Thanks man!

 

it might have popped up earlier in the thread, but a good way to solve the rough idle problem is to adjust the valve clearances (lashes or whatever you want to call it).

I unnecessarily replaced the spark plugs and coil packs, thinking that's what it is. $250 later I was in square 1. Then I adjusted the valves (total cost = 1 beer and 1.5h) and the problem went away. I'm getting 3 extra miles per gallon and got some of the long lost power back.

 

Hi Everyone, I'm new to Fit Freak, and I don't know alot about cars. I'd appreciate your help so I can doublecheck my understanding of what's been posted in this thread. Based on what I read in post #60, I don't need to do an idle relearn if only the battery was changed. Is that correct?

I'm also beginning to doubt my decision to replace my car battery (see below background). Your thoughts?

Background

On 1/16/2022 my car battery died. There was enough juice for the interior light, radio, driver window raising/lowering, and headlights. When, I tried to start the car, I heard rapid clicking and some of the MILs came on. I wasn't able to contact AAA until 1/24/2022 for a variety of reasons. The AAA Technician tested my battery (11.9 volts and 18% life left) and was able to jump start the car. I opted to change out the battery because of its age (9.7 yrs old), the cold Bay Area weather, and the fact that I'm not driving the car very often due to the pandemic (1x/1-3 weeks). I bought my 2012 Honda Fit A/T Base in 5/2012. As of 1/24/2022, it has 75972 miles.