P.S. Anybody hear about this in Kaleeforneeah?

HowStuffWorks "How long do car ignitions last?"

 

Did you end up replacing the entire coilpack or just the shafts?

I also replaced all four coilpacks a couple days ago and the car runs perfect again. The car threw codes in each of the four cylinders.

 

Comparison pics

Old packs




Side by side

 

We have limited data, only few dozen cases, but based on statistical results you can expect coils to last about 50,000 miles with a 3 sigma of about 12,000 miles. That means you have a 90% probability of having at least one coil go bad between 38,000 and 62,000 miles. Spark plugs seem to last much longer though its usually good policy to replace at 50,000 miles or when coil goes bad. We also suspect that once one coil goes you can expect others to go within a year.
On the other hand we have cars with over 200,000 miles and 25 years old to have their points go on forever with only periodic adjustment. Compared to the price of new points, ca $25, the cost of $80 PER CYLINDER for new coils is the most nonsensical 'improvement' in vehicle maintenance. We have a few electronic distributors on cars that have not failed in 200k either. Cost pretty high by comparison.
Its hard to believe they had anything more than compatibility with electronics or lower cost at customer expense (and parts/shop enrichment) rather than meeting emissions to justify their use.

 

I sent the boots back and got the four coil packs. Other than shipping no problem with rockauto.

My coilpacks looked exactly like the old ones (red tip), though it seemed to me like there was NO dielectric grease in the original factory installation.

My car started really having problems at around 85,000, though I think it was probably failing before that ("running rough" but not stuttering). It was near undrivable at 100,000 miles. It sounds like I may actually have been "lucky".

I do a lot of highway driving, perhaps that causes less wear.

It sounds like they'll have to improve dependability, at least in California, if they pass that regulation I posted.

A good article on COP:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/copign.htm

 

Count me in. I have an 07 Base model purchased in June of 2006. I have 80K miles. The stutter started for me about a year or year and a half ago. I have taken it to the dealer twice in that time and they were not able to duplicate or see the symptoms. My symptoms are about the same as most others here. Shudders under load at idle sometimes(I'm in Houston, AC is almost always on). Also shudders on mild acceleration around 2500 rpm somewhere in the 30 to 60 mph range. My shudders were intermittent. Some days terrible, other days no shudders at all. My tach does not drop or move as far as I can tell. The shudders starts and stops in an instant. My car has never stalled. Sometimes they happen back to back with maybe a 1/2 second between for up to 5 seconds. You can definitely feel the car shake when it occurs. Since I had no visual clue with the tach I thought it was the car surging rather than shuddering. It almost feels like it will lurch forward when the shudder happens at idle. I have also found turning off the AC for a bit gives me temprorary relief from symptoms (I can only do this for a few seconds before the wife complains though).

Before I found this forum this week, I was at a loss for what to do about it. Thanks for posting everybody.

 

Same Thing happens with my base model too regularly when I drive on Highway. Got under many mechs but no luck!

 

Honda (and VW/Audi) have had bouts with bad batches of coils. My brother's Civic had them all go bad (2005 model, I think). My 1992 BMW was sold at 151,000 miles with the original Bosch coils and the 1999 Camry has 220,000 miles on the original Denso coils.

 

crazy, here i am thinking my car was the only one. It does the same thing you guys are describing, especially when at a stop sign, it's like the car wants to jump forward even though you have your foot on the brake. Then those slight hesitations when on the fwy really annoy the hell out of me. But reading in here i'm going to assume it is my spark plugs. My 2007 is at 99,555 so i know i should change those spark plugs.....lol Already did a valve adjustment and that helped out a first, but then went back to the power jumping.

 

I'm sure someone has covered it or figure it out but the Fit's have a reputation with their fuel injectors.. Buy a cheap 2.99 bottle of injector cleaner, put it in before fill up and you'll notice it go away. Also try using shell gas afterwards. Shell gas is cleaner and I don't have to run the cleaner as often when using their gas.

 

It's not the injectors. At least not in my case. I cleaned them and it didn't help. I always use good name brand gas anyway - Chevron or Shell.

 

More oftemn than not its plugs or the coil packs. They don't seem to last much past 50k miles. And too damn costly.
And putting a good injector clear like STP NON_ALCOHOL bottle in thge gas oince a month seems to be a good practice. Its available at wallyworld for not much over a buck.

 

Count me in. I guess since I drive it every day, I don't notice the gradual increasing roughness, but my wife did almost immediately a couple of weeks ago. She hadn't been in my car for some time, and the first words out of her mouth were, "This thing is running like crap!"

I also haven't been tracking my fuel economy due to my iPhone being stolen earlier this year and hadn't noticed the gradual decrease there. Besides, it always does worse with the AC cranked (100+ degree heat for a week now, 90+ for the past month or two).

Last week I got 240 miles to a tank. This week I got 255.

Yesterday I almost stalled on the interstate.

So will extended warranty cover this?

 

I use the fuel system cleaner about once a month and I changed my spark plugs at about 60k and no more stutter. Spark plugs obviously cause mis-fires and could sometimes be bad enough to stall the car. Unfortunately It might not work for you...can't guarantee that. But it would hurt to spend 50 bucks for cleaner and sparks and an hour out of your day to have a smooth running fit.. Not an expert, just saying what worked for me and hopefully works for you.

 

I bought 4 new coil packs from NAPA and the problem is worse than before but I gues that is what I get for 120.00 for all 4 packs. Now I will order from Barnardi. I am so done with this problem I was going up a tall bridge and I had to drop gears and floor it just to keep 50 mph. I almost pull over and took my gun out and put the car out of its misery.

 

Count me in as well. I have not taken it to a dealer or mechanic, and just self-diagnosed with the help of this thread. Also, to mention, it is a 2007 Sport with Auto-Trans and no CELs.
Noticed this problem start about March. I adjusted the valves at 87,394 miles. This seemed to help for a little bit.
Then when AC season kicked in the problem reared its head worse than ever. So the next thing I did was replace the Spark Plugs with the Denso stock equivalent at 90,008 miles. Once again, this seemed to help for a little bit.
I've run Fuel injection cleaner through the system more than once. So I think the next step is new coils.
RockAuto has a few different manufacturers for the ignition coil.
1) BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1788374 - $51.79
2) STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # UF581 {#30520PWC003} - $70.79
3) AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 5C1635 {#30520PWC003, C1578} - $67.79

Has anybody used the Beck/Arnley part? Should I stay away?

Thanks for the help.

 

We've replaced coils and plugs about a dozen times so far and have had to redo a couple of times til we ordered Honda parts from Majestic Honda in RI. Price about your listed ones. So we can't endorse any coils but Hondas and of course the NGK plugs.
good luck and tell us your experience if you go with aftermarket.

 

When I went to go purchase the Beck/Arnley ignition coils from RockAuto, they were out. So I ordered from Bernadi Parts for about $65. I went ahead and just replaced all 4.

After replacing the coils last night, today I drove to the store and back letting the car idle for quite some time with the A/C on. These conditions would usually cause a stutter, but today with 4 brand new coils, nothing.

Hopefully this means the problem has been fixed and that some other basic maintenance was performed along the way. If the problem turns up again, I'll report back to this thread.

 

I was able to get one of the Beck Arnley coils and 3 of the Standard at rock auto. qty and availability was wrong on all the brands on the website. they called me and worked it out. Replaced plugs with autolite iridiums. Stutter is gone. It has been about 1500 miles with no issues.

 

My wife and I have owned 2 Honda Fits. A 2007 Automatic Sport and a 2008 Automatic Sport. Both cars had this problem. The 2007 model started having the problem at a little over 30,000 miles. The 2008 model started having the problem around 40,000 miles.

Like others in this forum, the issue seems to be triggered when the electric fan for the radiator turns on. I traded the 2007 in when it had about 35,000 miles on it. I thought it might have been a lemon because of the stuttering issue. However, once the 2008 model started doing it, I went online only to find hundreds of people with similar problems. My 2008 now has about 86,000 miles on it. Most of them highway miles. It has stalled a couple of times and almost stalled countless times. The dealership said they couldn't recreate the problem. (Oh.. I guess it's just in my head then. ARGH!!!!)

I have yet to replace the coils. I need to find a mechanic I can trust in Southern Cal as I'm fairly new to the area.

Thanks to everyone who has chimed in on this issue. I WISH HONDA WOULD STEP UP AND DO THE RIGHT THING AND ISSUE A RECALL.... BEFORE SOMEBODY DIES BECAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM!!!