Fit Could be competative in H-Stock (Auto-X)
#1
Fit Could be competative in H-Stock (Auto-X)
So I went to the SCCA Solo National Championships. I ran in FSAE but I worked the H-Stock heat. The field was full of Mini's but there were a couple of cars that were doing pretty good. Namely, a Mazda 3. I dont know if it was an S or an i, but it was only .3 seconds behind the fastest guy (a mini cooper). I think that there may be hope for the Fit.
#3
The test is how the FIT does on a national level with very skillful drivers and with the right competition tires.
At the local level I think the FIT could do quite well in H-stock.
Not unlike the base MINI cooper it has enough power, light weight, decent sized stock rims, and is agile enough.
Autocross courses are designed for nimble cars at moderate to low speeds.
You don't need that much power and do well with the help of the PAX handicap. You can run about 3.6 seconds slower on a 40 second course and beat the "fast and powerful" competition.
At the local level I think the FIT could do quite well in H-stock.
Not unlike the base MINI cooper it has enough power, light weight, decent sized stock rims, and is agile enough.
Autocross courses are designed for nimble cars at moderate to low speeds.
You don't need that much power and do well with the help of the PAX handicap. You can run about 3.6 seconds slower on a 40 second course and beat the "fast and powerful" competition.
#4
The fit is very good at keeping a decent speed through opposite lock type of corners. It does lean a fair bit but it's a nice controllable and predictable lean that is the more desired kind of roll. The fit will understeer at higher speeds but at low to medium speeds it's pretty chuckable and fairly quick.
Momentum is it's best friend however.
Momentum is it's best friend however.
#5
To be or not to be?
I think if you want to have fun driving with a stock FIT or FIT Sport you'll be just fine.
Driver skill counts the most so just be smooth and don't try to be too fast or take your time and coast alot.
In any event autocrossing is a fun event that is largely social- seeing many other cars out there and them checking your FIT out (you're likely to be one of the first).
You don't need much. Some gas, a helmet (you can rent one), some race numbers that are magnetic or you can print some (8" number for each door and 4" tall class number for each door "HS" for H-stock). Any number and just tape the printed number - black on white paper is good- onto the doors. Some shoes and remember to show up early- to register and walk the course a few times. You don't need to be a member of Sport car club of America but you will pay a little more for each event until you do join. It's a one year membership and you get a magazine called "Sports Car" each month.
Once you start to add upgrades and mods you can be ineligible for stock class racing. Then you go into more competitive classes but you can just run there and have some fun too. A more competitive class allows for more mods and hopefully faster times but due to driver skill the results do vary. The modified classes are penalized with smaller handicaps for overall times. Many drivers do best by starting in the stock classes first, do well, then move up over time.
Starting in a highly modified class is perhaps the most difficult unless you just want to do your mods as you please and just drive and have fun. It's really difficult to make up the handicap plus the other drivers are pretty tough to beat and can be experienced.
When driving a new car (to you) it will take awhile to get the hang of your car- handling and performance limits need to be learned and honed. Only a few drivers can do alot right out of the start. If you have driving experience like go karting then great. If not then give yourself some time to get some experience.
Driving in the H-stock class does allow for some modifications:
Any drop in air filter using the stock intake box- no aftermarket cold air intake upgrades.
Any Cat-back or axle back exhaust- NO headers
Any stock sized shocks.
Any suspension alignment using stock suspension parts
Any grade of fuel, engine oil, brake fluid
Any brake pad that fits into the stock brake caliper
Any DOT approved non slick tires on stock sized rims (can be OEM or equivalent)- competition or R compound tires are allowed but not legal for street use so you'd need two sets of tires.
No rims beyond the stock sized 14" and 15" wheels in the same width and with similar wheel offset plus or minus 0.25" difference
No exterior body panel, fender or spoiler upgrades
No short shifter or shift knob upgrades
Autocrossing is known as Solo racing
http://scca.org/Solo/Solo2.asp?IdS=017952-7182650&x=050|030&~=
Above all, have fun and enjoy driving your FIT.
Driver skill counts the most so just be smooth and don't try to be too fast or take your time and coast alot.
In any event autocrossing is a fun event that is largely social- seeing many other cars out there and them checking your FIT out (you're likely to be one of the first).
You don't need much. Some gas, a helmet (you can rent one), some race numbers that are magnetic or you can print some (8" number for each door and 4" tall class number for each door "HS" for H-stock). Any number and just tape the printed number - black on white paper is good- onto the doors. Some shoes and remember to show up early- to register and walk the course a few times. You don't need to be a member of Sport car club of America but you will pay a little more for each event until you do join. It's a one year membership and you get a magazine called "Sports Car" each month.
Once you start to add upgrades and mods you can be ineligible for stock class racing. Then you go into more competitive classes but you can just run there and have some fun too. A more competitive class allows for more mods and hopefully faster times but due to driver skill the results do vary. The modified classes are penalized with smaller handicaps for overall times. Many drivers do best by starting in the stock classes first, do well, then move up over time.
Starting in a highly modified class is perhaps the most difficult unless you just want to do your mods as you please and just drive and have fun. It's really difficult to make up the handicap plus the other drivers are pretty tough to beat and can be experienced.
When driving a new car (to you) it will take awhile to get the hang of your car- handling and performance limits need to be learned and honed. Only a few drivers can do alot right out of the start. If you have driving experience like go karting then great. If not then give yourself some time to get some experience.
Driving in the H-stock class does allow for some modifications:
Any drop in air filter using the stock intake box- no aftermarket cold air intake upgrades.
Any Cat-back or axle back exhaust- NO headers
Any stock sized shocks.
Any suspension alignment using stock suspension parts
Any grade of fuel, engine oil, brake fluid
Any brake pad that fits into the stock brake caliper
Any DOT approved non slick tires on stock sized rims (can be OEM or equivalent)- competition or R compound tires are allowed but not legal for street use so you'd need two sets of tires.
No rims beyond the stock sized 14" and 15" wheels in the same width and with similar wheel offset plus or minus 0.25" difference
No exterior body panel, fender or spoiler upgrades
No short shifter or shift knob upgrades
Autocrossing is known as Solo racing
http://scca.org/Solo/Solo2.asp?IdS=017952-7182650&x=050|030&~=
Above all, have fun and enjoy driving your FIT.
Last edited by MINI-Fit; 10-01-2006 at 08:24 PM.
#6
I did really well in H-Stock
just a few examples of the times that day...
just a few examples of the times that day...
Originally Posted by www.dlbracing.com
1t 14/STB........JUN SAMSON 03 MITS LANCER EVO 69.031
2. 5/STB........TIM SCHOPPE 00 HOND S2000 71.203
3. 51/STB........ZACHARY FOX 03 HOND S2000 71.261
3. 411/HS.........JEFF CATT 07 HOND FIT 71.695
4. 240/HS.........CHARLES NEWTON 05 SCIO TC 72.166
5. 2/HS.........KENNETH NGUYEN 02 NISS SENTRA 72.867
6. 3/HS.........VIJETH CHENGAPPA 05 FORD FOCUS ZX3 73.141
1t 352/BS.........DONOVAN BROWN 97 BMW M3 63.721
2. 69/BS.........RICARDO BARNES 98 BMW M3 63.739
3. 74/BS.........CLIF T 00 BMW M ROADSTER 67.862
1t 30/CS.........PAUL FLORES 04 MAZD MX5 64.380
2. 0/CS.........RICHARD TAAKE 00 MAZD MX-5 MIATA 71.235
1t 10/DS.........LEONARD KIRK 05 SUBA WRX 65.667
2. 6/DS.........CHRIS LEVITZ 06 MAZD MAZDASPEED 69.989
3. 22/DS.........ALREX UY 97 ACUR INTEGRA TY 73.460
2. 5/STB........TIM SCHOPPE 00 HOND S2000 71.203
3. 51/STB........ZACHARY FOX 03 HOND S2000 71.261
3. 411/HS.........JEFF CATT 07 HOND FIT 71.695
4. 240/HS.........CHARLES NEWTON 05 SCIO TC 72.166
5. 2/HS.........KENNETH NGUYEN 02 NISS SENTRA 72.867
6. 3/HS.........VIJETH CHENGAPPA 05 FORD FOCUS ZX3 73.141
1t 352/BS.........DONOVAN BROWN 97 BMW M3 63.721
2. 69/BS.........RICARDO BARNES 98 BMW M3 63.739
3. 74/BS.........CLIF T 00 BMW M ROADSTER 67.862
1t 30/CS.........PAUL FLORES 04 MAZD MX5 64.380
2. 0/CS.........RICHARD TAAKE 00 MAZD MX-5 MIATA 71.235
1t 10/DS.........LEONARD KIRK 05 SUBA WRX 65.667
2. 6/DS.........CHRIS LEVITZ 06 MAZD MAZDASPEED 69.989
3. 22/DS.........ALREX UY 97 ACUR INTEGRA TY 73.460
#7
Some slightly better times at a different/later event.
25 1 124 X2 David Duxbury 1985 Mazda RX7 Red Duxbury Consulting -
R1 53.745 R2 52.058 R3 51.688 R4 51.937
R5 50.731* R6 50.797
51 2 240 X2 CHARLES NEWTON BLACK TIBERON
R1 59.921 R2 59.521 R3 57.761 R4 ( 2.000) 58.616
R5 58.339 R6 55.431*
11 1 192 X3 Robert Horton 2004 Honda S2000 Yellow
R1 (DNF) 50.137 R2 ( 0.000) 49.730 R3 ( 0.000) 49.043* R4 ( 0.000) 49.124
R5 ( 0.000) 50.678 R6 ( 0.000) 49.997
20 2 216 X3 Chung Ying 2001 Mazda Miata Red eh, my paycheck... a
R1 ( 2.000) 52.561 R2 ( 6.000) 56.666 R3 ( 2.000) 52.579 R4 50.077*
R5 ( 6.000) 56.643 R6 ( 2.000) 51.948
32 3 10 X3 Peggy Newman 1999 Mazda Miata 10AE Blue
R1 51.938 R2 (DNF) 51.304 R3 52.334 R4 52.347
R5 51.733 R6 51.092*
43 4 280 X3 Bill Strobl 1999 Mazda Miata Black DFWMiata.com
R1 ( 2.000) 55.207 R2 53.585 R3 ( 2.000) 55.583 R4 53.865
R5 53.180* R6 53.191
44 5 158 X3 Charles Shem 1990 Mazda Miata Red
R1 55.418 R2 54.158 R3 53.986 R4 54.417
R5 53.384* R6 53.633
49 6 411 X3 Jeff Catt 2007 Honda Fit Black
R1 56.575 R2 (DNF) 62.422 R3 54.450* R4 55.400
R5 ( 2.000) 57.939 R6 54.585
54 7 2 X3 CHARLIE LEMMO 99 MAXIMA SILVER
R1 63.465 R2 61.767 R3 ( 2.000) 62.047 R4 (DNF) 60.407
R5 ( 4.000) 64.603 R6 59.478*
2 1 21 X4 Jim Kritzler 1990 Chevrolet Corvette Blue Just 4 Fun Scrapbook
R1 ( 0.000) 47.258 R2 ( 0.000) 47.264 R3 ( 0.000) 46.514 R4 ( 2.000) 48.827
R5 ( 0.000) 45.910* R6 ( 0.000) 46.607
3 2 221 X4 Michael Kritzler 1990 Chevrolet Corvette Blue His Mommy & Just 4 F
R1 ( 0.000) 47.093 R2 ( 0.000) 46.797 R3 ( 0.000) 45.991* R4 ( 0.000) 46.195
R5 ( 0.000) 46.765
R1 53.745 R2 52.058 R3 51.688 R4 51.937
R5 50.731* R6 50.797
51 2 240 X2 CHARLES NEWTON BLACK TIBERON
R1 59.921 R2 59.521 R3 57.761 R4 ( 2.000) 58.616
R5 58.339 R6 55.431*
11 1 192 X3 Robert Horton 2004 Honda S2000 Yellow
R1 (DNF) 50.137 R2 ( 0.000) 49.730 R3 ( 0.000) 49.043* R4 ( 0.000) 49.124
R5 ( 0.000) 50.678 R6 ( 0.000) 49.997
20 2 216 X3 Chung Ying 2001 Mazda Miata Red eh, my paycheck... a
R1 ( 2.000) 52.561 R2 ( 6.000) 56.666 R3 ( 2.000) 52.579 R4 50.077*
R5 ( 6.000) 56.643 R6 ( 2.000) 51.948
32 3 10 X3 Peggy Newman 1999 Mazda Miata 10AE Blue
R1 51.938 R2 (DNF) 51.304 R3 52.334 R4 52.347
R5 51.733 R6 51.092*
43 4 280 X3 Bill Strobl 1999 Mazda Miata Black DFWMiata.com
R1 ( 2.000) 55.207 R2 53.585 R3 ( 2.000) 55.583 R4 53.865
R5 53.180* R6 53.191
44 5 158 X3 Charles Shem 1990 Mazda Miata Red
R1 55.418 R2 54.158 R3 53.986 R4 54.417
R5 53.384* R6 53.633
49 6 411 X3 Jeff Catt 2007 Honda Fit Black
R1 56.575 R2 (DNF) 62.422 R3 54.450* R4 55.400
R5 ( 2.000) 57.939 R6 54.585
54 7 2 X3 CHARLIE LEMMO 99 MAXIMA SILVER
R1 63.465 R2 61.767 R3 ( 2.000) 62.047 R4 (DNF) 60.407
R5 ( 4.000) 64.603 R6 59.478*
2 1 21 X4 Jim Kritzler 1990 Chevrolet Corvette Blue Just 4 Fun Scrapbook
R1 ( 0.000) 47.258 R2 ( 0.000) 47.264 R3 ( 0.000) 46.514 R4 ( 2.000) 48.827
R5 ( 0.000) 45.910* R6 ( 0.000) 46.607
3 2 221 X4 Michael Kritzler 1990 Chevrolet Corvette Blue His Mommy & Just 4 F
R1 ( 0.000) 47.093 R2 ( 0.000) 46.797 R3 ( 0.000) 45.991* R4 ( 0.000) 46.195
R5 ( 0.000) 46.765
#8
Originally Posted by GoFits
I did really well in H-Stock
just a few examples of the times that day...
just a few examples of the times that day...
You did really well. Congrats.
However. Rules for H-stock state that you must use wheels that are factory installed. So for the fit that would be 14" or the Fit sport's 15".
The dealer optional HFP 16x 6.5" doesn't qualify for stock classes. This would likely push you into F-Street Performance if you run competition rubber or Street Touring S if you have street tires. Since you finished first you can be challenged by competitors in H-stock. Then you have to show proof that you got your rims factory installed.
Technically speaking the base FIT should run with stock 14" rims while the FIT sport should run with stock 15" rims. If one did swap them bigger or smaller there could potentially be a complaint since there is no factory option for upgrading or downgrading tires.
Your SCCA region will vary in how closely technical rules are enforced but in my region we would call someone on this point. We have about 130 drivers at each event and competition is keen. When a driver isn't competitive in times then most other drivers don't complain and let you have some fun.
Anyway, keep up the great driving.
#9
Ha, someone else on here was at Nats! I ran in STX. Since Nats is over I will prob run the Fit some local events to give the other car a rest. We have a real fast local guy that runs an 84 CRX, will be tough competition to me and I will have to borrow some tires/wheels but should be fun.
#10
Wow.. didn't expect to see an autox related thread on this board..
You could run either 14" or 15" if you just convert your Fit to that trim in its entirety... I mean what exactly is the difference between the
two trims other than sound system and various cosmetic body
spoilers?
You could run either 14" or 15" if you just convert your Fit to that trim in its entirety... I mean what exactly is the difference between the
two trims other than sound system and various cosmetic body
spoilers?
#11
Originally Posted by JT-KGY
Wow.. didn't expect to see an autox related thread on this board..
You could run either 14" or 15" if you just convert your Fit to that trim in its entirety... I mean what exactly is the difference between the
two trims other than sound system and various cosmetic body
spoilers?
You could run either 14" or 15" if you just convert your Fit to that trim in its entirety... I mean what exactly is the difference between the
two trims other than sound system and various cosmetic body
spoilers?
The SCCA rules are explicit regarding which stock items are required to qualify for stock class racing. It is there to ensure that competition is fair for every person competing in the stock classes.
Technically you cannot mix and match parts. For example- you cannot remove a body panel like a side skirt or bumper from the FIT sport and put it on your Base Fit- there is a rule that forbids that due to the nature of aero kit upgrade parts.
If you follow the rules then the base FIT should run with 14" wheels and the FIT sport should run with 15" wheels all of stock size. The advantage comes from swapping out the tires of your choice that are DOT approved including competition R compound tires but these are not for street use so now you are looking at two sets of tires.
Optionally you can use street tires that are fine for both street and autocross use. They typically cost less wear longer but are not as high grip as R compound tires. Falken and Hankook make these. Others prefer to mount track tires like the Toyo Ra1 and drive those on the street and track and at autocross. They will work and wear out kinda fast but give no wet traction since they are nearly slick to begin with.
In your region the SCCA officials can choose to allow a little fudging of your setup if they feel that no competitors would complain and it gives you no significant advantage to do those changes. Often those drivers within your own class will monitor each other and suggest possible options and solutions in a friendly mannor. No one wants to have an unfair advantage or allow a competitor the same. Otherwise you can choose to compete in a non stock class.
#12
Originally Posted by MINI-Fit
There isn't much difference between the two FIT models and much IS cosmetic.
The SCCA rules are explicit regarding which stock items are required to qualify for stock class racing. It is there to ensure that competition is fair for every person competing in the stock classes.
Technically you cannot mix and match parts. For example- you cannot remove a body panel like a side skirt or bumper from the FIT sport and put it on your Base Fit- there is a rule that forbids that due to the nature of aero kit upgrade parts.
The SCCA rules are explicit regarding which stock items are required to qualify for stock class racing. It is there to ensure that competition is fair for every person competing in the stock classes.
Technically you cannot mix and match parts. For example- you cannot remove a body panel like a side skirt or bumper from the FIT sport and put it on your Base Fit- there is a rule that forbids that due to the nature of aero kit upgrade parts.
Originally Posted by SCCA
Accessories, gauges, indicators, lights and other appearance,
comfort and convenience modifications which have no effect on
performance and/or handling and do not materially reduce the
weight of the car are permitted. This does not allow driver’s seat
substitutions, or the removal of “tow hooks”, a.k.a. “tie-down
loops”. Delayed shutdown devices such as the “Turbo Timer”,
which perform no function while the car is in motion, are permitted.
This does permit the installation of an additional mirror
(e.g. a “Wink”), but does not allow the removal of the original
mirror. “Grounding kits” specifically designed to support sound
systems are permitted but may serve no other purpose.
comfort and convenience modifications which have no effect on
performance and/or handling and do not materially reduce the
weight of the car are permitted. This does not allow driver’s seat
substitutions, or the removal of “tow hooks”, a.k.a. “tie-down
loops”. Delayed shutdown devices such as the “Turbo Timer”,
which perform no function while the car is in motion, are permitted.
This does permit the installation of an additional mirror
(e.g. a “Wink”), but does not allow the removal of the original
mirror. “Grounding kits” specifically designed to support sound
systems are permitted but may serve no other purpose.
are nothing more than cosmetic as they serve no real function. This
means that Fit can run either 15" or 14" in stock class provided that the
rest of the trim differences falls under the allowance of 13.2.A.
But it does sound like that Fit Sport cannot remove any of the added
parts (from regular Fit ) since it will be materially reduce the weight of the
car.
#13
Originally Posted by JT-KGY
This means that Fit can run either 15" or 14" in stock class provided that the rest of the trim differences falls under the allowance of 13.2.A.
#14
Originally Posted by wyy183
If someone wants to get "picky" then all they have to do is look up the VIN of the vehicle. Base comes with 14". Sport comes with 15". Anything else and you are not running H-Stock.
I'm trying to say that you probably can run either size...
#15
Originally Posted by JT-KGY
I'm trying to say that you probably can run either size...
Last saturday I went to El Tuque International Race Track and do a few "parel (don't know how it is spell) laps" just to check out the track and the Fit goes really well. I am dying to run in the track days but no money and anyway the year is ending and better wait to the next season.
Anyway The Fit, I wait till the guy in the front leave me space in order to hit the curves fast, and it goes fine, It do understeer but it is lacking good tires, and it needs a LSD so bad, I mean, the front insie tire start to hoop pretty bad, but again we were going so slow that I sometimes had to put first, and there is the big tire spin. And I think it will do considerably better with more speed (momentum ) wich will be really easy due to the lack of power. Ill have to spin the engine in order to have power so resuming, It is a great, fun car to track.......
good tires, a set of springs ( not too low) and presto!!!!
BTW, can I put springs and stay stock?????? please advise
#16
Originally Posted by carlosalicea
BTW, can I put springs and stay stock?????? please advise
#17
Originally Posted by wyy183
You can change the springs, as long as you maintain stock ride height. If you change the height, by lowering, you are no longer in Stock.
I was thinking on eibach that I belive are the ones with less drop (less than an inch), but tell me please (just to know)
#18
Originally Posted by wyy183
You can change the springs, as long as you maintain stock ride height. If you change the height, by lowering, you are no longer in Stock.
Where you get that info? You cannot change springs... you cannot
even change springs of the same model from different years.
#19
It's a little annoying that the HONDA wheels on MY HONDA are not considered factory...I had no choice in the matter and they do say honda on them...Dealer installed options carrieing the factory brand should be considered stock.
I'm not going to whine about it, I'm not fast enough to be considered a threat but I will try and locate some cheap 4x100 wheels and grippy tires if I continue to Autox.
I took some videos...watched one today. Made me want to do it again SOON!
I'm not going to whine about it, I'm not fast enough to be considered a threat but I will try and locate some cheap 4x100 wheels and grippy tires if I continue to Autox.
I took some videos...watched one today. Made me want to do it again SOON!
#20
Originally Posted by GoFits
It's a little annoying that the HONDA wheels on MY HONDA are not considered factory...I had no choice in the matter and they do say honda on them...Dealer installed options carrieing the factory brand should be considered stock.
as long as they are the same size, same width and nearly the same offset
(+- 0.25 inch) as the factory installed (not dealer installed) wheels.
Dealer installed wheels are consider aftermarket... I see dealers install 18"
on regular Civic in showrooms all the time.