Evilchargerfan's GK5 - Ballin On A Budget, Minus The Ballin Part (poor mans build!)
#402
07/07/2019 - Oil Change + Dumped Out Oil Catch Can, 60000 miles (oil change occured sooner than planned, orig intended to go 15k, had to change it sooner due to a drop in mpg)
Oil = Mobil 1 0w-20, High Mileage Formula
Filter = Purolator PL14610
Catch Can Was FULL, I was able to measure 175ml! (who knows how much excess overflowed from can, into the intake mani)
FUN FACT:
when you let the MM go under 0%, it starts to keep track of negative miles!
Oil = Mobil 1 0w-20, High Mileage Formula
Filter = Purolator PL14610
Catch Can Was FULL, I was able to measure 175ml! (who knows how much excess overflowed from can, into the intake mani)
FUN FACT:
when you let the MM go under 0%, it starts to keep track of negative miles!
Last edited by evilchargerfan; 07-08-2019 at 11:16 AM.
#405
when you make it below 0% you get rewarded with a display that shows negative miles. you should try it, its quite the achievement! action jackson knows whats up, lol
#406
Ah oil change, nice, I did mine last week
Curious how you’re enjoying the new steering wheel - it looks fantastic. I considered it before going with the small RS trim (and switching focus to other mods). Still need to get around to that.
Curious how you’re enjoying the new steering wheel - it looks fantastic. I considered it before going with the small RS trim (and switching focus to other mods). Still need to get around to that.
#409
it is the price for a used OEM Honda duct
i still have my other duct for winter
#410
I'll go ahead and say it, (over used words, fair warning) .... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! (expensive part, but imo, well worth the investment, as it is something that we actually "use" daily)
man, wish ya told me this a week ago. home depot had a sale on floor coverings, I think to the tune of 30% off or something like that.
highly recommended man, it looks rad, and it makes cleaning up spills really convenient!
Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...1355/206479008
Bucaro, 2 things. 1 , you may want to consider closing the "hole" from the radiator area. it lets hot ambient air , and creates a disruption in air flow. some aftermarket company out there even market products that close the gap between radiator and radiator support in an effort to increase air flow from front of car, and back/through the rad. I believe those products are known as radiator "shrouds". I will attach a few pics, to illustrate my thoughts, and also share a pic of my old sumole setup, along with another persons setup
(3 arrows pointing UP illustrate a upward flow of hot air from the front of radiator, and possible disruption of flow from the outside arrows that illustrate air going towards your "scoop")
(as you can see, the sumole fully collects all air via its duct/scoop, and 100% feeds all of that air towards the drop in filter, with no loss of air flow via holes and what not)
(similar pic to prev pic, but with hood closed)
Two - I suggest you also do a resonator delete as well:
Last edited by evilchargerfan; 07-10-2019 at 09:55 AM.
#411
the new steering wheel is AWESOME. the old wheel was hard, plastic. the new wheel feels supple, and comfortable. its something that my hand is always touching, during my 1 hr commute to work. to elaborate, the feel of the wheel has a leather like/premium feel to it, and the SHAPE of it, is night and day diff.... feels "ergo" and extremely comfortable to hold.
I'll go ahead and say it, (over used words, fair warning) .... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! (expensive part, but imo, well worth the investment, as it is something that we actually "use" daily)
man, wish ya told me this a week ago. home depot had a sale on floor coverings, I think to the tune of 30% off or something like that.
highly recommended man, it looks rad, and it makes cleaning up spills really convenient!
Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...1355/206479008
Bucaro, 2 things. 1 , you may want to consider closing the "hole" from the radiator area. it lets hot ambient air , and creates a disruption in air flow. some aftermarket company out there even market products that close the gap between radiator and radiator support in an effort to increase air flow from front of car, and back/through the rad. I believe those products are known as radiator "shrouds". I will attach a few pics, to illustrate my thoughts, and also share a pic of my old sumole setup, along with another persons setup
(3 arrows pointing UP illustrate a upward flow of hot air from the front of radiator, and possible disruption of flow from the outside arrows that illustrate air going towards your "scoop")
(as you can see, the sumole fully collects all air via its duct/scoop, and 100% feeds all of that air towards the drop in filter, with no loss of air flow via holes and what not)
(similar pic to prev pic, but with hood closed)
Two - I suggest you also do a resonator delete as well:
I'll go ahead and say it, (over used words, fair warning) .... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! (expensive part, but imo, well worth the investment, as it is something that we actually "use" daily)
man, wish ya told me this a week ago. home depot had a sale on floor coverings, I think to the tune of 30% off or something like that.
highly recommended man, it looks rad, and it makes cleaning up spills really convenient!
Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...1355/206479008
Bucaro, 2 things. 1 , you may want to consider closing the "hole" from the radiator area. it lets hot ambient air , and creates a disruption in air flow. some aftermarket company out there even market products that close the gap between radiator and radiator support in an effort to increase air flow from front of car, and back/through the rad. I believe those products are known as radiator "shrouds". I will attach a few pics, to illustrate my thoughts, and also share a pic of my old sumole setup, along with another persons setup
(3 arrows pointing UP illustrate a upward flow of hot air from the front of radiator, and possible disruption of flow from the outside arrows that illustrate air going towards your "scoop")
(as you can see, the sumole fully collects all air via its duct/scoop, and 100% feeds all of that air towards the drop in filter, with no loss of air flow via holes and what not)
(similar pic to prev pic, but with hood closed)
Two - I suggest you also do a resonator delete as well:
i definetly will do that to get a better performance
but even as it is currently the engine breathes much better than with the duct sucking air completely from below as it originally comes, this weekend I will make the changes you suggested and I will see the results on track.
I find it funny that of all the cold air intakes that are for sale that I think can give the best result is a TAKEDA brand and looking at the specifications it seems to me that it is exactly the same result of the modifications that I am doing with a couple of improvements to the original intake
#412
Am I right in thinking you just chopped a bit off the front/top of the stock intake?
#413
but firstable i bought an used OEM intake duct, because i need both.
one for track and the other to daily drive or winter
and works definetily well
just need to make some details that my Evil friend tell me to do and thats it
i also have a K&N filter for a better results
#414
Bucaro, contact touge , he has 3d prints of the sumole ram air duct. IMO, it is worth it.
agree'd on AM intakes, they are all really expensive, and prob dont do much (the takeda one looks nice, but is very expensive)
agree'd on AM intakes, they are all really expensive, and prob dont do much (the takeda one looks nice, but is very expensive)
#415
the new steering wheel is AWESOME. the old wheel was hard, plastic. the new wheel feels supple, and comfortable. its something that my hand is always touching, during my 1 hr commute to work. to elaborate, the feel of the wheel has a leather like/premium feel to it, and the SHAPE of it, is night and day diff.... feels "ergo" and extremely comfortable to hold.
I'll go ahead and say it, (over used words, fair warning) .... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! (expensive part, but imo, well worth the investment, as it is something that we actually "use" daily)
I'll go ahead and say it, (over used words, fair warning) .... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! (expensive part, but imo, well worth the investment, as it is something that we actually "use" daily)
#416
hey
i was trying to get a ktuner for my FIT
but the ecu number of my car does not display in the list of the ecus in the ktuner web page
and also show that the ktuner are made for the years 2015-2016
the model of my Fit is 2017 and is made from japan
any one can give a light with this?
i was trying to get a ktuner for my FIT
but the ecu number of my car does not display in the list of the ecus in the ktuner web page
and also show that the ktuner are made for the years 2015-2016
the model of my Fit is 2017 and is made from japan
any one can give a light with this?
#417
hey
i was trying to get a ktuner for my FIT
but the ecu number of my car does not display in the list of the ecus in the ktuner web page
and also show that the ktuner are made for the years 2015-2016
the model of my Fit is 2017 and is made from japan
any one can give a light with this?
i was trying to get a ktuner for my FIT
but the ecu number of my car does not display in the list of the ecus in the ktuner web page
and also show that the ktuner are made for the years 2015-2016
the model of my Fit is 2017 and is made from japan
any one can give a light with this?
they are supposedly working on that / making progress
you should email ktuner and they will ask you to provide some #s from your ECU. with some luck, they have a way to make it work for ya. please keep up posted, alot of 2017+ owners are all in the same situation and want a ktuner as well
#418
they are supposedly working on that / making progress
you should email ktuner and they will ask you to provide some #s from your ECU. with some luck, they have a way to make it work for ya. please keep up posted, alot of 2017+ owners are all in the same situation and want a ktuner as well
you should email ktuner and they will ask you to provide some #s from your ECU. with some luck, they have a way to make it work for ya. please keep up posted, alot of 2017+ owners are all in the same situation and want a ktuner as well
" Alright, you’ll need to order one in order to be able to read the ECU. Once read we can put it in the queue to add! "
#419
Evil, which part do you have in the top on your shocks, the GK piece, or the GE? My rear shocks make a horrible noise. They were pretty bad with the tein springs and konis, and now they are worse with the BC racing coil overs back there. It sounds like looks knocking back there. Car handles amazing, but the sound is driving me kinda crazy over rough bumps. I think it is that GK piece up there like maybe it is worn out??? Alfa38 also had a bit of a discussion on it but appears offline now. Cheers,
d'Art
d'Art
#420
Evil, which part do you have in the top on your shocks, the GK piece, or the GE? My rear shocks make a horrible noise. They were pretty bad with the tein springs and konis, and now they are worse with the BC racing coil overs back there. It sounds like looks knocking back there. Car handles amazing, but the sound is driving me kinda crazy over rough bumps. I think it is that GK piece up there like maybe it is worn out??? Alfa38 also had a bit of a discussion on it but appears offline now. Cheers,
d'Art
d'Art
for the rears, I am using the GK piece. I did order the GE "bush" pieces, but have yet to install them.
I honestly cant think of a way, to make that noise stop. the GK piece is metal, and I believe the noises comes from taht hitting the top where the shock mounts to. I am not certain if the GE "bush" will solve the problem or not. when its not 100 degrees outside.... I promise to try the install and report back