btw, for the way to install springs in the back, it depends if they are linear or progressive... progressive springs are installed with the tightly wound coil on top... as for linear springs like Tanabe the dead coil (tightly wound coil) it should be on the bottom...

 

I learned that if I jacked up both the front wheels up the end links were much easier to install since there was no load on the other end. If you followed the DIY you must have turned your steering wheel all the way left or right. As for the rear I only used hand tools and I got my rear shocks off to install my springs without a problem. What I did first was crawl under my car while the car was on the ground to loosen the bolt first. After that I jacked up the car and removed the wheels.

 

WD-40 on the bolts and let it soak for 10 minutes, then jack up the car until the tire is in the air and try it again.

 

what if the axle fell out and i really can't get it back in???!?!?! help!

 

You may have to get help from someone else, but the first post in this thread mentions in step 7:

If for some reason the axle does pull out, do not panic. Use patience. Pushing the axle back in. If it does not go in easily, you may need to spin the hub with one hand while guiding the axle in at the boot with the other hand until it falls into place.

 

I have been trying to guide it in but seems like it goes in but not enough. is there a diagram of what the axle looks like? Couldn't find the right one in the service manual. If I can get an idea of what needs to fit into what, it should help. Thanks in advance guys!

 

That happened to me and after hours of fiddling - NO LUCK. I ended up cutting the metal clamp on the rubber boot. I totally pulled out the axle and replaced the grease.
This is the idea...


But the Fits joint actually looks like this:

The end looks like this without the rubber boot. It was so much easier putting it in when I can see it. The trick is to use a car jack to raise the rotor so you can get the axle level enough to push it in. The rounded nubs have to fit in the grooves. If you're at a slight angle, it will partially go in, but not all the way. I'm able to do it now without removing the boot to see. Good Luck.

 

i was installing my ohlins coils but having issues with taking the strut tower nut out. The nuts and the suspension turn in the same direction as I was trying the free the nut. Any suggestion?

 

putting an allen key on top and using a combination wrench should do the trick it's 5 or 6 mm if i remember... if i understand what you mean :P

 

I've tried. Doesn't work. Seems like all 4 bolt seized. Went to grab a bottle of WD40, not sure it will work - gut feeling says no, but oh well, it's worth a try as Australia doesn't have product like PB blaster etc

 

damn it's surprising that these would have seized... but it has been mentioned that using an air impact gun should do the trick... the higher torque should keep the strut from spinning with the suspension... or you could always go to a local garage and only ask them too loosen the bolts... that's what i did with the bolts on my rear shocks as i was'nt able to loosen them... it cost me 10$ and after that it was easy as pie

 

I had a terrible time with those things. If you can find some more nuts of that size, you can put them on the end of the suspension, where you'd put the allen wrench. Take the 2 extra nuts, and tighten them together tightly, but leave space between them and the one you want to loosen. Then, use the extra nuts as leverage with a wrench, and loosen the one on the bottom.

EDIT: WD40 does help.

 

I didn't have much trouble with mine. You put an allen key in the top and are holding it as you turn the nut?
The other option is to get silicon-grip pliers/vice-grips and have a second set of hands hold the shock's piston rod to stop it from turning. A regular pair of vice-grips with a thick sheet of rubber/etc. wrapped around the rod should also work in a pinch.

 

I'm done with the installation. Front was easier than the rear - which is what I find. Overall, the installation for the ohlins was pretty straight forward. Almost similar to factory original.

 

lol... even with the problems you had in front??? but good to know it finally worked out
for the rear i removed both bolts, so the entire assembly would drop down... i always left the opposite tire on tough... so it would'nt drop entirely and it the ground... or hang on the brake lines...

 

Wow, I find the front to be much more difficult than the rear. I can swap out the rear shocks and springs in no time. Glad to hear it all worked out though! Let us know how you like the Ohlins!

 

Great DIY I will installing my lowering springs 2marrow thanks to this

 

Just finished my install all went easy n my passenger axle popped out cuz I pulled to hard I was able to push it back in place under 10 min great diy

 

I did all these steps, it was running fine until 15
Miles into the drive a clacking sound is coming from the What I believe is the strut but I'm not quite sure, it comes when the car is in motion but when I accelerate it stops and the same when I brake the noise stops. Any help at all? and I did torque all the bolts to the right ft/lbs.

 

Sounds like something is loose. Did you install the springs upside-down? Did they fit properly in the struts?

Also, remember that the top of the front struts is usually rusty, so that might affect how tight you can get them.