p2647 - Requesting some Quick Advice.
#1
p2647 - Requesting some Quick Advice.
Quick Specs:
2008 Honda Fit Sport
A/T
56300 miles
So 3 days ago I had the dreaded p2647 recard the rocker arm oil pressure switch for the vtec - womp womp
---
Day 1 - Driving at 65 down the highway when this occured, killing my cruise control.
---
Day 1.5 - Having to deal with a hectic weekend, I decided to feather my throttle my way to work hoping my car wasn't already in "limp-home" mode. I had one misfire occur as I decided to get the problem code from autozone right before work. Of course I went on my merry way feathering my throttle as to not initiate my vtec and hopefully not cause any more harm to the engine.
---
Day 2 - Left car in garage and took another car to run errands.
---
Day 2.5 - I had my cousin (mechanic) check out the selonoid only to have the problem "fix" itself. CEL was still on but cruise control was now active. We test drove the car to see if my Fit was still choking at the 3.5k - 4k RPM range, surprisingly enough, it wasn't. We went into Sports mode to see if vtec was properly kicking in the lower gears, which it did. We checked the wirings to see if they were in bad condition - they were fine.
---
Day 2.9 - At the end of the day we pulled out the oil switch and cleaned it up just to be safe and did my oil change as it was due in 50 miles or so anyways.
---
Day 3 - As of right now, I had checked up with the dealership to see if my extended warranty was still active, which it is. Unfortunately, as a college student I don't have the money to dish out even the deductible until I get my bonus from work, (considering I still have to deal with the deductible and the deposit for a loaner even tho I get it back after I bring it back in, don't want to overdraft) :P
However, I HAVE checked for the part itself online and noticed it wasn't at a bad price.
Part Detail
Group 10 for assembly --> 12 for the switch.
- So anyways, to the point - Would the problem pertain primarily to the switch itself or is it safer to replace the whole assembly?
- While I'm not a professional mechanic, I do have a firm grasp of basic vehicle maintenance and such, If I were to DIY this, will it be hard or a particularly easy task? Some of the research I've done in this forum kinda makes me think it's not to hard to remove/install...
It's in the morning and I'm still tired so I'll ask more questions after I get a response. lol.
Thanks in advance guys!
2008 Honda Fit Sport
A/T
56300 miles
So 3 days ago I had the dreaded p2647 recard the rocker arm oil pressure switch for the vtec - womp womp
---
Day 1 - Driving at 65 down the highway when this occured, killing my cruise control.
---
Day 1.5 - Having to deal with a hectic weekend, I decided to feather my throttle my way to work hoping my car wasn't already in "limp-home" mode. I had one misfire occur as I decided to get the problem code from autozone right before work. Of course I went on my merry way feathering my throttle as to not initiate my vtec and hopefully not cause any more harm to the engine.
---
Day 2 - Left car in garage and took another car to run errands.
---
Day 2.5 - I had my cousin (mechanic) check out the selonoid only to have the problem "fix" itself. CEL was still on but cruise control was now active. We test drove the car to see if my Fit was still choking at the 3.5k - 4k RPM range, surprisingly enough, it wasn't. We went into Sports mode to see if vtec was properly kicking in the lower gears, which it did. We checked the wirings to see if they were in bad condition - they were fine.
---
Day 2.9 - At the end of the day we pulled out the oil switch and cleaned it up just to be safe and did my oil change as it was due in 50 miles or so anyways.
---
Day 3 - As of right now, I had checked up with the dealership to see if my extended warranty was still active, which it is. Unfortunately, as a college student I don't have the money to dish out even the deductible until I get my bonus from work, (considering I still have to deal with the deductible and the deposit for a loaner even tho I get it back after I bring it back in, don't want to overdraft) :P
However, I HAVE checked for the part itself online and noticed it wasn't at a bad price.
Part Detail
Group 10 for assembly --> 12 for the switch.
- So anyways, to the point - Would the problem pertain primarily to the switch itself or is it safer to replace the whole assembly?
- While I'm not a professional mechanic, I do have a firm grasp of basic vehicle maintenance and such, If I were to DIY this, will it be hard or a particularly easy task? Some of the research I've done in this forum kinda makes me think it's not to hard to remove/install...
It's in the morning and I'm still tired so I'll ask more questions after I get a response. lol.
Thanks in advance guys!
#2
I had this problem in mine recently. out of nothing, the check engine light came on and my revs were limited to about 3800 rpm. i tried resetting by unplugging the battery, checked for oil and all seemed fine, but light still on and revs still limited.
took it to a mechanic who found the code and told me about the rocker arm stuck on bank 1. so I started to look for a replacement for the switch.
but out of nothing, one day i left it parked and when i went back to the car the light did not come back on and the rev limit was gone. the only different thing that happened that day was that the car was left out under the sun.
it's been 3 weeks now and the issue has not happened again, so I have no clue what could have triggered it.
took it to a mechanic who found the code and told me about the rocker arm stuck on bank 1. so I started to look for a replacement for the switch.
but out of nothing, one day i left it parked and when i went back to the car the light did not come back on and the rev limit was gone. the only different thing that happened that day was that the car was left out under the sun.
it's been 3 weeks now and the issue has not happened again, so I have no clue what could have triggered it.
#3
Quick Specs:
2008 Honda Fit Sport
A/T
56300 miles
So 3 days ago I had the dreaded p2647 recard the rocker arm oil pressure switch for the vtec - womp womp
---
Day 1 - Driving at 65 down the highway when this occured, killing my cruise control.
---
Day 1.5 - Having to deal with a hectic weekend, I decided to feather my throttle my way to work hoping my car wasn't already in "limp-home" mode. I had one misfire occur as I decided to get the problem code from autozone right before work. Of course I went on my merry way feathering my throttle as to not initiate my vtec and hopefully not cause any more harm to the engine.
---
Day 2 - Left car in garage and took another car to run errands.
---
Day 2.5 - I had my cousin (mechanic) check out the selonoid only to have the problem "fix" itself. CEL was still on but cruise control was now active. We test drove the car to see if my Fit was still choking at the 3.5k - 4k RPM range, surprisingly enough, it wasn't. We went into Sports mode to see if vtec was properly kicking in the lower gears, which it did. We checked the wirings to see if they were in bad condition - they were fine.
---
Day 2.9 - At the end of the day we pulled out the oil switch and cleaned it up just to be safe and did my oil change as it was due in 50 miles or so anyways.
---
Day 3 - As of right now, I had checked up with the dealership to see if my extended warranty was still active, which it is. Unfortunately, as a college student I don't have the money to dish out even the deductible until I get my bonus from work, (considering I still have to deal with the deductible and the deposit for a loaner even tho I get it back after I bring it back in, don't want to overdraft) :P
However, I HAVE checked for the part itself online and noticed it wasn't at a bad price.
Part Detail
Group 10 for assembly --> 12 for the switch.
- So anyways, to the point - Would the problem pertain primarily to the switch itself or is it safer to replace the whole assembly?
- While I'm not a professional mechanic, I do have a firm grasp of basic vehicle maintenance and such, If I were to DIY this, will it be hard or a particularly easy task? Some of the research I've done in this forum kinda makes me think it's not to hard to remove/install...
It's in the morning and I'm still tired so I'll ask more questions after I get a response. lol.
Thanks in advance guys!
2008 Honda Fit Sport
A/T
56300 miles
So 3 days ago I had the dreaded p2647 recard the rocker arm oil pressure switch for the vtec - womp womp
---
Day 1 - Driving at 65 down the highway when this occured, killing my cruise control.
---
Day 1.5 - Having to deal with a hectic weekend, I decided to feather my throttle my way to work hoping my car wasn't already in "limp-home" mode. I had one misfire occur as I decided to get the problem code from autozone right before work. Of course I went on my merry way feathering my throttle as to not initiate my vtec and hopefully not cause any more harm to the engine.
---
Day 2 - Left car in garage and took another car to run errands.
---
Day 2.5 - I had my cousin (mechanic) check out the selonoid only to have the problem "fix" itself. CEL was still on but cruise control was now active. We test drove the car to see if my Fit was still choking at the 3.5k - 4k RPM range, surprisingly enough, it wasn't. We went into Sports mode to see if vtec was properly kicking in the lower gears, which it did. We checked the wirings to see if they were in bad condition - they were fine.
---
Day 2.9 - At the end of the day we pulled out the oil switch and cleaned it up just to be safe and did my oil change as it was due in 50 miles or so anyways.
---
Day 3 - As of right now, I had checked up with the dealership to see if my extended warranty was still active, which it is. Unfortunately, as a college student I don't have the money to dish out even the deductible until I get my bonus from work, (considering I still have to deal with the deductible and the deposit for a loaner even tho I get it back after I bring it back in, don't want to overdraft) :P
However, I HAVE checked for the part itself online and noticed it wasn't at a bad price.
Part Detail
Group 10 for assembly --> 12 for the switch.
- So anyways, to the point - Would the problem pertain primarily to the switch itself or is it safer to replace the whole assembly?
- While I'm not a professional mechanic, I do have a firm grasp of basic vehicle maintenance and such, If I were to DIY this, will it be hard or a particularly easy task? Some of the research I've done in this forum kinda makes me think it's not to hard to remove/install...
It's in the morning and I'm still tired so I'll ask more questions after I get a response. lol.
Thanks in advance guys!
#4
Glad to see such productive post appear to fix my typo... facepalm. Can't be a great pokemon master to catch them all I guess lol.
I had this problem in mine recently. out of nothing, the check engine light came on and my revs were limited to about 3800 rpm. i tried resetting by unplugging the battery, checked for oil and all seemed fine, but light still on and revs still limited.
took it to a mechanic who found the code and told me about the rocker arm stuck on bank 1. so I started to look for a replacement for the switch.
but out of nothing, one day i left it parked and when i went back to the car the light did not come back on and the rev limit was gone. the only different thing that happened that day was that the car was left out under the sun.
it's been 3 weeks now and the issue has not happened again, so I have no clue what could have triggered it.
Interesting that it even happened. I didn't want to unplug the battery just in case I had any more mechanics check for the code itself. It's kind of odd that you left yours out, parked for a day as I also did the same...
For now, I held off buying the switch, but I did open up the whole assembly and checked the O-rings and gasket and they were still in good condition, nor was there any blockage/residue that would had hindered my 4th cylinder to start kicking... I'll probably have my cousin check the wiring a little more carefully just to be safe.
Worse case I'll replace the whole damn thing and not worry about the problem happen again.
Originally Posted by FlyingHonda
I had this problem in mine recently. out of nothing, the check engine light came on and my revs were limited to about 3800 rpm. i tried resetting by unplugging the battery, checked for oil and all seemed fine, but light still on and revs still limited.
took it to a mechanic who found the code and told me about the rocker arm stuck on bank 1. so I started to look for a replacement for the switch.
but out of nothing, one day i left it parked and when i went back to the car the light did not come back on and the rev limit was gone. the only different thing that happened that day was that the car was left out under the sun.
it's been 3 weeks now and the issue has not happened again, so I have no clue what could have triggered it.
For now, I held off buying the switch, but I did open up the whole assembly and checked the O-rings and gasket and they were still in good condition, nor was there any blockage/residue that would had hindered my 4th cylinder to start kicking... I'll probably have my cousin check the wiring a little more carefully just to be safe.
Worse case I'll replace the whole damn thing and not worry about the problem happen again.
#5
I wasn't aware this was a common issue.
Mine did this last year out of the blue last year. Car went into limp mode. wouldn't rev past 4k.used my scan gauge and also had my buddy, who owns a shop, take a look at it. Same "rocker stuck on bank 1 etc". He cleared it and it's never manifested itself since. put almost 20k on it since then....not sure what to make of it really.
Mine did this last year out of the blue last year. Car went into limp mode. wouldn't rev past 4k.used my scan gauge and also had my buddy, who owns a shop, take a look at it. Same "rocker stuck on bank 1 etc". He cleared it and it's never manifested itself since. put almost 20k on it since then....not sure what to make of it really.
#6
I wasn't aware this was a common issue.
Mine did this last year out of the blue last year. Car went into limp mode. wouldn't rev past 4k.used my scan gauge and also had my buddy, who owns a shop, take a look at it. Same "rocker stuck on bank 1 etc". He cleared it and it's never manifested itself since. put almost 20k on it since then....not sure what to make of it really.
Mine did this last year out of the blue last year. Car went into limp mode. wouldn't rev past 4k.used my scan gauge and also had my buddy, who owns a shop, take a look at it. Same "rocker stuck on bank 1 etc". He cleared it and it's never manifested itself since. put almost 20k on it since then....not sure what to make of it really.
The removal and installation was easy as pie. Granted I have extended warranty, I didn't want to deal with having to set up an appointment and the downtime for something I replaced in 15 minutes lol.
I have my old vtec solenoid sitting around which I'll probably have my friend looked at and see if anything is wrong with the switch and/or internals. If it's still useable I'll probably just ebay it off.
1k miles on the new solenoid with my semi spirited driving and everything is working fine.
#7
i had a friend get me on the solenoid assembly for cheap, brand new and an OEM genuine.
The removal and installation was easy as pie. Granted I have extended warranty, I didn't want to deal with having to set up an appointment and the downtime for something I replaced in 15 minutes lol.
I have my old vtec solenoid sitting around which I'll probably have my friend looked at and see if anything is wrong with the switch and/or internals. If it's still useable I'll probably just ebay it off.
1k miles on the new solenoid with my semi spirited driving and everything is working fine.
The removal and installation was easy as pie. Granted I have extended warranty, I didn't want to deal with having to set up an appointment and the downtime for something I replaced in 15 minutes lol.
I have my old vtec solenoid sitting around which I'll probably have my friend looked at and see if anything is wrong with the switch and/or internals. If it's still useable I'll probably just ebay it off.
1k miles on the new solenoid with my semi spirited driving and everything is working fine.
Z
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