I read a few times that other users "know" how to use this stuff. Is it tricky or can it damage something if not used correctly? I have never heard of the stuff personally

 

It's not entirely hard to do, you just put 1/3rd into the gas tank, 1/3rd into the intake (there is a specific line you feed it through, a post in here indicated where, remember to keep the revs up while doing this), 1/3rd into the crank case (make sure to change the oil within 500 miles of doing this).

 

There's also nothing to detect the spark actually made it to the gap. At some point depending upon the sophistication of the electronics in the coil unit over the plug, the ECU wouldn't know except by other downstream (O2 sensor) sensors. The ECU might know if there's an open on the input side to the coil by monitoring impedance or current draw on it's signal to the coil. Anyone know the details of the coil design?

I'm betting one or more of the coils is/are starting to show their age.

 

So this is interesting. On an old Pontiac Fiero, the original design for the throttle position sensor used three copper fingers resting on copper pads (no solder, just resting). The copper would oxidize over time and the connections would be lost, sometimes intermittently. The intermittent failures also created 'misses'. The sensor was eventually redesigned to use a soldered connection. If the intake air temp sensor was the problem, it may be the connection to the sensor oxidizing. Did you try cleaning the connector or replacing the sensor? You could also check the connector or replace the TPS as well.

 

Or u can use the whole can for one full gas tank.

I have been using seafoam for years. This was the first things i tried when i started getting the stutter. I ran it through the gas tank, the throttle body (via the vacuum line) and the crank case (via the oil cap and changed mile after about 25 miles of driving) and no luck.

I have the exact same problems, no joke. Some days, it runs like a champ and somedays, it runs like it's gargling fuel. I just don't get it.

Update::

After i ran the fuel injector cleaner and filled up a new gas tank, i'm back to the same problem. I'm getting a misfire in cylinders 1,2 and 3 and it's really jerky, like vtec isn't engaging. I get a flashing check engine light that sometimes stays on and sometimes turns off. The last thing left to switch out are the coil packs in those 3 cylinders. I really don't want to but i must. Guess i gotta wait til the next paycheck for them.

 

Here's a new item to check: the knock sensor
The intermittent engine warning light set off the idea in our engine guru. We didn't think it was the sensor without engine light and concentrated on the coil or carbon deposits (which won't yield consistent problems either). Unfortunately, the knock sensor is under the intake manifold.
We've never repaired a knock sensor on anything in over 10 years they've been around but that doesn't mean its perfect.
The check systm wouldn't know if its defective, only that its signalling with appropriate ignition retard, or miss or bump. Incidently, the warning lite does not have to come on if the sensor is intermittent.

 

I am putting together a letter to Honda Corporate here in the US. I did a quick count and from the posts here and on the other thread there appears to be about 8 or 9 people who have noticed this. As I go further down the road I may need more details, but I'm going to reference this thread and see where it goes. We've had pretty good success over on MTBR when we have a problem with a certain manufacturer's products.

John

 

Wow. I just had the problem for the first time today. It hiccuped on a red light. It tripped me out, and my car only has 15k miles btw.

 

My 07 AT with 47k miles also started to have this problem as well.

 

has anyone tried the new coil theroy yet?

 

Had engine misfire problem at 50 K, Honda adjusted valve lash, under warranty. Good until 100K, change plugs, paid $240 for valve adjustment, (Normal maintence,Per Honda), now have less misfiring, but still there. Water remover, injector cleaner added. No help. I bought the extended warranty to 120K. Going to take back to Honda ASAP. Will advise when finished. Anyone else find the problem yet.

 

I am still having this problem. It is very intermittent and variable. I do a 200 mile round trip drive for work once a week. I might do the whole drive without any issues, then on the return its hicupping like crazy, sometimes its the drive up where it hiccups. I gotta get my car in again, but its so hard to be without it (we have three drivers and two cars in the house).

John

 

Well i just wanted to update everybody on the hiccups that i've had:

After running 2 injector cleaners, i knew the problem was in my coil packs. I literally took off my intake runners and cleaned them... same problem. So the last step was to order a set of coil packs. I wanted to put a little more extra miles before i really do have to order them so i kept on driving them for another 3 weeks. bad idea.

One day, i got a check engine and it was flashing... then it went away. then it came back... then it went away... oh and this was in a 20 mile one way drive. The next morning, i'm heading to school... everything seemed fine. From school i went to work.... couple hiccups no check engines. On my drive back home from work...... check engine within 3 minutes of driving and this time.. the car SHUT OFF on me on the freeway! Luckily it was 12am and i pulled over. Turns out, 3 of my coil packs took a big s**t on me at the same time. Had to get the car towed home because it would not turn back on. The next morning i pulled out the coil packs and let them sit on top of the engine bay plugged into the harness. I made my brother crank the car. Sure enough, i was only getting a spark in cylinder 4 (closest to the battery).

Right then i ordered 3 new coil packs from bernardiparts.com @ $61 each. Just to let anybody know, that part comes from another warehouse of bernardi's so shipping is gonna take an additional 4 days so be prepared to wait a while longer for them to ship! ::sigh::

Once they came in, i switched em. Reset the ECU (disconnected the battery for 15 minutes) and turn the car on. Ran PERFECT. I almost forgot how the car ran cuz i was running it "hiccuping" for such a long time.

So in the long run... if ur getting hiccups, i recommend taking it to pep boys for a free diagnostic on which cylinders it is. Then go and purchase however many coil packs you need. I'm now running the car just like i was and i'm back up to 370mpg per full tank.

 

^Nice to hear that you fixed your car. How long had you had the new coil packs? Looks like we were spot on from our PM's.

 

KoolKevin, good to know about the coil packs... pls keep us posted if everything is still running OK after your swap.

Wondering, though..,
Most of us (including me) that do have the stutter, it seems like it is very intermittent and most importantly no check engine light, I am wondering if a simple test can point out the bad coil pack (like resistance test or something). Do you still have the bad coil packs, can you measure resistance on them?.. I am about to take mine off and try to see if there is any difference between them, as i do not have a check engine light and have no idea which cylinder is misfiring.
Also wondering what caused the packs to fail?..

Thanks and keep us posted.

 

Good work. Anyone less than 50k miles needs to get to dealerbefore 50k to document that stuuter so you can claim R&R under warranty.

 

Yes we were dead on with the coil packs. I've had em on for about 2500 miles and i havn't had a problem. Not ONCE i got a stutter. Ran it under hard load, A/C on, idle at stop light for minutes, not one stutter.

Well see.... mine started as intermittent. It would only happen on occurances maybe 2-3 times per trip, maybe more. Then it slowly started to increase to maybe 10 times per trip and at stop signs. I also noticed it did it A LOT while using the A/C. Then it got to the point where it would do it all the time while throwing codes. Now it was at the point where it failed. Oh and mine was failing in one of them, but i guess it spread to two more and 3 of them went bad. I don't know how they failed, all i know is that 3 of them failed at the same time.

How do i check the resistance? Use a voltometer i'm assuming? If anybody knows how to do it, let me know i'll do it. From what i was told tho, you must have special equipment to test it out. Right now I still have all 3 coil packs sitting in my garage. Gonna b using them as targets for a firing range soon.


Oh and more bad news... now i'm at 64k miles and my SECOND battery is not holding a charge!! I hate this, i changed my first battery @ 28k miles under warranty. Now i gotta go buy a damn battery. I think ima just get an Odessy battery and call it a day.

SERIOUSLY get it checked out. I was stupid to leave it so long and pass the 50k warranty but i didn't know i had options back then.

Print out this site and take it into a dealership when ur having a stutter-thon (LMAO) and tell em to change out the coil packs. Let em know i bought new ones and it fixed the problem.

 

This is great news. I'll print this out and see if I can get the dealer to warranty the coil packs. I've had this documented since before the warranty ran out.

John

 

Honda replaced 1 bad coil pack. I'm glad I bought the extreme extended warranty. I had a reantal car for 4 days while the part was backordered.
Good luck all.

 

NICE. glad u got it replaced. I have extended warranty also, but i have a $200 deductable.