How to jack up the fit for maintenance?
#1
How to jack up the fit for maintenance?
I'm embarassed to ask this but...how do you safely and properly lift a '09 fit for maintenance? I have a floor jack and stands but no ramps. I can buy ramps if necessary. The only jack points are behind the front wheels so how do you get it on a jack stand with a floor jack in the way? I've thought about lifting from beneath the spring perch on the lower A-arm but that would do some damage, no? Please spell it out for me as I've only owned jeeps so far. Those are idiot proof to lift and wrench on.
Also, any tips for raising up the rear end would be helpfull too. I want to raise the rear so I can change the manual trans fluid.
I don't want to die in the process of saving $60 on a manual transmission fluid change.
I know what you're thinking..."if this idiot can't lift it, how does he expect to work on it?" I have all of the torque specs for the bolts and new crush washers...I just want to be 100% safe.
Also, any tips for raising up the rear end would be helpfull too. I want to raise the rear so I can change the manual trans fluid.
I don't want to die in the process of saving $60 on a manual transmission fluid change.
I know what you're thinking..."if this idiot can't lift it, how does he expect to work on it?" I have all of the torque specs for the bolts and new crush washers...I just want to be 100% safe.
#2
Use the front jack points, then set the stands on the actual frame rails. For the rear I would jack from the rear tow hook or any other reinforced area then set the jackstands on the rear pinch welds.
RTFM
RTFM
#3
not sure about ge8 fits but on the gd3 you can use the subframe as a center jack point and put the stands behind the drive wheels (front). for the rear, i always used that triangular hitch mount; it fits into the jack's cupcake perfectly.
neither of these methods have ever failed me. good luck
neither of these methods have ever failed me. good luck
Last edited by GD3_Wagoon; 11-09-2010 at 01:55 PM. Reason: grammar > me
#4
This too, although if you're lowered good luck getting the jack back to the subframe.
I used the triangle piece on my GD as well.
#5
when i was lowered i made a ramp from 2x4's that gave me just enough clearance for the a 1ton jack. it was ghetto but safe and the ramp made oil changes a piece of cake.
#6
thanks guys. I'm not familiar with the "triangular hitch mount". I'll give that a look when I get home tonight. I've read about using the tow hook somewhere before. i'll have to take a peek at that tonight as well.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
#7
I've been rocking the same ghetto ramps for oil changes...3/4"x6" cedar facia boards assembled into a solid ramp. Man, my neighbors probably just shake their heads at me. Hey, it gives me the 5" of lift that I need.
#8
I built some ramps out of 2X10's. It ended up costing me aroun $40 in material, but these things are not going anywhere, and super easy to use. They wood boards are screwed together, and construction adhesive is between them as well. Much safer than a jack or stands. Not as flexible though, and they weigh about 40-50 pounds each.
They also rise gradually, so they work on my wifes Infiniti G35 for oil changes without scraping the front of the car. They have less a slope than the rhino ones made for performance cars.
Finally, I glued on some non-slip type rubber that goes under carpets so that when driving the car up onto the ramps they don't slide around.
They also rise gradually, so they work on my wifes Infiniti G35 for oil changes without scraping the front of the car. They have less a slope than the rhino ones made for performance cars.
Finally, I glued on some non-slip type rubber that goes under carpets so that when driving the car up onto the ramps they don't slide around.
#10
Yes. I recently bought them to start doing my own maintenance since i am off of warranty. IT comes close to scraping but it makes it up with do problem. Just make sure you get some wheel chocks for the back and your set.
#12
There is a lot of useful information on this thread.... I never knew that a floor jack had a "cup cake"... That is what I will refer to it as until I die now that I know what to call it.
#14
Bringing this up from the dead...
I found my 2-ton low-profile (just regular, not racing) jack fit under the engine far enough to reach the front jack point. Then the jackstands went under the rear attachment points for the front control arms.
For the rear, the rear jack point worked well. Jackstands went under the regular frame-rail jack points. The car was quite stable like this.
I found my 2-ton low-profile (just regular, not racing) jack fit under the engine far enough to reach the front jack point. Then the jackstands went under the rear attachment points for the front control arms.
For the rear, the rear jack point worked well. Jackstands went under the regular frame-rail jack points. The car was quite stable like this.
#16
This thread has pictures of the jack points: https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ng-points.html
For the control arms, there should be pics floating around. Too lazy to dig up another thread right now.
For the control arms, there should be pics floating around. Too lazy to dig up another thread right now.
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secondspassed
Fit DIY: Repair & Maintenance
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12-28-2009 04:50 PM