OK, 03DSM-RSX-

We have about worn out our audience and it is time to cool it on this subject. I will challenge anyone who expresses his own opinion as fact, and my intent was always to urge interested parties to do their own research, not depend upon any one person's advice- even mine.

If I have offended you, I apologize and it was not intentional. We can both probably find printed and factual evidence to prove anything we want to prove regarding auto maintenance supplies. I am sure that you will agree that there are a hell of a lot of b.s. products advertised for cars on the market aimed at people who have absolutely no idea how their car/truck/suv's work, and most of these products are either worthless or downright harmful scams.

We are writing to the small percentage of Fitfreak members who are trying to get the best out of their cars without paying a dealership mechanic $100.00 an hour to do easy things with overpriced off-the-shelf OEM supplies, that WE can do ourselves with BETTER products in an afternoon.

Being 21 does not make you stupid or necessarily wrong and I don't believe that I have implied those things. It is a fact that you absolutely cannot have the knowledge and experience of a 58 year old trained mechanic with a 25 year career as an industrial engineer, but we both have the opportunity to be right, wrong, or a little of both in a technical discussion.

Of course you can't fit anybody's bypass filter system in a Fit- I brought it up only to illustrate how far an automotive buff can go to get the longest life out of engine oil. The people who read the tech. threads here might be interested in this idea for their other, larger vehicles, and they will only get this info. on one web site that I am aware of.

As I have posted to another member, I don't intend to leave synthetic oil in my Ft for 25000 miles either. Without the water retention ability of the add-on bypass system, condensation will contaminate my oil before it has reached the end of its serviceable life. However, if I still drove 25000 miles per year as I used to, I would have the oil analyzed at six months, and change it once a year unless analysis showed problems. You and I know what we are talking about here, but MANY OTHER fitfreaks do not.

It is THOSE members for whom I have challenged your information, not by saying that you are wrong, or lying, but by saying "Get more information! Here's another place to get some".

Finally, if our audience(s) ONLY follow your advice, they will still probably be better off than just letting their local dealer do everything for them at too high a price and too much waste of time. But yours are not the only ways to get good results. Claymore calls you "Mr. Know It All", but not as a statement of fact. By the time you get to where I am, you will know that this is never a statement of fact for anyone. Albert Einstein was as ignorant as anyone else, just about fewer subjects.

You DO have a better practical attitude and more knowledge about auto maintenance than any guy your age that I know. And I PROMISE never to bring age up again.

Please CONTINUE to post information and advice in these forums. But I can't promise not to challenge you again if I think there is a reason.

Peace!

Dave

 

Very well said Its clear that we both took each other the wrong way. I, too, apologize for any personal attacks.

Yes, "Mr. KIA" was a sarcastic statement said to me by claymore. i put his sarcasm to use. lol, but i actually dont "know-it-all".

Oh please do. i'm here to learn as well. i am not afraid to admit any fault if i'm proven wrong (which has happened plenty times in the past). And you also, please continue to post your knowledge. I'll be reading and learning

 

Hello,

Just wondering here, according to the oil life indicator most of us are getting about 4500 to 5000 miles from the motor oil before a change. At 4500 miles from a fresh oil change I am about 20-30 % oil life.
With such long period i was wondering if anybody has kept track of the oil level?
I do my own oil changes (Fully synthetic Mobil 1, 5w-20) and with fresh oil change I fill her up right to the top mark of the oil dip stick,,,, after 4500 miles the oil level is about 5 mm down from the top mark, very small amount, but still some oil has been consumed.
When I do my oil changes at the more regular 3000 mile mark , I do not notice any oil consumption. Wondering if going beyond 3000 miles on oil is maybe pushing it even though the oil life indicator says its safe ?

Any opinions?

Thanks

 

Do you top off after you run the vehicle with a fresh oil change? If not, you have to take into account for the oil that is stored in the filter.

 

how does the maintenance minder determine when it's time to change the oil ??

in the manual it says it looks at engine conditions and accumulated engine revolutions but i heard somewhere that there was a device which actually checked how (clean) the oil was. if this is true then no problem case closed but if this is not true and the computer only looks at variables like coolant and oil temperature + accumulated revs, then upgrading to a higher quality longer lasting synthetic oil will mean the maintenance minder comes on early as they're formulated for mineral oils which break down faster

either way, for my first oilchange i waited until the maintenance minder was at 20% (didnt want to push it as i do alot of long distance travelling) and 10,300 kms which is a little more then 6200 miles. most synthetics claim that they can run up to 7500 miles or 6 months which is pretty much what i got with the factory oil in the pan ... does it make sense to upgrade to synthetic in this case if i can go this far with regular dino oil ... or will upgrading to synthetic extend this even more ...

 

I had my first oil change done at the dealer and they have reseted the oil indicator for me. I decided not to wait for the indicator to run very low percentage and did it at 5,000 miles when the indicator was still saying 60%.

 

Does anyone know the part number for the Mobil 1 oil filter for the US Fit? Thanks in advance!

 

Current Vehicle: Year: 2007 Make: Honda Model: Fit Engine Type: 4cyl. 1.5Liter VTEC

Filter matches for the vehicle you selected:
Mobil 1 Mobil 1 Model M1-110 Other options Fram Model PH7317 This website contains the most current information available at the time of website launching, and is updated periodically. Always consult your vehicle manufacturer's manual for information specific to your automobile.

when in doubt, click the bar in the bottom of my sig

 

BTW I looked on the site for mobil-1 and found the following information for anyone who is interested:

Question: Changing to Synthetic Oil in a New Car I have a new car. I have read not to change to a synthetic oil until there are some miles on the engine to give the rings a chance to seat. How long should I wait or how many miles should it be before I change to synthetic oil? Thank you for your time. -- Edsel Heath, Jr., Richmond Hill, GAAnswer: Modern vehicles can use Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil right from the factory. As evidence of this fact, more than 35 new car makes and models use Mobil 1 as factory fill. So there is no reason to wait to start enjoying the benefits of Mobil 1

 

modern cars take very little time for the piston rings to seat, most of the wearing in takes place in the factory test run procedure, switching to synthetic at the first oil change would probably be ok but i decided to wait one more change just to be sure, i think the fit demands synthetic teh way i drive it, the maintenance minder didnt read 20% till after 6000 miles of driving (albeit most of this was freeway) i just dont trust dino oils at this long an interval

 

I want to know which grade of oil I should use in my car. There are so many kinds 10-30w, 5-30w. What is the diffrence.

 

Stick to 5-20. That's really all you need to know.. Your best choices are Motorcraft 5-20 synthetic blend, or penzoil platinum 5-20 full synthetic, or mobil 1 5-20, or castrol synthetic 5-20. Just do that otherwise you can risk voiding your warranty. If you're in california and don't see drastic weather, 5-20 is fine year-round. If you live in texas where its extra hot, 5-30 will help protect better during the summer. If you live in extreme cold, try 0-20.

Basically the first number is the viscosity at cold (usually during engine start), while second number indicates viscosity during normal operation.

 

I don't think we have 5-20 baclk here ,maybe 5-30 and it's very hot in the summer here. I still want to know the diffrence between the numbers 5-20,30..etc.

 

The numbers in the viscosity specs. of an engine oil indicate just that- the viscosity or "resistance to flow". In multi-viscosity oils, the lower number indicates its viscosity in the lowest anticipated operating temperatures, or S.A.E. 5 Weight= low viscosity, thin, flows easily in cold temperatures. The higher number indicates the viscosity in high operating temperatures. 20-30-40 Wt. are higher flow resistance, thicker, and compensate for increased pressure and stress on engine components due to thermal expansion. The viscosity of multi-vis engine oils actually changes as engine operating temperatures change.

5 Wt., 20 Wt., 50 Wt., etc. S.A.E. viscosity units of measure are old-fashioned and are only used in marketing of engine oils, not used as measurements in the petroleum industry. The lubrication industry now uses different measurements like ISO or SUS numbers. S.A.E. 5 Wt. engine oil is now ISO 22, and SUS 100.

 

Heard Fram are not good.. so in ur opinions, which brand is the best?
If you can provide model number of the filter as well than it would be great!

 

From reading around on this group and some other sites, I guess the Hamp filter is the way to go. I bought a 10 pack here:

Hamp Oil Filter | JDM Honda Parts, JDM Honda Engines / JDM Nissan Motor Swaps, Used JDM Parts - Password JDM

 

yeah its been coverd a few times....be warned some people might be flaming you about it just a heads up.

but yeah id go HAMP from either JHPusa.com or passwordjdm.com

they work well and made by toyo roki....not filtech (us honda) which also makes fram.

Bosch, K&N, Mobil 1 are all good too.

 

The only filter to use



Although, I won't be using it as I'm such a cheap ass!!

 

Hey i just watched Horsepower TV on Speedvision and they dyno tested a car with STOCK oil and then Royal Purple Full Synthetic in the engine, tranny and diff. They dyno showed an increase of 8HP at the wheels!!! Any idea if Mobil 1 has done this? Any idea if Mobil 1 will have better increases?? Has anyone tried both?? I'm getting close to the milage where i'm going to switch from conventional to full synthetic so i'd like to get as much knowledge as possible so that every penny's worth spending.

Or should i just go to AJR and get the MOTUL 300V 5W40??

 

You would have to look at which weight oil they used. This has been done many times over the years in Car and Driver, Turbo, Sport Compact Car, etc. In each and every instance I have seen, they switch from a higher weight conventional oil to a lighter weight synthetic. (ie 5W40 switched to 5W30) This is because the synthetic has less viscosity breakdown so you can more safely run a lighter weight oil. Most of the power gain is because the engine is not pumping around as thick and oil. A thinner oil will also get between surfaces easier. So if you switch from our stock 5W20 to 5W40 I suspect you would actually lose a little horsepower due to the thicker oil.