im due for an oil change soon too anyways i use Amsoil motor oil and hamp oil filter =)

 

Amsoil is GOOD shit. (i'm an Amsoil dealer btw )

but Mobil 1 is also been proven to be a solid oil for cars of all kinds. Factory filled in corvettes and other top end cars.

JDM HAMP oil filters FTW!! or M1's filter as well. i beleive the model number is M1-110.

all in all, go synthetic oil.

 

actually i got the dealer to gimme a free oilchange so ill wait till summer b4 switching over to synthetic ^^

thanks for the tips though guys,

btw how much is amsoil products compared to say mobil 1 or castrol ??

and i had a look at the amsoil website ... which one should i choose when changing oil again in the summer ??

there's only 1 product thats 5w-20 and there's another that's 5w-30 ... each of them have such wierd names i dont know wut's wut with them

 

My 2007 Fit Sport 5M has 3700+ miles, the service indicator is saying 40% oil life remains, and my engine feels like it's nicely broken-in.

Since I'm a fan of frequent oil changes, I'm planning to do the first oil change this weekend using OEM filter and Castrol Syntec (full synthentic) 5W-30.

Regards,

Jim

 

Warning: this is long, and it is fact---

As I have previously posted, Amsoil was the first American producer of synthetic automotive lubricants. They still make the best, because since the late '60s, they have not stopped their research as petrochemical manufacturers have jumped on the bandwagon over the decades and tried to copy their ideas.

Synthetic engine oils are made by mixing a type of acid with a type of alcohol to produce an "ester". Depending upon the type of alcohol and type of acid and the percentage of each, hundreds of esters, di-esters, and polyesters can be made, with different viscosities, pour points, shear strengths, lubricity, and flash points. By adding viscosity extenders, extreme pressure additives, and other chemicals, you can create exactly the performance that you want.

Synthetic lubricants are a renewable resource that work better and last longer than anything that comes from refined crude oil.

The first synthetic oils were invented by German scientists in WWII during the failed siege of Stalingrad. All of the German war machinery stopped working- from the machine guns to the troop carriers to the artillery, when the petrochemical lubricants froze solid. With extreme encouragement from the German Chancellor (how would you like a vacation in Auschwitz???) the scientists came up with the first ester-based lubricants. The WWII Germans also invented the first jet turbine aircraft engines, later copied by
England, later copied by the U.S. Ester-based lubricants allowed the first turbine engines to work without blowing up.

Amsoil was founded in the late '60s by a U. S. Air Force jet turbine engine mechanic. He knew that turbine engines depend upon the characteristics of synthetic lubricants to withstand speeds in the thousands of r.p.m.s, and operating temperatures in excess of 2000 degrees F. He also knew that adapting these lubricants to motor vehicles would make automotive engines, differentials and transmissions work better and last longer by eliminating friction and wear, and greatly extend the usable life of the lubricants.

Use synthetic lubricants in your car or truck if you want to get the most performance, least friction and wear,best fuel economy, and longest life. Use Amsoil if you want the very best in all categories. This brand does cost more, if you buy it retail, than any of the copy-cat brands in your parts store. So don't buy it retail. Buy it wholesale instead.

 

i agree with the post about Amsoil

i also used Redline oils in the past and had good experiences with them.

 

Redline is made in Martinez, CA, and is another line of ester-based synthetics.

Redline products are aimed at the racing market, and their formulas work well but get dirtier faster than Amsoil. Redline does not have the 25000 mile drain interval guarantee that Amsoil has. Redline is available in retail stores, not direct at wholesale prices from the manufacturer. Retail prices for Redline and Amsoil are similar, so with Redline you have to change oil more frequently, making the cost higher overall.

 

hahah darn right about the Redline getting dirtier faster!!!!!!!!! hahah but i used it in my spec miata.....so oil got changed after every race anyways

 

its the quality of the filter that determines how fast your oil gets dirtier. also, your intake filter's condition. but yes, redline and royal purple seem to break down sooner vs. amsoil. M1 is solid performer in all conditions, race or street.

just b/c Amsoil has a drain interval of 25k miles/1 year, doesnt mean its good to do so.

stick with 5w-20/30. i personally use 5w-30.

 

you can go 7k on same oil/filter with M1 synthetic. just change both the same time b/c you lose some oil anyways if u're just changing filter alone.

 

The oil service light has not light up, should I change the oil as I have 5K after 8 months of driving?

 

For those who want to pretend, as he seems to, that 03DSM-RSX knows everything about lubrication for your car, by all means just do whatever he says. For those who want to educate themselves before making important decisions, visit the Amsoil web site. You will find that they are not only the industry leaders in lubrication, but also in filtration. There are Amsoil filters that retain particulate contaminants that are less than one micron in size, and the same filters also remove water. They provide lab. test proof of all claims on their products.

OF COURSE it does no good to use the best oil with the worst air and oil filters. I did not mention that in my original post on Amsoil because I did not feel it necessary to belabor the obvious.

Educate yourself. Don't believe ANYTHING that you see on an info-mercial or TV ad, and DON'T use the advice of any Fitfreak member as your sole source of information.

 

My 2007 Fit Sport is now 6 months old with only 2000 miles.

Does anyone here have any suggestions on whether I should go ahead and change it now (60% on the maintenance ninder)

I've read in a few posts that honda really wants you to wait for that first oil change, but my low mileage is somewhat unusual and think 6 months is enough.

Any ideas or opinions are appreciated.

(damn dealers all have their own spin on when to do oil changes.....)

 

I am just about in the same condition (5 months w/2000 mi.), and I will change my oil in a few weeks anyway. Our low mileage generally means short trips with the engine not reaching normal operating temperatures. Water also becomes a contaminant in the engine oil from condensation as the engine gets cold again during winter weather. The factory oil is mineral oil-based, which means that it contains sulfur. The condensed water mixes with the sulfur to become sulfuric acid that eventually attacks bearings.

I will be changing to synthetic oil which contains no sulfur, and will use a spin-on oil filter that retains the smallest size of particles of any on the market. If my low mileage habits continue, I will probably leave the synthetic oil in the engine for a year, but will change the filter at six months and add the required amount of oil to top-up.

 

Honda usually wants you to wait b/c the oil that comes in the motor from the factory has some kind of "new car" additives that needs to be cycled thru the engine. some articles say to keep it up to 8k miles. but i kept mine up to 6k. then switched to M1 synthetic oil + JDM HAMP filter.

do not mind the oil life indicator. its not an accurate reading of actual oil life as your motor does not have a self-oil ana lysis test inside of it. its just a marketing tactic to get you to go to the dealer really.

 

Hello, i am an Amsoil dealer. Even though i am supposed to promote amsoil products, it doesnt mean i have to go by their book and exclude quality of other good products, b/c they (amsoil) is still a business that needs to market.

Oil test results vary from a car-to-car basis, Car A will not have the same oil test results as Car B. They are advertising the same way as how aftermarket performance products advertise by providing dyno sheets. Driving conditions and habits are all different. To check if extended drain is good for you, get your OWN oil test done. $20 to find out. Instead of linking people to commercial sites where info may be biased, go to bobistheoilguy.com.

Just b/c a company develops the first of something doesnt mean competitors cant do better. Was Honda the first company to invent the car? No.

Are you saying that M1, HAMP, OEM, Purolator, Bosch, etc (except Fram) are bad oil filters?

 

check the DIY section, there are several oil-related threads.

 

I did my first oil change at 3000km, 2nd one at 7500km. I did them all myself and didn't go back to Honda for the free work.

 

Like 03------at the age of 21, I thought that I knew more than I actually did. I've had almost two more lifetimes to fill in the gaps with education and experience. Unlike 03------, my ego is not dependent upon my posts. Look at my profile and review everything I've posted. My advice is meant to help, not boost my ego. I won't get into a pissing contest in this forum. I WILL take 03------ on in any private test of engineering education and experience. Take my advice or don't- I don't care.

If you asked me to sell you Amsoil products, I would refuse, even though I could do it. I only suggested that you look at their information. Which includes test data proving that their lubricants are superior to Mobil 1 and all other brand name refinery versions of synthetic engine oils. As an Amsoil dealer, 03------ obviously doesn't make much money representing Amsoil.


The quality of an engine oil is not dependent upon the car that it is used in.
The best oil is the best oil. How it behaves in your car is dependent upon the condition of your car and how you drive the car. If you only make short trips and never fully warm up the engine, the oil will quickly become contaminated with unburned fuel that blows by the unexpanded cold compression rings and engine block.

If you have a poor quality oil or air filter, the best oil will quickly become contaminated with particulate matter that abrades the bearings, rings, and cylinder liners away. The poorest mineral oil will contaminate itself and will quickly become sludge as the smaller molecules in it evaporate away. If you overheat the engine with a coolant leak, you may warp the cylinder head or otherwise break the head gasket, which may allow engine coolant to contaminate and dilute the engine oil. The best oil in the world cannot keep damage from occurring under these circumstances.

Amsoil's 25000 mile drain interval is based upon the use of Amsoi's best quality spin-on filters, and their own air filters. I do not intend to use Amsoil synthetic engine oil for 25000 miles myself, only because that would be over 3 years of driving and sitting in the driveway. If you drive a LOT of miles per year, this performance could be useful to you. If you had enough room under the hood to add another filter system, Amsoil's Bypass Filter System could make it possible to never change your oil again. However, yearly oil analysis is necessary to find out if secondary contamination, like a blown head gasket, is contaminating the oil with engine byproducts.

As said in my last post, educate yourself. Don't rely on the posts that yell the loudest and claim to be the expert.

GM does fill new Corvette engines with Mobil 1, because it is not in their financial interest to have the car last forever. There is an obvious marketing benefit between GM and Exxon/Mobil.

03------
No, I am not saying that the filter brands you mention are bad. I have no reason to do so. I DO have 25 years of positive personal experience to urge interested parties to look at the available information. The best filters are the ones that keep the most dirt out of the oil circulation. They also publish test data to prove those facts.

 

wow, someone took the wrong understanding here with my post. and pulling the age card is not a very mature way of trying to discredit me and weak of you, esp since you dont know where i am in life @ 21. i dont care how old you are or who you are. lol, i dont base my ego of post counts (i dont have much more than you anyways). Your intentions are good, i never said they werent.

I never discredited you or your knowledge/history (i even agreed with you in some threads), but i only stated that i do not recommend sticking to amsoil's 25k interval period and that not everyone should stick to that 25k interval as everyone's ENGINE (never said anything about quaity of oil) is not in the same conditions as the ones being tested in Amsoil's testing. The only way to knw if your car is favorable to extended intervals is via oil test.

I never questioned amsoil's quality, or any other oil's. Like i said (and you as well), its the not the quality of oil that determines the oil's life. StopNGo driving, short trips, hard driving, etc etc. (AS YOU SAID also) contaminates oil. (dont you see we're saying the same thing??) That is why i never recommend any of my customers to actually go thru the 25k mile-plan. Most i recommend is 10k. I only sell to an exclusive few. I dont do this for a living, its just a connection thats convienent to have.

LOL, i was gona tell YOU to read Amsoil's site b/c it clearly states that users with aftermarket air induction/exhaust systems should NOT stick to the 25k mile-plan (most ppl here have such equipment, and read the other exclusions). but thinking that you know the amsoil site like the Bible, i thought you would know that.

I agree with most of this, except the part about the 25k recommendation again and dual filtration system. If you're a granny and drive civil all the time, then yes, try for the 25k interval. But i still wouldnt do it. The dual filtration system is not practical at all on the Honda Fits. This may result in a huge loss of oil pressure in the system. Low oil psi + WOT = bad news. Blown headgasket can be detected by significant loss of coolant and/or constant white smoke out of exhaust on non-winter months. Oil test also allows you to see how frequent you should change your oil. "never changing your oil again", since when was changing your oil is such a chore to where you cant spend 30-40mins, $30 ($20 5qt M1/$6-10 filter (wix/M1/hamp/etc) and to go such great lengths to avoid changing their oil.

wow, so i guess Porsches, Vipers, SRT10's etc dont last forever. as they all do come factory filled with M1. Hmm....if you're saying it like that, maybe ALL Honda, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Subaru, etc wont last either b/c they dont even use synthetic oil!!! on snap!

There may be a marketing benefit behind the joint use of M1, but the functional benefit is what counts.

I can see you're technical-savy, but do you have enough marketing knowledge/experience to see Amsoil's odd marketing tactics. Amsoil does not allow dealers (or anyone) to sell Amsoil products online without sending customers to their website to do the actual purchasing. You cannot stock it and sell it on your personal shopping system online. You can stock it but you can only sell it in a store-front. They do not associate themselves with ANY company for their own odd reasons. Who knows, maybe GM/BMW/Porsche have already tried to contact Amsoil about joint business but Amsoil declined. So they went with the next best thing, Mobil1. Amsoil wants to actively sell/market their products themselves. They do not want middle-men making profits. They dont even contract to large retailers such as Walmart, Autozone, etc. They want to be the ONLY source where consumers can get their products.

yes, i dont doubt your positive experience with Amsoil. ITS GOOD SHIT!!! but look again at Amsoil's oil filter comparison chart. Its comparing itself to "Other synthetic Blend companies". keyword, "BLEND". M1 uses full synthetic nanofibers much like Amsoil's. Even M1 has their own extended drain filters. Hmm....curious as to why Amsoil also market Wix filters on their own site when you are claiming that Amsoil is best in filtration in all aspects, strikes me. Amsoil's own site states this about WIX:

all in all, i agree with most of your points, and never doubted your experience and good intentions, but i just do not agree with the 25k interval period and recommend anyone doing it. i dont care what brand, i dont see why anyone would want to keep gunk built up inside your oil filter for such long periods. it has no where to go but in the filter as any good filter does, but keeping it there any longer just slows filtration down as the filter becomes more clogged over time.

you have to see that all these oil companies are using the "extended drain intervals" as more of a marketing tactic to attract customers that are not worried about changing their oil religiously. People will buy whatever makes their life easier, esp people who are less knowledgeable.



i've used/using M1 for all the cars in my family. The GMC suburban has lasted well over 100k miles. i started using M1 on it @ ~60k. Running strong as the day we got it. So much for GM not counting on their cars to last right? i'm actually about to start a personal oil testing on it. I am about to drain out the M1, put Amsoil+amsoil EaO filter in there. and run it for 10k. Short stops/trips, stopngo, towing, heavy loads, you name it, its going thru those conditions. (As it already does) i am going to be sending off both the current M1 in it right now and the amsoil to Blackstone Labs for testing.


This is not a pissing contest. You became offensive first. I've done my reading well before applying for amsoil, so dont say that i didnt read. I have to know about what goes into my cars before i use them, let alone to market them. But when learning about things, you dont always take everything as cold hard truth. Companies are more concerned about trying to market their products vs. informing people. I'm sure you agree.