In case anyone needed the OEM part #s here they are:

Upper - 36531-RME-A01

Lower - 36532-RME-A01

Cheapest I could find them for was $189.57 on Majestic Honda - Parts & Accessories | Honda Replacement Parts Warwick | Discount Auto Parts in Warwick

 

Great that you found those. I went on the site to look at them. I couldn't find them on the dropdown list under o2, emissions, sensors, oxygen, etc. How did you ever find them?

 

You can finder the upper sensor in "Exhaust Manifold" and the lower on I the "Exhaust Pipe - Muffler."

 

Thanks, that's real useful information.

 

These are mine:

O2 Sensor Audi Citroen Mercedes Fiat Ford VW 0258986615 | eBay

Lambdasonde - HONDA Jazz ab 3/02 |OX 104 | eBay

They work greatly and, above all, you can save your money.....

 

Some good news about the oxygen sensor that went bad on my Honda Fit with 23,000 miles on it. I took my complaint to national Honda and explained that I was disappointed about having incurred such a whopping bill on a car with so few miles. They asked a series of questions: Was I the single owner? Yes. Did I take the car to my Honda dealer for regular checkups? Yes. What was the process I underwent at the local Honda service department to fix the problem, etc. etc. After answering this series of questions, Honda national said they would take my case to a committee for discussion and that in a few days the local Honda service manager would let me know their decision about awarding a possible discount. Sure enough, about 4 days later, the local Honda service manager called me and said Honda national would refund me 1/2 the cost of the new oxygen sensor. Last week, the refund check arrived. So, I suppose I'm leading up to a moral of the story: if and when you think something is awry in your bill or something about it just doesn't sit right with you, take a proactive stand and see if there is some recourse at your Honda dealer, who will give you an 800 phone number for their national customer service department. You can state your case and see if the Honda gods are with you when you ask for a discount, refund, etc.

 

^^^one of the best posts I've seen^^^

 

Some more good news about having a new oxygen sensor installed. Am now getting at least 4 more miles to the gallon.

 

Hey guys, Here is an important fact that could save you money with this problem. I had the codes pop up too ( P1172 / P2A00 ) It looks all repaired.

I had à hard talk with Honda dealer and at the end, they found a « Bulletin de service » about those two codes ( P1172 / P2A00 ). There is enought problems with the Honda Fit to make « bulletin de service » but not enought for a recall. Whats interesting, is that if you are in a certain serial number range you might get the repairs under a 8 year warenty service. Sadly, i was not in that range and it cost me about 400$ to change the front oxygen sensor. The part is over 300$.
I told the dealer to give me the old epace back and if any one has a Honda Fit, you can get this part on Amazone for a ridiculus low price.
Here is whats ritten on my A/F sensor ( honda part)
DU5 / Denso / 11200-2380 / 12H26 / Japan
I hope this can help someone and spare them a lot of money.


In order, this is what happened with my honda fit 2007:

1. The automatic transmition starts to feel wierd at 100-120km after an 1h30 drive. No check engin light. People (including dealer) suggests me to change transmission oil. Needed to be changed soon anyways.
I change the transmission oil.

2. The problem percist and more often and check engin lights turns on with code...
P0847 Transmission fluid Pressure sensor / switch B Circut low.
The dealer and friends suggest to change the B switch. The part is about 70$ +3/4h to change. (very acessible, could of done it myself.)

3. The problem percist even greater (aparently not during the test drive after the job was done) and the check engin light came back on right away. I just had made it scaned by my friend and not here are the codes...
P1172 1. A/F Sensor S4 circuit out of range high.
2. A/F Sensor B1 S1 Circuit out of range
P2A00 o2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1.
I had that P2A00 2 times in the scanner list.

4. Changed the A/F (front) and it worked.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/dr...0_210826_1.gif

 

I wonder if a shop could disable the long term fuel sensor without flashpro?
The sensor just monitors the fuel I have a downpipe for the cat and just shut the sensor off works fine. Im sure the battery has been reset

 

After looking around for exact part numbers on here and not coming up with anything, I did find these on Denso's website:


Upstream AFR Sensor:


234-9060


Downstream O2 Sensor:


234-4357


Hopefully this can help anyone who is just looking for the correct OE part to order. I know I need a new AFR ASAP

 

Since this seems to be the most relevant of the four threads on this site related to my problem, I'll bump this almost 2 year old thread and add my story here.

A week ago or so I got the P1172 error code. I checked it, then cleared it with an OBD2 diagnostic tool. The CEL light went away for about 4 minutes, then came right back. But this time the P1172 error came back with a friend: the P2A00 error. Awesome. So I clear them, again, and go on my way. Sure as crap, 3 minutes later the CEL came back on again. I've tried reflashing the calibration I had on my FlashPro to try to get rid of it but it didn't work.

My questions are these for those who have replaced both sensors: how long did it take you to replace both parts? I have removed the header twice and am familiar with the primary O2 sensor (36531-RME-A01) in the header, and I have removed the secondary O2 sensor (36532-RME-A01) as well when I replaced the exhaust system a few years ago. I know where both ends of the primary O2 sensor goes, but I only know where the secondary O2 sensor plugs into the exhaust. Where does the electrical plug go? From what I remember the wires went up into a rubber grommet somewhere under the car.

My last resort is to do what someone else suggested and remove the negative terminal to try to clear the codes. I figure it can't hurt. It should just help confirm or debunk the theory that the sensors really are bad and it isn't something that can be cleared on its own.

 

Turns out disconnecting the negative terminal didn't clear the codes so I think the parts truly are defective and need to be replaced.

 

I'm going to keep this thread alive it seems ( it's the most relevant I found looking at multiple resources ). Today the CEl just came on. So I got out my good and cheap Autel M310 obd II reader, and check the code, I have P2A00, twice it seems. I found on toronto Honda part that the A/f sensor number is ( canada): 36531-RME-305

333.31 Cad, yeah. Toronto Honda Parts - SENSOR, AIR FUEL RATIO


The other one is 36532-RME-A01 310$ CAD http://torontohondaparts.com/Part.as...=36532-RME-A01

I might look on amazon. those seem pretty straight forward to change. Can I unplug the old one, pop in the new one, reset the CEL ( my reader do that, best 40$ ever lol) and good to go? or is there any calibration think to do before?

Oh my car is 2007 Sport MT fit, 127 000 Km in 10 years. still fresh..ish lol :-)

 

i just popped in teh new sensor and it reset itself and turned off. I have an extra one since i bought 2 its the bank one sensor.

 

Ok thanks, I can't find any good DIY, not that its complicated, but I wonder if there's a specific or max torque you need to apply so it stay there and you don't destroy it.

I reset my code memory bank twice this week and it light up right back the same day, both time ( always P2A00), so it's definitely not just a fluke. Also my Fit now use fuel like a V6! lol it's crazy really. So pretty sure it run rich :-)

 

Just tighten the new sensor firmly, they usually have a thread sealer pre applied, clean the threads in the pipe before install with a wire "bottle brush", DO NOT USE OIL!!!!! on the sensor or the threads!

FWIW,, about 8 out of 10 times, a O2 fail code, is false, its actually the downstream symptom of something else like: Bad EGR valve, Bad Purge valve on evap system,Weak injector, Weak Coil, Valves out of adjustment, tired plugs, even a load of bad fuel. Running a can of injector cleaner through at least twice a year helps avoid some of these issues. The other 2 times its because all this stuff was let go for so long the sensor is fouled too badly to self clean.

The O2 will foul easily if the engine is not running up to snuff, delayed maintenance is the biggest cause of failure on most cars. YMMV..

 

I did find cheaper part on Amazon.ca: 140$ ( not sure of the brand)

And a denso on 195$

both are still cheaper than buying it from honda which is 310 on the internet and 349 at the dealership in my town.
If someone have experience with the Denso and it's as good as OEM, I don't mind paying 195 for it, it's till better than 310.

 

Dealers have over-hyped the "OEM" sensor thing badly,,, Honda doesn't make sensors so as long as its the same or a good name brand your good.

The problem is that most of the time the O2 error codes are false caused by other issues so people blame the sensor when they swap it without testing the old one and the car does not run better... Or the sensor fouls they replace it and the new one fouls so its a "bad brand" but it fouled because of a bad injector or a vacuum leak or.... Your diagnostic codes are a hint not an absolute resolution cause of whats wrong.

Wide band O2 sensors like the Honda uses are hard enough to make that you only have a few choices of vendors,,, Bosche, Denso, Delphi(GM) and a couple others.. I've never had any of the main brands not work because they were out of spec. And I've worked on everything from a vintage Yugo to a AM DB7.. But they all claim your car will explode if the dealer doesn't sell you a sensor in their color of box.

I will say that going full cheapest and ordering for eBay/Amazon/Aliexpress you may get reject sensors off the black market.. you takes your chances on that one..

 

Good, I'm asking because it seem that some people ( on this forum and on other places) had difficulties with "cheap" jobber sensor not lasting for long. so, I don't want to run into that. the OEM one is probably made by Denso ( like a lot of Honda part) anyway., that's why I was looking at those. Thank forthe head up, but after tests, is pretty likely it's my O2 sensor.