Has coil replacement fixed anyone's misfire/stutter?
#41
it's insanely easy, it's essentially 1 bolt and 1 clip you have to undo. but you'll need some dielectric grease for the inside of the coils and some anti-seize for the bolts
follow this DIY https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...l15a-vtec.html
without changing/removing the spark plugs.
follow this DIY https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...l15a-vtec.html
without changing/removing the spark plugs.
#42
i think it's needed, especially with the new plugs you have.
#43
They got a lot of my money. I am not happy at all and reporting them to BBB. I just bought new spark plugs and I am going to change them along with the coils myself. It's an insanely easy process. I can't believe they ripped me off the way they did.
#45
#46
What brand of part?
#47
I have been reading in the forums and haven't found a clear answer as to whether coil replacement has been confirmed as the "solution" to the common engine stuttering issue (i.e. misfire at idle, worse with AC on, stopped in traffic)?
I realize this issue may be different on each car and could be various sensors, water in fuel, bad fuel, fuel pumps, fuel filters, locking torque converter issues, bad ground on the coils, etc...
That said, there seem to be a lot of people who suspect the coils as the cause. Has anyone had a stutter or misfire that they fixed by installing new coil packs?
Thanks!
I realize this issue may be different on each car and could be various sensors, water in fuel, bad fuel, fuel pumps, fuel filters, locking torque converter issues, bad ground on the coils, etc...
That said, there seem to be a lot of people who suspect the coils as the cause. Has anyone had a stutter or misfire that they fixed by installing new coil packs?
Thanks!
Coil paks and plugs are the prime repair, particularly after 40,000 miles. We haven't had great luck with aftermarket but I'm sure evenually they'll get it.
#49
The store conned you with the injector cleaning - did they charge you $49.95 like some here? From now on go by WallyWorld and pick up a bottle of non-alcohol injector cleaner (STP or equal) for a buck fifty and apply once a month. It won't clean up stuttering but it will keep the Fit running well.
#50
okay I just got my coil packs today its not oem but aftermarket... installed them myself it was easy diy... I also got ngk iradium plugs... with 93 octane. but anyways after the new coil pack was in. I turn the engine on and check engine was gone.. the stuttering stopped... I was shocked that it finally stopped yayyyy. mines started at 51 or 52ks miles. so another 50k miles I'll have to change it again. you don't need to get oem crap aftermarket coil packs do the job good to. ordered online from this website but forgot but got it with in 3 days I was like wow that was quick. anyways my fit drives smooth again and no more annoying check engine light YES!!!!!! AND YEAH I CHANGED ALL FOUR COILS.. all four of my old coils are fucked up badly was gonna take a picture but was lazy hahah and when I ordered from that website I looked up promotion codes and got it 12 dollars off and free shipping costed me 240.00 something cents for all four coils. talked with some guy named marc on the chat box. I'll find the website and try to put it on here when I get the chance.
#52
One word: NO
I had a cyl misfire and replaced the coil pack. Problem returned in the same cyl after about a year. Dealer told me to replace the coil pack again. This time I got smarter (through the help of those on this forum) and declined the replacement/wallet flush. Instead, I swap coils on cyl 1 and 2 and reset the CEL. Two weeks later? misfire in cyl 2 again....obviously the coil pack isn't the problem. Something greater here...not sure, any ideas?
Had a valve adjustment at 105k miles and replaced the plugs. Replaced cyl 2 coil pack at 127k. Car has 151k on the clock now. Problem is very intermittent and usually results in the occasional idle vibration and eventually a CEL. No stalling thus far. Idle cleans up after engine warms.
Honda is surely making boku bucks on the coil pack replacement even if it doesn't work 100%
I had a cyl misfire and replaced the coil pack. Problem returned in the same cyl after about a year. Dealer told me to replace the coil pack again. This time I got smarter (through the help of those on this forum) and declined the replacement/wallet flush. Instead, I swap coils on cyl 1 and 2 and reset the CEL. Two weeks later? misfire in cyl 2 again....obviously the coil pack isn't the problem. Something greater here...not sure, any ideas?
Had a valve adjustment at 105k miles and replaced the plugs. Replaced cyl 2 coil pack at 127k. Car has 151k on the clock now. Problem is very intermittent and usually results in the occasional idle vibration and eventually a CEL. No stalling thus far. Idle cleans up after engine warms.
Honda is surely making boku bucks on the coil pack replacement even if it doesn't work 100%
#54
One word: NO
I had a cyl misfire and replaced the coil pack. Problem returned in the same cyl after about a year. Dealer told me to replace the coil pack again. This time I got smarter (through the help of those on this forum) and declined the replacement/wallet flush. Instead, I swap coils on cyl 1 and 2 and reset the CEL. Two weeks later? misfire in cyl 2 again....obviously the coil pack isn't the problem. Something greater here...not sure, any ideas?
Had a valve adjustment at 105k miles and replaced the plugs. Replaced cyl 2 coil pack at 127k. Car has 151k on the clock now. Problem is very intermittent and usually results in the occasional idle vibration and eventually a CEL. No stalling thus far. Idle cleans up after engine warms.
Honda is surely making boku bucks on the coil pack replacement even if it doesn't work 100%
I had a cyl misfire and replaced the coil pack. Problem returned in the same cyl after about a year. Dealer told me to replace the coil pack again. This time I got smarter (through the help of those on this forum) and declined the replacement/wallet flush. Instead, I swap coils on cyl 1 and 2 and reset the CEL. Two weeks later? misfire in cyl 2 again....obviously the coil pack isn't the problem. Something greater here...not sure, any ideas?
Had a valve adjustment at 105k miles and replaced the plugs. Replaced cyl 2 coil pack at 127k. Car has 151k on the clock now. Problem is very intermittent and usually results in the occasional idle vibration and eventually a CEL. No stalling thus far. Idle cleans up after engine warms.
Honda is surely making boku bucks on the coil pack replacement even if it doesn't work 100%
Also Honda has a noisy thrust bearing at number 3 so it could be retarding the timing at that coil which could cause a mis-fire. It hasn't been proven but I think it has something to do with it.
With that many miles on it could be the injector too. Fuel filter should be replaced. Honda Fit Fuel Injector - Partstrain.com These are cheaper than the coils.
#56
This should help a little, the parts are different but the theory is the same. Technical Library - Diagnose, Repair, Optimization based on OBDII Information Look in the tune up.
Also Honda has a noisy thrust bearing at number 3 so it could be retarding the timing at that coil which could cause a mis-fire. It hasn't been proven but I think it has something to do with it.
With that many miles on it could be the injector too. Fuel filter should be replaced. Honda Fit Fuel Injector - Partstrain.com These are cheaper than the coils.
Also Honda has a noisy thrust bearing at number 3 so it could be retarding the timing at that coil which could cause a mis-fire. It hasn't been proven but I think it has something to do with it.
With that many miles on it could be the injector too. Fuel filter should be replaced. Honda Fit Fuel Injector - Partstrain.com These are cheaper than the coils.
My scangauge also shows that at cold idle the ignition advance/retard is negative. I assume this is normal while cold...but maybe someone can verify.
#57
I'm beginning to suspect the injectors as well. I'm going to use my scangauge to see if the misfire only happens in open loop. Once the engine warms, the roughness goes away...which I believe would happen when the o2 sensors help adjust the mixture. I'm no mechanic though...so I could be way off base here.
My scangauge also shows that at cold idle the ignition advance/retard is negative. I assume this is normal while cold...but maybe someone can verify.
My scangauge also shows that at cold idle the ignition advance/retard is negative. I assume this is normal while cold...but maybe someone can verify.
#58
I have to agree. This problem is even more common with Fords and GM's, but I don't understand why. The design is simple and should work. I question the manufacturing tolerances.
#59
Have you changed the plugs? Macbuddy had a fix for his car. https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...tutter-19.html . It might only be masking the problem but if it works it works.
New Update:: Ran my scangauge this morning. Could feel the car misfiring when cold. After about a minute check engine light blinked, idle went normal. CEL went off. Odd though, scangauge told me car remained in Open Loop for the entire drive to work ~ 45min.
Does anyone know typically when the ECM will switch to ClosedLoop?
#60
I would say that you start throwing some cleaner in the tank as the first and easiest attempt at solving the one cylinder problem. I may be wrong but detonation will cause the same misfire code. If one cylinder ( and they are tiny) starts to build up carbon, it will increase compression in that cylinder a tad. When the engine is cold the timing will retard, instead of advance... the piston will go upward toward the plug much closer before the plug fires... the compression will be greater against a carbon deposit combustion chamber, and may detonate the mixture earlier than planned when compared to the other cylinders. When it warms up a little, the spark will advance, igniting the mixture properly before it has a chance to detonate and the misfires will vanish. That's my theory anyway. It's cheap to try with some Marvel Mystery Oil.