Fuel injector cleaning
#1
Fuel injector cleaning
Just wondering if anyone has used FI cleaner with their Fit? Just wanting to see if it might help fuel mileage a bit. I'm also going to try the Idle Learn Procedure which seems to have good results.
I've heard a lot of good things about Liqui Moly products.
I've heard a lot of good things about Liqui Moly products.
#2
You could use Chevron Techron in the gasoline to clean your injectors (be sure to follow the directions)
BUT
one of the most effective ways to keep your injectors clean is to "rev the engine through the gears" on occasion.
The high-RPM running increases the duty cycle of the injectors (they stay open longer) which kind of flushes them out.
If you have a base automatic (no paddle-shifters) you could hold the transmission in 2nd gear and run the engine near the red-line for a few seconds each month.
It's fun....
BUT
one of the most effective ways to keep your injectors clean is to "rev the engine through the gears" on occasion.
The high-RPM running increases the duty cycle of the injectors (they stay open longer) which kind of flushes them out.
If you have a base automatic (no paddle-shifters) you could hold the transmission in 2nd gear and run the engine near the red-line for a few seconds each month.
It's fun....
#3
Fit Fun - my Idle Learn Procedure
Yes, I do indulge my right foot every now and then! It's an '09 base automatic, 28k miles. I'll wind it up an on-ramp and not lift 'til I hit around 70. Shifts are around 6500 or so, she loves it and is quite happy! For only 1.5L normally aspirated, there is zero lag when you ask for it. Crisp response, with more than enough go-power. With average driving, city mpg gets me 31-32, hiway about 34-35 @ 70-75. I'm not super aggressive, but I will use power when req'd. This is on 87 regular, I don't bother with premium, never a ping.
Tonite I decided to give the Idle Learn procedure a go after reading up on it. Grabbed a 10mm wrench and removed the negative ground lead from the chassis. Did this instead of off the battery, as it's tricky making sure it goes back on tight on the post. Wait a couple mins to allow the ECU and all power to go dead, then reconnect the lead.
Hop in, key ON (position 2) wait 2 secs, start engine.
Hold @ 3,000 RPM for 5 mins, no load (all electric, A/C, lights OFF). I assume this is to fully heat the O2 sensor and bring the engine to full operating temp.
During this procedure, the car has an interesting diagnostic behavior. The revs will suddenly drop to a normal idle, but you're still holding the pedal! Even if you floor it before releasing it, the engine is at a perfect idle.
The first time this freaked me out, what's going on!?!?
What I think's happening, is one or more of the following, as part of the Idle Learning procedure:
(a) the O2 sensor has reached temp @ 3,000 RPM
(b) cooling fan has kicked on
(c) ECU auto-throttles RPM at end of test cycle
Next, I let it idle for 10 mins, minus the few times the cooling fan came on. Then shut the motor off, restarted it to check, fires up perfectly. Idle speed dropped slightly from 750 before to 600 after. Tomorrow I'm going on a 2 hour road trip, that will begin from a cold start and let it re-learn the driving cycles into the ECU. I'll see what the new mileage calcs out to on the next fill-up.
Tonite I decided to give the Idle Learn procedure a go after reading up on it. Grabbed a 10mm wrench and removed the negative ground lead from the chassis. Did this instead of off the battery, as it's tricky making sure it goes back on tight on the post. Wait a couple mins to allow the ECU and all power to go dead, then reconnect the lead.
Hop in, key ON (position 2) wait 2 secs, start engine.
Hold @ 3,000 RPM for 5 mins, no load (all electric, A/C, lights OFF). I assume this is to fully heat the O2 sensor and bring the engine to full operating temp.
During this procedure, the car has an interesting diagnostic behavior. The revs will suddenly drop to a normal idle, but you're still holding the pedal! Even if you floor it before releasing it, the engine is at a perfect idle.
The first time this freaked me out, what's going on!?!?
What I think's happening, is one or more of the following, as part of the Idle Learning procedure:
(a) the O2 sensor has reached temp @ 3,000 RPM
(b) cooling fan has kicked on
(c) ECU auto-throttles RPM at end of test cycle
Next, I let it idle for 10 mins, minus the few times the cooling fan came on. Then shut the motor off, restarted it to check, fires up perfectly. Idle speed dropped slightly from 750 before to 600 after. Tomorrow I'm going on a 2 hour road trip, that will begin from a cold start and let it re-learn the driving cycles into the ECU. I'll see what the new mileage calcs out to on the next fill-up.
#4
Yes, I do indulge my right foot every now and then! It's an '09 base automatic, 28k miles. I'll wind it up an on-ramp and not lift 'til I hit around 70. Shifts are around 6500 or so, she loves it and is quite happy! For only 1.5L normally aspirated, there is zero lag when you ask for it. Crisp response, with more than enough go-power. With average driving, city mpg gets me 31-32, hiway about 34-35 @ 70-75. I'm not super aggressive, but I will use power when req'd. This is on 87 regular, I don't bother with premium, never a ping.
Tonite I decided to give the Idle Learn procedure a go after reading up on it. Grabbed a 10mm wrench and removed the negative ground lead from the chassis. Did this instead of off the battery, as it's tricky making sure it goes back on tight on the post. Wait a couple mins to allow the ECU and all power to go dead, then reconnect the lead.
Hop in, key ON (position 2) wait 2 secs, start engine.
Hold @ 3,000 RPM for 5 mins, no load (all electric, A/C, lights OFF). I assume this is to fully heat the O2 sensor and bring the engine to full operating temp.
During this procedure, the car has an interesting diagnostic behavior. The revs will suddenly drop to a normal idle, but you're still holding the pedal! Even if you floor it before releasing it, the engine is at a perfect idle.
The first time this freaked me out, what's going on!?!?
What I think's happening, is one or more of the following, as part of the Idle Learning procedure:
(a) the O2 sensor has reached temp @ 3,000 RPM
(b) cooling fan has kicked on
(c) ECU auto-throttles RPM at end of test cycle
Next, I let it idle for 10 mins, minus the few times the cooling fan came on. Then shut the motor off, restarted it to check, fires up perfectly. Idle speed dropped slightly from 750 before to 600 after. Tomorrow I'm going on a 2 hour road trip, that will begin from a cold start and let it re-learn the driving cycles into the ECU. I'll see what the new mileage calcs out to on the next fill-up.
Tonite I decided to give the Idle Learn procedure a go after reading up on it. Grabbed a 10mm wrench and removed the negative ground lead from the chassis. Did this instead of off the battery, as it's tricky making sure it goes back on tight on the post. Wait a couple mins to allow the ECU and all power to go dead, then reconnect the lead.
Hop in, key ON (position 2) wait 2 secs, start engine.
Hold @ 3,000 RPM for 5 mins, no load (all electric, A/C, lights OFF). I assume this is to fully heat the O2 sensor and bring the engine to full operating temp.
During this procedure, the car has an interesting diagnostic behavior. The revs will suddenly drop to a normal idle, but you're still holding the pedal! Even if you floor it before releasing it, the engine is at a perfect idle.
The first time this freaked me out, what's going on!?!?
What I think's happening, is one or more of the following, as part of the Idle Learning procedure:
(a) the O2 sensor has reached temp @ 3,000 RPM
(b) cooling fan has kicked on
(c) ECU auto-throttles RPM at end of test cycle
Next, I let it idle for 10 mins, minus the few times the cooling fan came on. Then shut the motor off, restarted it to check, fires up perfectly. Idle speed dropped slightly from 750 before to 600 after. Tomorrow I'm going on a 2 hour road trip, that will begin from a cold start and let it re-learn the driving cycles into the ECU. I'll see what the new mileage calcs out to on the next fill-up.
In the previous im using the lucas FI cleaner but it's kindda ugly stuff. It contains a weird thick substance though in the commercial they have claimed that it burns hot to clean the combustion chambers that either create more poisonous oxides of nitrogen or just be counteracted by the EGR system. Lucas also claims that it lubricates the fuel injectors but would actually resulted to worst cases. Now im using the one most fit freakers are using and that is the one with chevron.
#5
Does anyone have a fuel injector replacement video. I found a Jazz written guide but I am not sure if it's all the same. I've had misfires for two months now. Took it to a few mechanics including Honda. I've had new spark plugs installed, new coil packs, valve adjustment done, fuel induction done, they did an engine compression test (was fine), fuel sample (nothing wrong), so then they wanted to do the fuel injectors. It was expensive so I decided to tackle that. Got OE beck arnley reman injectors and installed them. Was running fine for about 30 min than I decided to fill up and added an injector cleaner. Well then the misfires started again. Maybe I missed a step..? I dunno.. Spent lots of time on everything than money on the same stuff I've done and now I'm tapping out. Help please. Thanks! Ps. 2007 honda fit sport MT with 166k miles. This is the guide I found http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/95/SAA2E95A20326927801KBAT00.HTML
Last edited by makufit; 03-23-2014 at 06:01 AM.
#7
If I'm not mistaken, I read a wright-up on the full build-up of the Jazz's 1.3L DGI motor and the L15 VTEC/i-VTEC on VTEC.net's Japanese page. It stated that the L15 was made to run on 95 Octane which is the lowest octane in Japan. Has anyone noticed the compression ratio of the L15? 10.4 to 1. From reading this. I'm gonna run 93 octane from the start. The article also state this engine had knocking/detonation problems at first. I'll better safe than sorry. Also the L15 should make more power in a linear fashion whether peak hp stays the same or not. It was designed to run on 95 which not only Japan uses as low octane but europe too. Happy sunday guys.
#8
Look up the octane measurement for the US and Japan. Specifically look up RON, MON, and the US standard of RON + MON /2 also known as antiknock index or AKI.
After you have digested that, you will see that the octane numbers that you are comparing are not the same. I did not look, but try Wikipedia under "octane" or "octane rating" or "octane measurement". They usually have pretty good semi-technical explanations.
Someone else looked this up and sent it to me off line. So I am adding it to this posting.
Look in the US version of the Honda Fit Owner's manual.
Here is one for 2013: Look at page 186 first bullet.
http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/inf...13/Fit/manuals
It says to use 87 octane or higher.
After you have digested that, you will see that the octane numbers that you are comparing are not the same. I did not look, but try Wikipedia under "octane" or "octane rating" or "octane measurement". They usually have pretty good semi-technical explanations.
Someone else looked this up and sent it to me off line. So I am adding it to this posting.
Look in the US version of the Honda Fit Owner's manual.
Here is one for 2013: Look at page 186 first bullet.
http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/inf...13/Fit/manuals
It says to use 87 octane or higher.
Last edited by n9cv; 03-23-2014 at 07:46 PM.
#10
When Techron was introduced in the 80's it was nothing but pure naphtha, which is a good solvent. No idea if they tweaked the formula. I've had Hondas go 160K+ miles without ever using cleaner and had no injector issues or rough idle.
#11
Same here 155K miles no cleaner or injector maintenance of any kind {except religious use of Top Tier gasoline brands, mostly Shell and BP (only since BP became Top Tier)}.
Last edited by spreadhead; 05-09-2014 at 11:12 AM.
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