I think I will pass on the undercoating. Here in Vancouver, we get snow approximately twice a year, and salted roads once a year (because the first snowfall is like 2 inches). Don't think it will be that much of a problem.

 

Around here, you won't find a 1990-1993 Integra without a fair amount of rust in the rear fenders, unless it was rustproofed, EXTREMELY well cleaned throught the winter, was winter stored or has had bodywork.

My 1992 Integra GS-R that I bought in 1998 and haven't driven in the winter since has some rust on the gas lines. The rest of the body is almost mint, and everyone keeps asking me who repainted it.

Around here, rusted gas lines, gas tanks, seized suspension bushings, etc... on a Honda/Acura from the early 1990s is more common than riced up Civics with fugly body kits.

Here are a few pictures of a 1992 4 door Integra I had for a while. The rust spots on it are typical for the average 1992 Integra around here.

http://www.b17gsr.ca/92_GS/rear_sml.JPG

http://www.b17gsr.ca/92_GS/fender_left_rear_sml.JPG (look at the suspension components and chassis)

My Fit will be getting treated by a local rustproofing shop once I buy one.

 

I wish I could afford to live in Vancouver. In 1986 we went to the Expo, and I was amazed when I saw so many older cars from the early 1970s that still looked brand new.

Used cars in Vancouver also keep their value much better than cars in Ontario. All that rain must be good for something!

 

As long is the Fit is no worse than my Integra I will be fine, as will most people. It does look like you have some pretty extreme conditions to get that kind of rust on a 92 - still that is nothing like it used to be. When I lived in Rochester (NY) some of the cars from the 70's would rust through the sheet metal in 4 or 5 years - that is serious rust. I sure it was the same in your area.

I do wash my car about every week even in the winter, so that does help quite a bit. That rust on the body of the '92 would not have been prevented by undercoating - but washing often could have helped (maybe it was - some carwashes recycle the water) and waxing helps some as well. The wheel wells actually look pretty good.

Part of the reason that the edges of the wheel well rust first is because there is a small groove there where water sticks - this is exactly the reason why undercoating should be applied carefully. Any creases or gaps will collect water in a similar fashion.

Undercoating is not the end of the world, but I would still be cautious and use a reputable place, and would avoid it entirely in less extreme conditions.

Never been to Vancouver - always thought it sounded nice. Rain isn't too bad - at least you don't have to shovel it.

 

Factory clear-coat option against paint fade is one of the biggest scams out there, ranked up with upholstery scotchguard protection you can by in the can.

Dealerships as tight-wad as they are would never paint one's car over unless paint fade is so major it turned to a different colour and even then they would blame you for nuclear fallout.

As for undercoating the undercarriage, why not? Just hit up a WALMART $39.97 job yearly and let them just coat the sucker. As your car ages, you'll have way less suspension, groans, moans and plus mechanical work to get off bolts will have a pre-lube instead of them using the torch and bolt busters and cutters to get off suspension parts, muffler brackets etc.

 

I don't know what kind of undercoat goop Canadians get but Ziebart sold stateside hardens into an impenetrable barrier that skins knuckles and brings grown men to tears when you have to get through it to repair something...

 

Thanks for all your input. Real-world exp. has diff. opinions and that is normal depending where we live, etc.

I cancelled my appt. with Ziebart because when I talked to them, and remember this is a new, unknown model of car, they said undercoating is diff. than rustproofing. Read the diff. in the links below. Undercoating, Rustproofing, Sound Barrier.

http://ziebart.mb.ca/

 

I've been using Metropolitan rustproofing on my vehicles. Since it's more oil based, you can wipe it off with lots of elbow grease and still loosen any bolt. I was impressed at how easily I could loosen my brake lines after 5 rustproofing treatments.

 

It seems as if there are a couple kinds of undercoating. I've seen the rock hard one that is used in fender wells to prevent stonechips and sound deadening. What I'm used to is the oil-based thick gook that just coats the crap outta everything underneath the chasis; it is not a true rustproof as stated, but has some rust inhibitive properties.

 

That's where I had my 88 civic treated in the sig below. Almost yearly treatments since new (missed a few especially lately).

 

Looks like it was a good investment! Rare seeing a 88-91 Civic in Quebec in that condition!

 

I've had my 1992 Mazda 323 rustchecked almost every year since I bought it 10 years ago. It's still doing very well, although I now have leaks and the back seats are always damp, and the brake lines rusted out where the rustcheck didn't reach. Fortunately, a brake line broke when my mechanic was test-driving the car around his parking lot.

In comparison, one of my friends had a 1992 Protegé that he never rust checked. He had to get rid of it over a year and a half ago, in part because the rust.

Incidentally, the car was also killed, from what I understand, by the dealer’s overzealous maintenance schedule where they changed a lot of things and replaced a lot of fluids, charging lots of money. Net result – the car wouldn’t start properly anymore.

 

That means there was an incompetant mechanic. Even if you change everything, it will start if done correctly.

 

That's right and that mechanic was employed by a DEALER. But let's not go there

 

Some dealers have a better reputation than others, and for good reason.

 

Have you ever saw a galvanized light post rusted ?

 

Yes. I work for an engineer firm. We get to see all kinds of odd stuff that shouldn't happen.

All you need is a scratch it the metal, and moisture, salt and other contaminants will do the rest. Cars also have more spots the moist dirt can get trapped and increase the rusting process.

 

Our dealer told us to beware of the undercoating if you park in your own driveway or garage. Apparently it drips like crazy and will stain your ground. He didn't recommend we do it. Just an fyi.

 

Can anyone confirm if that is true?
Any Brand that I should stick with?
I called a mechanic shop and asked for a quote.
He said, $50Cad for underneath the car and $80 for underneath the car and doors.
Anymore info will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Kevin L

Ps: Sorry for HiJack.

 

dealer is a ripoff, you pay $900 for their package which I can get it done for $300 exact same cause they send to local shop, don't get the liquid type rust proof cause you have to respray every year, thats why at the dealer they are called "lifetime", the rustproof is like yellow stuff sticks around the doors, hood and trunk area, i just got my aunt's new Civic done for the exact same thing from the local shop for 3 bills, I am going to do that to my GD first thing when I get the car, you have to do it in Toronto unless you are not going to drive it in the winter, the salt is terrible, the package includes paint diamond wax or something like that, undercoating, rust proof and inside scotchguard for $300 instead of $900 from dealer, its the exact same thing they even have the same display like the one they show in the dealer's showroom, let me know if any of you guys in TO are interested, I have tons of rust on my 91 Teg so I will not cheap on rustproof anymore.