much stock of course. That article made me laugh. That Fit barely beat that Si. COMPLETELY stock Si vs a K20 tuned Fit with suspension mods. I think its because they used that junk K20 motor. And also the weight distribution mishaps after the K20 swap.
If I were to swap my Fit, Id make it count. TSX motor with 05-06 Type-S trans. Intake, header, exhaust, flywheel, clutch, and a tune. Done deal.
Torque and power.
The K24a2 is a nice motor, but it lacks the flow capacity of the K20 and also its VTC is only adjustable up to 15degrees vs the 50 degrees on the K20 head, that's why everyone has the K20/24 frank. I've seen two identical DC2's one with a K20 and another with the K24, and while the K24 equiped DC2 took off on the K20 right out of a turn, the K20 pulled on the K24 at the end of each straight.
You complained that a K20 swap kills the handling characteristics, well, let me show you a video where a K20 fit set faster time laps against two DC5's, a K20 ek, and a MR-S with a K20 swap:
YouTube - k20a challenge part 1
YouTube - k20a battle part 2
YouTube - k20a battle part 3
Ok, so yea, the Fit finished 2nd to last during the 5 lap battle, but i think its the time attack that counts . I jacked this off someone on this forum, i can't remember who, might've been gettinafit...who ever it is, thanks!
As far as the final drive difference btwn the Z1 and the Z3 tranny, i can't really put up an argument cuz i don't know what final drive on either are ^_^;;; but i know the LSD helps out in the handling dept an extreme amount. I don't know about you, but i'm a canyon running kinda guy and i'd rather have an LSD than a (insert the diff. btwn the Z1 and Z3 final gear here). I mean look at it this way, wouldn't you rather be able to get on the throttle earlier in the turn and rocket out of it?
Lets compromise, you and I. Let us agree to disagree, but agree that the K20/24 frank equiped with a Z1 tranny with an LSD is superior to both the K20 and K24 alone.
If you want to keep arguing about the K20, go to honda tech, they've already got on going threads about K20 vs K24 and this tranny and that tranny and what's the best set up. In my opinion, its all subjective.
anyways, let us get back to what this thread was about before this huge K20 digression: the CF intake from Password
#36
Ok, lets see what's worth what:
L15A (boosted, because going NA is stupid with this motor)
10psi FI kit (Any kit be it JRSC, HKS, T1R) = about $5,000 for about 180wph
pro: Decent MPG, light set up, cheap to fix if you blow anything up
con: (for turbos) now you have to wait to warm up and cool down the car, have to crack open the motor if you want anything beyond 10psi, probably won't get more than 240whp reliably, low top speed of the stock Fit tranny, no LSD (unless you want to shell out an extra $1200)
K20Z3 (NA) = $7,000
pro: reliability of a stock motor, 200whp right out of the box, 6spd with LSD, will rev to 9k all day long with no problems while pulling hard with iVTEC, weighs only as much as a B18C, with just skunk2 stage 2 cams, valve springs, retainers, mild port and polish, i/e/h and a good tune will net you 270whp and like 170lb-ft of torque (something that the L15 can only dream of accomplishing.
cons: pricey, if anything brakes it'll cost more than the L15, poorer gas mileage (if you call 25mpg poor), makes the car a little nose heavy (but that's true about all previous hondas with B18 swaps and CRVtec swaps and those all resulted in fantastic track/street cars)
Sure, the L15 powered Fit of Aj-Racing was less than a second behind the N1-Concept K20 Fit, but have you guys looked at N1 concept's Fit? that thing is more of a show car, versus AjR's Fit which was practically built for Super Street Time Attack.
I'm all for trying to get as much power out of the L15 as possible, but i can't deny that, comparatively, a K20 swap is giving you just as much bang for your buck and does so with more power potential and the benefits of being NA. sure, you're paying an extra $2k for what appears to be a measly 20whp, but look at everything else you get for that $2k other than numbers.
now, using your argument. How do you justify almost $300 for a 2-3 whp gain? If you get your calculators out, you'll see you're paying $100 per hp where a K20 swap you're paying $67 ( 200whp - 95whp of the stock fit = 105. $7000/105whp = 66.6666 $/whp). Not only that, but with I/E/H on the fit, you're probably only going to see a gain of 11whp. Now, assuming you paid an average 300 for your intake, 600 for a T1R header, and 600 for their 50S exhaust, syou've just spent $1500 for 11whp (which is what T1R dyno'd their i/h/e w/ pulley at) you've just spent $136.36 per whp. Not just that, you've just hit the ceiling for the L15 with bolt-ons if you're going NA. If you want to extract more power you'd either have to sell your i/h and get a FI kit of some sort or crack open your motor and start building internals. Go that route, and you'll realize you've sooner spent over $7k than reached 200whp.
and you still don't have 6spd, LSD, and (if you went NA) torque. still think the K20's a waste?
L15A (boosted, because going NA is stupid with this motor)
10psi FI kit (Any kit be it JRSC, HKS, T1R) = about $5,000 for about 180wph
pro: Decent MPG, light set up, cheap to fix if you blow anything up
con: (for turbos) now you have to wait to warm up and cool down the car, have to crack open the motor if you want anything beyond 10psi, probably won't get more than 240whp reliably, low top speed of the stock Fit tranny, no LSD (unless you want to shell out an extra $1200)
K20Z3 (NA) = $7,000
pro: reliability of a stock motor, 200whp right out of the box, 6spd with LSD, will rev to 9k all day long with no problems while pulling hard with iVTEC, weighs only as much as a B18C, with just skunk2 stage 2 cams, valve springs, retainers, mild port and polish, i/e/h and a good tune will net you 270whp and like 170lb-ft of torque (something that the L15 can only dream of accomplishing.
cons: pricey, if anything brakes it'll cost more than the L15, poorer gas mileage (if you call 25mpg poor), makes the car a little nose heavy (but that's true about all previous hondas with B18 swaps and CRVtec swaps and those all resulted in fantastic track/street cars)
Sure, the L15 powered Fit of Aj-Racing was less than a second behind the N1-Concept K20 Fit, but have you guys looked at N1 concept's Fit? that thing is more of a show car, versus AjR's Fit which was practically built for Super Street Time Attack.
I'm all for trying to get as much power out of the L15 as possible, but i can't deny that, comparatively, a K20 swap is giving you just as much bang for your buck and does so with more power potential and the benefits of being NA. sure, you're paying an extra $2k for what appears to be a measly 20whp, but look at everything else you get for that $2k other than numbers.
now, using your argument. How do you justify almost $300 for a 2-3 whp gain? If you get your calculators out, you'll see you're paying $100 per hp where a K20 swap you're paying $67 ( 200whp - 95whp of the stock fit = 105. $7000/105whp = 66.6666 $/whp). Not only that, but with I/E/H on the fit, you're probably only going to see a gain of 11whp. Now, assuming you paid an average 300 for your intake, 600 for a T1R header, and 600 for their 50S exhaust, syou've just spent $1500 for 11whp (which is what T1R dyno'd their i/h/e w/ pulley at) you've just spent $136.36 per whp. Not just that, you've just hit the ceiling for the L15 with bolt-ons if you're going NA. If you want to extract more power you'd either have to sell your i/h and get a FI kit of some sort or crack open your motor and start building internals. Go that route, and you'll realize you've sooner spent over $7k than reached 200whp.
and you still don't have 6spd, LSD, and (if you went NA) torque. still think the K20's a waste?
its still a waste of money, for 7k can you imagine what other car and none car related things? with 7k buy yourself a damn hatch strip it, b18 it and drag it for speed and keep your fit new under warranty and reliable, with a k20 you can kiss your warranty good bye so another reason why no real power adders are worth it on a brand new 85hp car and either way you damn sure arnt looking for power if you buy a fit. k20s are stupid anyway, boost a b16 and make the same power for less
these are my opinions so whatevs
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