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my fit hiccuping

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Old 07-30-2014 | 11:49 AM
SloEg701's Avatar
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my fit hiccuping

So when i first bought my car a month ago i wasn't annoyed by the hiccupping but now its getting annoying and I it will do it when I'm stopped and the stop sign or the lights. my wife and are planning to go back home to visit family but i don't want this car to brake down on us.
 
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Old 07-30-2014 | 12:39 PM
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This should be the ingnition coil(s). Easy change but going to cost you between $250 and $350 in parts. How many miles do you have?
 
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Old 07-30-2014 | 02:04 PM
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It has 123311 the car is used though
 
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Old 07-30-2014 | 06:29 PM
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It's most likely ignition coils, really common problem with the Fit's. I'm surprised your coils held up that long anyways.


250 dollars will get you OEM ignition coils from Rockauto, throw in 30 bucks for all 4 OEM spark plugs while you're at it.
 
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Old 07-30-2014 | 11:50 PM
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Ok cool does they have to be in order when i install them
 
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Old 07-31-2014 | 05:31 AM
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No order, all are identical.
 
  #7  
Old 07-31-2014 | 10:19 AM
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Before doing anything I would try to scan the OBD 2 to see if there are some "soft" or pending codes.
 
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Old 07-31-2014 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by doctor J
Before doing anything I would try to scan the OBD 2 to see if there are some "soft" or pending codes.
I have a similar issue. Utilized my stepdad's OBD 2 scanner and everything came back clean despite the fact the Fit stutters at stoplights. After digging through various posts on here and reaching out to my crappy Honda dealer, I just said screw it and am going to do it myself.

Literally, just today, I purchased online: I'm already at $250. $350 less than what the dealer was quoting me just for the coils themselves (and that was before labor).

I am going to AutoZone either today or tomorrow to pick up some dielectric grease and fuel injector fluid. My Amazon order should be here by Saturday with my RockAuto order being sometime during the middle of next week. I plan on getting everything taken care of the moment I have all the parts on hand.

Here's a good link on how to DIY: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...?ref=ccm-int-2 (I've already been informed NOT to use Anti-Seize or other lubrication for the plugs themselves).
 
  #9  
Old 07-31-2014 | 09:42 PM
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Larry Carley (2010), the author of Underhood Service wrote an article explaining how OBD-2 catches misfire and sets code:
With OBD II, there’s no missing misfires. Most engine control systems with OBD II monitor the speed of the crankshaft between cylinder firings to detect misfires. The powertrain control module (PCM) notes the relative position of the crankshaft via the crankshaft position sensor (CKP) each time a trigger pulse is sent to the ignition system. If the crankshaft does not rotate a certain number of degrees between cylinder firings, the change in rotational velocity indicates a misfire must have occurred.

Blind Logic
Any misfires that are detected are recorded and tracked over time. If the rate of misfires exceeds a certain threshold, the OBD II logic is programmed to log it as a potential emissions failure and set a misfire fault code. The check engine light comes on and a P030X is set where X corresponds to the cylinder that is misfiring.

A code P0302, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. If more than one cylinder is misfiring, there will be additional codes for those cylinders as well. And if a misfire is random and jumps from cylinder to cylinder, you may find a P0300 random misfire code.

On most applications, OBD II uses a “block learn” strategy to track misfires. Any misfires that occur are recorded every 200 revolutions of the crankshaft. The tally is stored in 16 memory blocks, so every 3,200 rpm the misfire count starts over again.

As long as the number of misfires in any given memory block remains below a certain value, there is no problem and OBD II gives that block a “pass” rating. But if the number of misfires in that block is too high, the block receives a “fail” rating. By averaging the pass/fail ratings of all 16 blocks, the OBD II system gets the big picture of what’s actually going on. This helps avoid the setting of false misfire codes, and also allows the system to spot pattern misfires that may cause an increase in emissions or damage to the catalytic converter.

One of the drawbacks of using a crank sensor to detect misfires is that it can sometimes be fooled by normal powertrain vibrations. Driving on a rough road, for example, may produce variations in crank speed that seem like misfires but are not. Some OBD II systems monitor inputs from the ABS wheel speed sensors to tell when a vehicle is driving on a rough road, and disable misfire detection until the road smoothes out.

The OBD II system is usually programmed to ignore misfires when the engine is cranking, and when a cold engine is first started. It will also ignore misfires during decel when the fuel is momentarily cut off. In most cases, a misfire problem will set a pending code on the first trip, but won’t turn on the check engine light or set a hard code until the second trip if the misfire problem continues.

The OBD II misfire monitor is normally active when a warm engine is running under normal loads, but it may not track misfires if other fault codes are present or codes are pending for the fuel system, evaporative emission control (EVAP) system or EGR system.

One very important point to keep in mind about OBD II misfire detection is that the system does not tell you why the engine is misfiring. OBD II can give you an exact count of the misfires cylinder by cylinder (which you can find in Mode $06 with a scan tool), but it can’t tell you what’s causing the misfires.
Source: Tech Feature: Detecting Misfires in OBD II Engines
A quick dirty method is to reduce spark plug gap (let say from 1.1 to0.8 mm and see if engine will behave better.
If so the fault is in ignition system.
While Fit is too young to have major problems needed valve job I recently saw 2001 Corolla with new OEM coils and premium spark plugs with persisted dead misfire in #3 cylinder that turned to be leaking burned exhaust valve.
 
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