When I had an engine block heater, I used a timer and set it to turn on approx. 2 hours before I left for work in the morning. Leaving it on any longer didn't do anything to heat it up more and just wasted electricity.

 

Agreed, I have a 3 prong grounded timer lying around somewhere that will be perfect for this application. A thermostatic controlled outlet is good too I think, but I agree anything beyond a few hours with it on and its wasting electricity.

 

So a while back I bought some low profile tire chains from Etrailer.com. They were a good investment. Suffice to say that they really do help on the traction. I live in an area of CT where there are nothing but hills, and my house is located on a steep 10% grade that might as well be named "The MurderHorn."




What I want to warn everyone is this. The tire chains fit perfectly around the tire, the chains never come in contact with the rim. However, you see the rubber stabilizer that tightens the chains around the tire. The hooks I have always been careful to hook them IN BETWEEN the rim spokes so the hooks do not scratch the shit out of the rim...well even doing that will not prevent damage as the chains slide and shift on the tire regardless


So my front rims are COMPLETELY scuffed and scratched. Understandably I was kicking myself hard for not taking better precaution. I should have simply bought snow tires out of the gate on cheap steel rims and called it a day. FYI it is only cosmetic damage, tire is mechanically fine. Had I grew a brain sooner I would have put some sort of shield between the hooks of the rubber stabilizer and the rim as a way of protecting it from damage.




All is not lost, I was able to score two brand new OEM sport rims for a decent cost which I will remount my all season tires to. I'll mount some decent snow tires on the scratched rims and use the tire chains on them as needed. Figure why get rid of them, they are scratch and scuffed to shit, so I don't care if they get scratched more, they are truly snow tires now, just much nicer looking snow tires than the average joe would have.


Mistakes made, expensive lesson learned.




FYI: The 2015 does not have TPMS sensors inside the tires. Instead, it uses the rotational speed of each tire as a way to determining the tire pressure is low. A low tire will run slightly slower due to drag compared to the tires properly inflated. The ABS system reads this difference in speed, and tells the ECM to flash the idiot light on the tires to check your pressures. Pretty nifty, and eliminates a common failure point in TMPS sensors inside a spinning tire.

 

They have similar rubber tire chains at tirerack.com, and they warn about using them on non-snow-covered roads. That's why I didn't buy them. I remember using steel tire chains. That was an interesting experience - very effective on ice and snow, though.

After putting snow tries and wheels on my son's 1025 Fit EX, the TPMS light is always lit - and tire pressure is fine.

 

Yes very effective in snow, ice forget it, nothing works in ice unless you got tank tracks.


TPMS the light came one with the chains, but after verifying pressures and hitting the reset button and it went off.

 

Settled on the Dunlop Winter MAXX 185/55-R16, same size as the stock tires. I know some will say smaller thinner tires are better for winter but since I have the stock rims it was a no brainer for me. Tires look to have some good light snow and slush ratings. The tread pattern looks aggressive for the driving I will be using them for. In addition to the chains I'm set for winter driving. CT is a rough state to drive in let me tell ya!

The other option was The Bridgestone Blizzack WS70's, these have a unidirectional tread while the Dunlops have a omni-directional tread. Directional treads tend to not have the best handling I've found in the past FIT generations I've had so I shy'd away from getting them.

Finally after a few weeks of sorting through some details, I'm picking up the trailer today! Pictures to follow and details of how it handles, I got a mix of highway and backroads to get back home. I'll be able to provide my initial impressions of how the 2015 handles with a trailer.

 

A quick video and pictures. The next project is to install the rear facing dash camera so I can monitor the trailer when driving. I will also be adding reverse LED lights as it does not have them. I was thinking of adding a removable light tower on the nose of the trailer for when I need extra light and during camping/tailgating trips.

Initial thoughts Towing with the 2015 6MT:

1. 5x8 trailer is a perfect size. Trailer weight is 875 pounds. You feel it behind you when accelerating, but the car feels confident getting up to highway speeds. This is where 5th gear will be invaluable. Maneuverability and backing up is a breeze.

2. Dealer added in a breakaway kit for the brakes, which I'm told is the law for CT and most states when a trailer has brakes. The on-board battery charges when connected to the vehicle. The 10" brakes are SUPER responsive, in fact maybe too much. I've been messing around with the brake controller settings (intensity and delay) to get the appropriate settings.

3. The trailer when empty is a bit bouncy, but I believe that is to be expected. The trailer does not sway or unstable at highway speeds ~65-70mph. Its a solid built trailer. With the upgraded heavy duty 3500 LB axle and just under 2k cargo capacity I should have no problems. My limit with the FIT is just under 1000 LB to comply with the GVWR, which to me is more than plenty.

Here are a few pics and quick walk around video of the basic setup. If there is something specific that anyone would like to see on the trailer setup just let me know. I hope to have some driving video soon. I'll be using it in the coming week to help a friend move to a new house. Plus with the weather seemingly starting to get warmer here in CT I got a slew of upgrades and mods I'm planning on unveiling here on the forums!

 

Have you weighed the tongue with the trailer empty?

If I were doing this, with trailer brakes, I would bring it to a camping dealer and have them adjust the brake controller. Improper operation of the trailer brakes can cause major problems. It's not a matter of personal preference. It's the laws of physics. I'm sure you can find a lot about adjusting them with Google.

 

Haven't weighed the tongue yet but i will def do that soon. I got some time this weekend and ill tweak the controller. Plus i can use aome practice backing up and maneuvering with the trailer

 

@SilverEX15

Measured the tongue weight best i could. had a bathroom scale and a step stool that was close to level height. Came in at 101 pounds. Its likely a bit less like say 98 pounds because I have the security ball installed. Thats a few pounds, but a great investment so no hoods try to steal this thing on me.

Seems pretty balanced trailer I think.

 

Got the block heater kit in today. It uses around ~425-450 watts...and that plugs gets hot VERY quickly when I tested it!! In addition to the 80 watt battery warmer call it 500-550 watts to keep the critical engine components at a nominal temp for best cranking ability in sub zero temps. Bout the equivalent of a 1500 watt heater on low.

 

In this video you see how bad I fucked up the rims. Cosmetic, but I've learned my lesson!



Also got my battery bank and inverter setup in a roll away tote. I'll be using this for tailgating and camping. Likely throw in the back of the trailer.

 

That's reasonable. If the tongue weight is too low, the trailer will sway back and forth.

 

Agreed. Justed moved about 500 pounds of furniture for a friend today. Didnt measure the tongue weight but the trailer was MUCH more stable down the road. Not bouncy I mean.

Highway I91 and some back roads, MPG was 28.3. Not bad concidering I think!

I got some pictures I'll post later.

Cheers

 

Furniture was fairly light, I'd say just shy of 500 pounds. My friend does a lot of scrapbooking so a lot of paper, books, paints, glues, etc. Used the couch cushions to pad some shelving, sleeper sofa underneath, chairs, and a few totes. Was aware to load best I could with the majority of the weight on the axle and the totes in the nose of the trailer helped to keep positive tongue weight. The difference in ride was much better. The trailer bounced way less than if it were unloaded.


Ride height in the back dropped about 2 inches or so in the back with the trailer loaded, but still plenty of clearance to not bottom out. Most definitely the air struts will be going in very soon. I still need to get a few extra parts and upgrade the cheap ass plastic air line kit they have with it.


Here are a few pics. between I-91 and a BUNCH of windy back roads (since I cannot drive with the trailer on the Merritt Parkway, CT people will attest to this fact sucks) My fuel mileage was anywhere from 25-29MPG. Keep in mind too that's a mixed driving, and the fact CT had 40mph wind gusts Sunday. You really do feel the wind at those speeds pushing on you.

 

So my latest misadventure involves me towing my trailer in the snow...down a steep hill...when I thought the roads were adequately salted.

Living on a 10% grade hill (not exaggerating this seriously) is not a fun deal in the winter of CT. However, there is a back way where there is a much lesser gradient to traverse, say ~15%. Was moving more furniture and was heading to the friends house yesterday empty to do so. I just took off my snow tires figuring we were done with snow. We were told 2-4 inches, but would end at midnight. 9AM yesterday it was still coming down pretty good. Heavy fluffy snow, the slippery and clumpy kind, good for snowmen building. Weathermen really effed up this prediction.

My heart pounding moment comes when I was creeping down the smaller hill, main road to get into my neighborhood. It wasn't salted enough and I started slipping, an 875 pound trailer is pushing me faster and faster. ABS was kicking in keeping my front wheels rolling, but my trailer brakes were lightly adjusted not locking. I don't know now if I panicked, or simply did the right thing. I cranked up the intensity on my brake controller, locked the trailer wheels holding the manual override, and yanked the hand brake to lock the rear wheels WHILE STAYING OFF THE BRAKE PEDAL to keep my front wheels rolling. The trailer jack knifed slightly, but an 875 pound trailer just became an 875 dead weight. Trailer and rear wheels dug into the snow, came to a dead stop.

Thats my story, if I did not have trailer brakes, forget it I would have went sliding out of control, and some other poor sap in a 4x4 on my big hill wrapped himself around a telephone pole same time I had my ordeal.

Took a figurative knee yesterday thanking the higher power watching over me that I didn't slide into the main road traffic.

 

Wow, good story and use of the smilie icon.

 

Yessir, certainly was counting my blessing the other day. Scary stuff. Getting a ton of experience driving this trailer in recent weeks though! Going to pickup some building material today over at Home Depot!

 

I got bored today and researched the feasibility of this mod. Heated seats are only available on the EX-L, but I was thinking why do you have to get the leather version to be warm in the winter? Its just two insulated heating pads per seat, and it most certainly can be added to the existing seat cushions.


EDIT: to disassemble the seats you will need a hog ring plier set like this:

Now like the heated side mirrors, there is no wiring for it, however, the fuse panels have the taps for it, just need to run the heating grid wires to it.


Part#'s needed


2 x Dorman 628-040 Universal Seat Heater Kit OR
1 x 83407-T5R-A41ZA - LID, SWITCH *NH900L* (NEUTRAL BLACK)
1 x 35600-TF0-003 - SWITCH ASSY., R. HEATED SEAT
1 x 35650-TF0-003 - SWITCH ASSY., L. HEATED SEAT
2 x Add a fuse Kits


Adding the wiring is pretty straight forward. The majority of the work would be removing the seats, disassemble, install the heating pad, reassemble, reinstall, and wire. The center console is the same for the EX and EX-L. The parts I outlined above are for adding the stock switches and switch panel for the heated seats.


Here is a picture below of the panel I'm referring to.







Using the stock heating elements in the seat from Honda seems more expensive than using the universal ones. However, wiring may be more simple as the wire harnesses attached to them should fit perfectly. Here are those part#


Driver Front Seat:


Lower Seat Heater Pad - 81534-T5R-A01
Upper Seat Heater Pad - 81524-T5R-A01


Passenger Front Seat


Lower Seat Heater Pad - 81134-T5R-A01
Upper Seat Heater Pad - 81124-T5R-A01




I don't think I would do this modification myself, but the research is here for those interested. I guess if the need really becomes too much where I need to heat up my ass on the seats I guess I can perform this mod and document on my thread. I did it for the heated side mirrors, winkers, and now the heated seats. The 3 features that US customers with EX 6MT's are not allowed to have from the factory...bastards!

 

Did you figure a cost for the parts? It shouldn't be too hard getting inside the seats and also getting inside the center console.

What are "winkers"?