I wonder if this OP has read many posts that solved the erratic firing with new coil paks and plugs. Just as it was with points and plugs, it is with coil paks and plugs. Of course it means much higher costs but its still there. You can count on it at about 50k miles.

 

What's cheaper is to simply re-gap the existing plugs. IIRC, our Fit's have Iridium plugs which last something like 100K miles if you gap them.

I regapped the plugs (they were out of spec) and cleaned the electrical contacts between the plugs and the coil packs. If you already have the tools and some contact cleaner, it will cost you nothing.

My car ran smoother afterwards and I haven't yet had a problem at 56K miles. YMMV

 

Applied dielectric grease to the inside of the ignition coil boot that goes over the spark plug. SURPRISE SURPRISE now I get only P304 but the car continues to have the flashing CEL and hesitation.


Hey guys, is “Cylinder one” closest to the belts & alternator?


I wonder whether the 'fade' in the red boot means that the rubber / plastic has lost its inherent dielectric properties?


I am waiting delivery of ignition coil boot I bought here:
Beck Arnley OE Replacement Ignition Coil Boot - JCWhitney


Next step will be to reduce the spark plug gap from the factory spec .040"-.051" to .032" as members recommended here. Hopefully I do not end up killing the catalytic converter.


Changing air filter made no difference even though it looked clogged.

 

Installed 4 new OEM coil packs about a week ago (71,400 miles).

<>Issues = a quick/brief stutter (felt like the car was running out of gas) while pulling away from traffic signals (the issue varied from ~2,100 to 2,600 rpm).
<>Average gas mileage has been trending downward over the past several months.
<>Intermittent idle burble (barely noticeable).

After the new coil packs (different version with black ends) were installed (that was the only thing I did)... the car feels great. More power/no more studder (still checking mileage to see if that improves).
The price sucked but I am happy that I did it. Ordered them from here > Find Honda Parts at AutoFair Honda's Parts Departement | Manchester, NH

The issue was really noticeable after it started getting warm last summer. I had hoped that I could make it thru the winter and get them at the end of spring this year.

 

Yes, cyl 1 is closest to pulley, timing chain (timing belt on other cars). I believe that is some sort of standard.

I'm not sure about discoloration means losing dialectic properties. Some people have reported success with misfire problems by applying a thin layer of dielectric grease to the inside boot of the pack where it makes contact with the ceramic portion of the plug. That would restore some dielectric properties if it were a problem (ie being able to standoff necessary high voltage but bleeding off charge when not in use so as not to create a capacitor).

I bought Beck Arnly coil packs to replace a bad one. It worked for 100 miles and then developed an arc hole in the upper plastic body portion of the pack. I'm not sure if it was due to the coil pack or an overheated location that caused the pack to fail somehow. I have noticed, the design of the internal spring contact is different than the Honda design.

 

Back story:
about a year and a half ago i got a flashing then steady CEL. A trip to the dealership and #4 coil found bad and replaced. about $200
9 months later the same thing happens again. Supposedly #4 misfire. they swap #1 & #4 and misfire disappears. swap back and still no problem. They state that the problem is probably the non honda oem plugs i installed causing an intermittent problem. i take my car back, get around the corner and CEL comes back, pull right back into the dealership. #4 misfire again, bad coil after 9 months. They offer to fix it for the cost of the coil only because the coil is out of warranty (12months/12000mi) we had driven about 15000mi. argued with them for a while and they finally agreed to cover everything.

That was in September.

A little over a week ago same problem again.
Misfire #2 & #4 they swap coils and problem stays #2 & #4. They say that the problem is my non honda oem plugs, they also recommend a valve adjustment $380. $160 to replace with honda plugs, the only reason i paid to have them do it is if the problem returns they cant blame it on me. I get the car back and shortly after notice a slight occasional stutter at stoplights. i chalk it up to needing the valves adjusted, 139000mi on the car. we had a weekend trip to vegas and over the weekend the stutter at stops got increasingly worse. notified the dealership on monday and that i planned to bring my car in on tuesday. on the way home from work on tuesday the CEL returned. i explain the symptoms to the service rep and she says its probably needing the recommended valve adjustment. i bring up the fact that if the valves were out of adjustment, why did the stutter start to happen after the plugs were replaced and not before? she doesnt have an answer.
tech checks out the car, codes 300 301 and 303 now. after reset they claim that the car is running fine but still recommend the valve adjustment. I ask for a test drive with the tech, they sent a porter with me. at first no stutter but after a few miles it came back in full force. Now one of their other techs is getting involved and curious. he agrees that the stutter starting after the plug change and no prior problem makes the valve adjustment seem like it is not the culprit.
they had the car until saturday(yesterday), no solution to the stutter even after i suggested coils since one only lasted 9 months last time.

i found this thread last night and now i believe more than ever that the coils are the culprit. i do plan to get the valve adjustment done, just not from the stealership. Im going to try the previously mentioned disassemble and cleaning of coils, and re application of dielectric grease first. Then replace coils if need be. i'll post my results when im done

 

Your were ripped off ! I had the same issues and all I did to fix them all was : replacing the set of coil pack at $120 bucks ( I did the replacement my self very easy job, ) and My fit is running like new for half year already.

 

Try changing the coilpacks yourself so you're sure they're being replaced. Or mark them so you'll be able to recognize your old ones. It's not a hard job to do yourself and you'd save a lot of money on labor. IIRC the only tool you'd need is a small socket wrench, and it doesn't take more than 10 minutes.

I don't think it's a valve adjustment issue because those typically don't throw engine misfire codes.

 

Just out of curiosity what is the spark plugs you installed? Not all spark plugs are alike and some are down right of such cheap construction I wouldn't use them in my flyswatter.
If you chose plugs with the wrong tip, gap, heat range, or type you will easily upset the ignition firing. And the coils ability to provide spark acrioss the plug gap resulting in misfire. And likely intermittent depending on thed load.

 

Yes they do.


Ask any owner of a Generation 1 CR-V (B20 engine) that hasn't adjusted valves. The valves need to be severely closed-up (tight and silent) before they throw the code, however.

 

That's cool info, for the 1st generation CRV.

But has anybody had a misfire code on a Fit that was due to valve clearances? I've only heard of it once or twice out of the 20-30 times a valve adjustment was the cause of misfires and/or stalling, including my own experience.

 

i believe that they were Bosch iridium, pre gapped. Supposed to be oem equivalent.

 

I posted my experiences with this issue in the GD1 forum here:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...ml#post1169688

In short, I never got the check engine light but swapped all 4 coils AND plugs at the same time. Fingers crossed.

 

so this afternoon i pulled and inspected the coil packs and found some interesting things.

original installed coil packs seem to all have the pink boots at the spark plug end and the new oem replacements are all black. i have 2 packs with pink boots and 2 with black, i have only had one pack replaced. the pink packs were on cyl #1 and 3 black on #2 and 4. so i dont know if the dealership replaced or damaged one at some point and didnt say anything because i have only paid to have one replaced.

i seperated the boots from the packs and this is what i found on the pack for cyl 1 i forgot to get a pic of the outer boot



Cyl 2 looks brand new





Cyl 3 Had some corrosion but not nearly as bad as #1





Cyl 4 also looks fairly new





i cleaned all of the connections and applied dielectric grease to the connections, put everything back together and took the car for a test drive.

the stutter is almost gone. still there from time to time while at stop lights but not constant like before. i think that i am going to replace the 2 old coil packs and then a friend of mine is going to help me adjust the valves. hopefully that will solve all of my problems.

 

Just like I said here in post #126

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...stutter-7.html

 

I need Help! I am worried that my dealer will give up on my car

Is everyone experienceing this shuttering problem on the Honda Fit Sport model between 2006-2008 after it reaches 50k or higher? Is bad fuel a possible reason? From the posts here, the coil pack is the most likely culprit because of the poor coil pack design on the model, but it could also be caused by the plug, and/or an unadjusted valves. And other factors, in less often cases, would mainly be about the EGR problem, e.g Clogged fuel injector, Water in the tank? Carbon buildup in the combustion chamber, CAT converter, Intake air temp sensor? Am I right?

I bought a 2008 Honda Fit Sport this year as my first car as it was ranked as the best used compact car in Canada! But I almost started to experience the shuttering right away when I got it, but I didn't know it's abnormal since it's my first car. When my neighbour told me there is something wrong with this car, I brought it to the dealer the first month , but just like many stories here, the dealer told me there is nothing wrong with the car since they couldn't replicate the problem during their short trials. So I took it back and thought the shutter is just normal until the engine light was on after my first long distance trip. I started the trip only three days passed the warranty, but when I was back, there was probably another 2 weeks past. Luckily enough, the dealer (Ford dealer in Prince George) agreed to cover it as I had claimed it before. So, the Honda dealer (it is the same boss with Ford) did the valve adjustment and changed the coils. Now the car is fine when it's idle, but still shutter when on driving, and the gas mileage is bad. I was going to send the car back to the dealer, but they suggested me try the gas from Shevron first. I am going to try it, probably with some addictives. But will that really be helpful, or just a temperoty fix? Should I insist them work on the EGR problems? I only drive my car maybe twice a week for half an hour, I park outside and it's really cold here, -10.

Any suggestions?

 

Trust me, most likely it's the coil pack caused issue. I had experienced the exactly same thing, after replaced the coil pack (all 4), it has been running good for 1.5 years so far.


Go ebay to buy OEM from USA, about $120 for all 4, you can replace yourself. let me know if any help requried?


good luck

 

They changed the coils already. and now I don't feel it again on idle, but still shutter on driving, and that's why I'm worried if it's possible something wrong with the transmission since I bought it second hand

 

Did they change all the coil packs?

Also, since it's stuttering, is the check engine light on? If so, what are the codes?

I don't think it would be the transmission.

 

Now the engine light is not on, but that's something I'm worried. I had this shuttering long time, but the engine light wasn't on for almost half a year until I drove it heavily for a couple of days.
Now the light is not on, so it's hard to show the dealer the problem is still there, as it only occurs when I drive it slowly