replacing 07 coil packs
#21
ouch... one of my bolt was really tough to get it out too.
you can take off the cover, first remove the intake arm and the box mechnism.
then you remove the black plastic intake that sits on top of the engine.
after that you should have more room to work on the backside... but still, i don't think it would be wise to dremel it out with the cover opened up like that, not to mention the space is still pretty tight even after you removed all that stuff.
best is to take the head out, put it on the bench and carefully take out the bolt?
my Fit still misfire at idle randomly sometimes... still don't want to replace the coilpack, so expensive... ugh
you can take off the cover, first remove the intake arm and the box mechnism.
then you remove the black plastic intake that sits on top of the engine.
after that you should have more room to work on the backside... but still, i don't think it would be wise to dremel it out with the cover opened up like that, not to mention the space is still pretty tight even after you removed all that stuff.
best is to take the head out, put it on the bench and carefully take out the bolt?
my Fit still misfire at idle randomly sometimes... still don't want to replace the coilpack, so expensive... ugh
#22
Unless there's a reason to replace the coilpacks, I would just clean them. That's what I did and the hiccuping is gone. To clean, just pull the boot from the headpiece and use needlenose pliers to get the spring on the headpiece side out. Take some rubbing alcohol and clean everything with a Q-tip. Let dry completely, then apply some dielectric grease on all of the contact points. Reassemble, reinstall, and you are good to go.
#23
Unless there's a reason to replace the coilpacks, I would just clean them. That's what I did and the hiccuping is gone. To clean, just pull the boot from the headpiece and use needlenose pliers to get the spring on the headpiece side out. Take some rubbing alcohol and clean everything with a Q-tip. Let dry completely, then apply some dielectric grease on all of the contact points. Reassemble, reinstall, and you are good to go.
Thanks
#24
Remove the coilpack from the engine. Grab the shaft with one hand, hold the headpiece with the other, and pull apart. You may have to bend the shaft back and forth while pulling. When you separate the two parts, you will see a second spring coming out of the shaft. That spring was coated with a white powdery substance that I cleaned off and it does come out if you grab it with needlenose pliers. You will see a fuse looking thing on the other end of the spring. On the headpiece side, wet a Q-tip with alcohol and clean the nipple. Dry completely, and apply dielectric grease. I cleaned and applied grease on all of the contact points (both ends of the fuse thing, both ends of the second spring, the nipple, and the 3 prongs of the connector).
#26
I thought so too, but it's held in by a rubber boot. The rubber is soft enough to stretch to get the shaft out, and I think that may be a part of the problem. Other posts have suggested that you get moisture inside that causes the corrosion. I have not seen the newly-designed coils, but apparently there are ventilation holes now. But before I spend $65 each on new ones, I'm happy to spend the hour cleaning all four of the old ones.
#27
thanks for the replies guys.
code - i managed to hold the coil in place. i got longer bolts for coil 1 and 3, held them in place by tightening a nut, and used a mending plate across coil 2. tighten bolts on coil and 1 and 3 to create pressure to hold down coil 2.....kinda like a ghetto battery tie down.
kinosh - thanks for the tip, but i opted to replace the coils....3 of the 4 were brownish and had cracks on the rubber boot....so i decided to get 4 new ones. only one coil looked like it was brand new.
NOW....here is my further problem. the reason i considered new coils was because the car's RPMs would go so low at idling that the car would turn off. if i were to drive and hit a stop sign/light, the RPMs would drop so low the car would shut off. i will search the forums to see if anyone else had this problem even after changing plugs and coils to see if they came up with a solution. with that said, has anyone encounter this problem? granted....this problem "goes away" after warming up the car for about 15-20 minutes....yes....its a long time....i know. any idea or clues to solving this mystery would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance guys!!
code - i managed to hold the coil in place. i got longer bolts for coil 1 and 3, held them in place by tightening a nut, and used a mending plate across coil 2. tighten bolts on coil and 1 and 3 to create pressure to hold down coil 2.....kinda like a ghetto battery tie down.
kinosh - thanks for the tip, but i opted to replace the coils....3 of the 4 were brownish and had cracks on the rubber boot....so i decided to get 4 new ones. only one coil looked like it was brand new.
NOW....here is my further problem. the reason i considered new coils was because the car's RPMs would go so low at idling that the car would turn off. if i were to drive and hit a stop sign/light, the RPMs would drop so low the car would shut off. i will search the forums to see if anyone else had this problem even after changing plugs and coils to see if they came up with a solution. with that said, has anyone encounter this problem? granted....this problem "goes away" after warming up the car for about 15-20 minutes....yes....its a long time....i know. any idea or clues to solving this mystery would be very appreciated. Thanks in advance guys!!
#28
I am not sure if this apply to the Fit, but I have an Integra (for about 12 years and going), and Integra have this common problem with the Fast Idle Control Valve, that could get clogged/dirty or not functioning properly over the years. If the Fit has similar mechanism, i'd suggest you take it out and clean it.
Because it sound like when your car is cold, the valve doesn't open up (when it opens up, more air goes it, hence your rpm goes up when you first start up the car).
Because it sound like when your car is cold, the valve doesn't open up (when it opens up, more air goes it, hence your rpm goes up when you first start up the car).
#30
hearing that.....sigh....makes me feel like i did my job....i got your attention somehow, lol.
code - thanks man...i will look into that. its frustrating when yuo think you have the problem nailed and its something else instead. my baby has 120k on her.....so installing new coils didnt "hurt" me. the fact that i still have this rough idle/engine turning off problem irks me more. i will continue to search and tinker with her....i will post my findings once - and if - i manage to fix the issue.
code - thanks man...i will look into that. its frustrating when yuo think you have the problem nailed and its something else instead. my baby has 120k on her.....so installing new coils didnt "hurt" me. the fact that i still have this rough idle/engine turning off problem irks me more. i will continue to search and tinker with her....i will post my findings once - and if - i manage to fix the issue.
#31
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...-solution.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...e-stutter.html
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...lling-out.html
#34
edit: shit, is some stupid viglink crap.
Last edited by codenamezero; 11-27-2012 at 06:04 PM.
#37
hearing that.....sigh....makes me feel like i did my job....i got your attention somehow, lol.
code - thanks man...i will look into that. its frustrating when yuo think you have the problem nailed and its something else instead. my baby has 120k on her.....so installing new coils didnt "hurt" me. the fact that i still have this rough idle/engine turning off problem irks me more. i will continue to search and tinker with her....i will post my findings once - and if - i manage to fix the issue.
code - thanks man...i will look into that. its frustrating when yuo think you have the problem nailed and its something else instead. my baby has 120k on her.....so installing new coils didnt "hurt" me. the fact that i still have this rough idle/engine turning off problem irks me more. i will continue to search and tinker with her....i will post my findings once - and if - i manage to fix the issue.
#38
geek - any luck with the adjustment? i was going to attempt it this weekend, but didnt have to time....i'd like to allot myself at least 6hrs - i want to take my time as it will be my first time - but couldnt get it this weekend with holiday shopping and putting up stupid decorations. i was hoping to find a DIY video so i can see what im getting myself into...but havent found any. i've just been reading the links provided by Subie....its better than nothing, lol.
#39
geek - any luck with the adjustment? i was going to attempt it this weekend, but didnt have to time....i'd like to allot myself at least 6hrs - i want to take my time as it will be my first time - but couldnt get it this weekend with holiday shopping and putting up stupid decorations. i was hoping to find a DIY video so i can see what im getting myself into...but havent found any. i've just been reading the links provided by Subie....its better than nothing, lol.
#40
oh shyt....my fault bro....i should check the dates on these things, lol. i didnt notice your post time. i found this in another fitfreak thread - https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...-download.html - i cant download it at work - site is blocked and not sure if it still exist, so i apologize if im giving you a dead link.