TPMS Issue
#1
TPMS Issue
The tire pressure light came on my 15 Fit about mid week. I immediately checked the pressures and I didn't see any problems...33 psi front, 32 psi back. The light is still on. I checked the pressures again today and they're still fine. I made a service appointment for this week. Ugh.
#3
33psi is about the correct tire pressure for my 2015 LX (listed on driver's side door panel). On page 336 of the Fit Owner's manual, it gives simple directions:
"Press and hold the TPMS button until the low
tire pressure/TPMS indicator blinks twice,
indicating the calibration process has begun.
• If the low tire pressure/TPMS indicator does
not blink, confirm the above conditions
then press and hold the TPMS button again.
• The calibration process finishes
automatically."
"->>>TPMS Calibration
• TPMS cannot be calibrated if a compact spare tire is
installed.
• The calibration process requires approximately 30
minutes of cumulative driving at speeds between
30-60 mph (48-97 km/h).
• During this period, if the ignition is turned on*1 and
the vehicle is not moved within 45 seconds, you
may notice the low tire pressure/TPMS indicator
comes on briefly. This is normal and indicates that
the calibration process is not yet complete.
If the snow chains are installed, remove them before
calibrating the TPMS.
If the low tire pressure/TPMS indicator comes on even
when the properly inflated specified regular tires are
installed, have your vehicle checked by a dealer."
2015 Fit Owner's manual linked below:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...u/5A1515OM.pdf
PS (I had a similar issue except my Fit came with max tire pressure from dealership of about 44psi that my wife was driving with for almost a week).
"Press and hold the TPMS button until the low
tire pressure/TPMS indicator blinks twice,
indicating the calibration process has begun.
• If the low tire pressure/TPMS indicator does
not blink, confirm the above conditions
then press and hold the TPMS button again.
• The calibration process finishes
automatically."
"->>>TPMS Calibration
• TPMS cannot be calibrated if a compact spare tire is
installed.
• The calibration process requires approximately 30
minutes of cumulative driving at speeds between
30-60 mph (48-97 km/h).
• During this period, if the ignition is turned on*1 and
the vehicle is not moved within 45 seconds, you
may notice the low tire pressure/TPMS indicator
comes on briefly. This is normal and indicates that
the calibration process is not yet complete.
If the snow chains are installed, remove them before
calibrating the TPMS.
If the low tire pressure/TPMS indicator comes on even
when the properly inflated specified regular tires are
installed, have your vehicle checked by a dealer."
2015 Fit Owner's manual linked below:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/p...u/5A1515OM.pdf
PS (I had a similar issue except my Fit came with max tire pressure from dealership of about 44psi that my wife was driving with for almost a week).
#5
I've found that, for me, a pressure of about 4-5 PSI above the specified pressures results in more even tire wear. At the recommended pressure I tend to wear our the shoulders of the tires before the centers. This surprised me because I'm not Ricky Racer and don't really pull much sideways G.
#7
To counteract that you brake earlier
#8
The tire pressure light came on my 15 Fit about mid week. I immediately checked the pressures and I didn't see any problems...33 psi front, 32 psi back. The light is still on. I checked the pressures again today and they're still fine. I made a service appointment for this week. Ugh.
Sorry to hear about your brand new Fit and the TPMS light coming on. We would like to review the situation with you. Please private message us with your VIN, mileage, and dealer so we can better assist you.
Thank you,
Jonathan
#9
Autocross people have found that increased tire pressures actually improve grip. The only real downside is that the ride is rougher.
#10
Instead of asking, WHICH TPMS light it is.
One TPMS light, being the one that looks like a woman's butt, means the pressure is low and is affected by temperature.
The other TPMS light, the ACTUAL letters, means a system malfunction (in a few cases, improper activation/calibration at PDI), assuming you haven't installed a new set of sensors without programming them in. Of course, that can range from low battery in the sensor to a completely fried system. For the few that are related to PDI, simply having someone re-do the PDI portion related to the TPMS usually solves it.
~~~~~
I, myself, have had the TPMS light (letters) for a few weeks now. The sensors are not the original stock sensors, but aftermarkets that I bought with the wheel/tire combo back in March 2011. I plan on taking my Fit to a mechanic to have it checked out later (I should be getting it back from the body shop today). I'm hoping it's just low on battery and as such I bought a set of sensors for the mechanic to install (if it is the case).
The last time I had the letters was when I originally bought the wheel/tire set and hadn't gotten around to getting the IDs programmed in.
And in case anyone is wondering, yes, I've had the low pressure light come on for various reasons... seasonal temp changes AND multiple flat tires.
#11
I find it hilarious that this is the first thing people say when someone says their TPMS light is on...
Instead of asking, WHICH TPMS light it is.
One TPMS light, being the one that looks like a woman's butt, means the pressure is low and is affected by temperature.
The other TPMS light, the ACTUAL letters, means a system malfunction (in a few cases, improper activation/calibration at PDI), assuming you haven't installed a new set of sensors without programming them in. Of course, that can range from low battery in the sensor to a completely fried system. For the few that are related to PDI, simply having someone re-do the PDI portion related to the TPMS usually solves it.
Instead of asking, WHICH TPMS light it is.
One TPMS light, being the one that looks like a woman's butt, means the pressure is low and is affected by temperature.
The other TPMS light, the ACTUAL letters, means a system malfunction (in a few cases, improper activation/calibration at PDI), assuming you haven't installed a new set of sensors without programming them in. Of course, that can range from low battery in the sensor to a completely fried system. For the few that are related to PDI, simply having someone re-do the PDI portion related to the TPMS usually solves it.
The third generation doesn't have pressure sensors in the wheels (as the second generation did/does), but uses an indirect system based on measurements from the ABS wheel speed sensors. There is only one TPMS system light (the "tire pressure is too low" one); any problems with the system itself would presumably also cause the ABS light to be on and the ABS system inoperative.
If the tire pressures are OK, as they are for the original poster, all that's necessary is to reset the system using a special TPMS reset button. This is also required when tires are changed, rotated, or air added or bled off.
#12
What you say is good advice for older Fits, but doesn't apply to the 2015's.
The third generation doesn't have pressure sensors in the wheels (as the second generation did/does), but uses an indirect system based on measurements from the ABS wheel speed sensors. There is only one TPMS system light (the "tire pressure is too low" one); any problems with the system itself would presumably also cause the ABS light to be on and the ABS system inoperative.
If the tire pressures are OK, as they are for the original poster, all that's necessary is to reset the system using a special TPMS reset button. This is also required when tires are changed, rotated, or air added or bled off.
The third generation doesn't have pressure sensors in the wheels (as the second generation did/does), but uses an indirect system based on measurements from the ABS wheel speed sensors. There is only one TPMS system light (the "tire pressure is too low" one); any problems with the system itself would presumably also cause the ABS light to be on and the ABS system inoperative.
If the tire pressures are OK, as they are for the original poster, all that's necessary is to reset the system using a special TPMS reset button. This is also required when tires are changed, rotated, or air added or bled off.
Having it based on indirect measurements seems odd to me, but whatever... as long as it works(?).
#13
No sensors means it's easier to swap tires and wheels (snow tires, for example) and keep the TPMS operating, right? You just have to reset the system with the button instead of having to use the code reader thing like with the sensors?
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