Florida is like the swamp of Dagobah; the air is wet enough to drink and the inhabitants look 900 years old. The mirrors are always covered in the morning. More to the point though, I am planning to move in the next year and I'm sure I will find myself in a colder climate (because everywhere is a colder climate...). I don't have much experience de-icing things, but I'm sure you can't beat flicking a switch and watching ice slide off the mirror by itself.

Just watch out for probe droids up there. You don't want them to alert the Imperials about your mod skills.

 

My inlaws live near Tampa - was just there a couple weeks ago for Dad-in-law's 80th birthday.

No-see-ums are the #1 reason I will never live in Florida.

es

 

Good one M_x!


Stembridge, I've been down to Saint Augustine FL and while its a great place to visit, I'm not sure I'd be able to deal with the sweltering summers down there. Ask me this question again when I'm 65, old and cold...if I make it that long ha!

 

I've lived in Florida for 20 years and never had a problem with them. Of course other bugs yeah but I don't let them bother me much.

 

If I live to be retirement age I'll likely move down south because the blood will be pretty thin by then. Bugs are a pain regardless, but that's where bug shields on hoods help with that issue!

 

Hey guys, I can use some advice on this:


So I've been shopping around for a decent utility trailer that wont break the bank, but also wont be a piece of shit after a few years riding in the elements. My primary use is to move my PA audio equipment to gigs, haul the occasional small firewood load, and any other odd light duty hauling job. I prefer to have trailer brakes than not based on the FIT's limited horsepower and not wanting to burn out the FITs brakes.


Option 1: I looked into the folding 4x8ft harbor freight trailer for about $300 bucks. Its not the most sturdy from what I've read, but for the cost it seems to fit the bill. Its 253 pounds unloaded, call it 353 pounds by the time you get a plywood deck and some sides on it. The only detractor I see with this is that it has 12 inch wheels, and no trailer brake flanges. One would need to weld them onto the axle, no aftermarket axle is this small, it would most certainly be a custom job. I know some will say brakes are not necessary for a trailer this small, but I prefer having them then not at all and without the option unless I did some custom fab.


Utility Trailer 4'x8' - Heavy Duty Folding Utility Trailer

Option 2: Redtrailers.com has a 5x8ft folding trailer similar to the HF one above. Its actually made at the same factory in China, but the tongue is redesigned to be much stronger, and has an added thick center beam . Sells for $629 for the black powder coat, ships from Quakertown, PA. SJ-8531 - Folding Trailer Kit - RedTrailers.com


For an extra $391 I can have the axle upgraded to handle 2k gross and 5 bolt 13 inch wheels. Lets not forget shipping from PA to CT which is
around ~$170 RT75 - RedTrailers.com Folding Trailer Kit 2,000 lb. Axle Kit for 5' Trailers RT75 - RedTrailers.com


$230 bucks for a loading ramp on the back: SJ3004 - RedTrailers.com Tailgate Ramp for 5' Trailers - Black SJ3004 - RedTrailers.com


***Trailer brake flanges redtrailers said they can add on the upgrade kit no extra charge. Trailer weight is 263 + ~60 for ramp + 100 pounds for lumber = ~423 pounds


Total cost: ~$1520.99 with trailer brakes, ramp, folding ability, plus figuring $100 for plywood decking & sides. Still would need to buy brakes




Option 3: A local guy in CT can get me a Belmont 5x8 trailer, angle iron construction, polyurethane coated, wood floor deck, removable ramp, 2 inch ball, 650 pound trailer weight, with trailer brakes installed (10 inchers) from the factory. 15 inch wheels. Told me the cost would be about $1325 plus tax.




What do you guys think? I can certainly hook up a brake controller system in the FIT easily. Again not looking to haul a super heavy load, but I want a decent trailer that will last me without paying through the nose


Buy once, Cry once?

 

Everything works off the defrost switch! Pain in the arse snaking the red wire tieing the two relays together but thankful to say no cutting into anything that alters the stock configuration permanently!

Over all this project cost me ~$100 dollars and about 7 hours work. If I were to do this again on my next FIT I could probably shave it down to 4-5 hours or less, now that I know what to expect and do.

 

Took me about 45 minutes to do. Very simple installation.



Word to the wise:

1. When you lower the muffler from its hanger, take that rubber hanger off the muffler itself and reinstall on the car BEFORE you install the hitch. Its very tight up there! The right side hanger closest to the wheel you can leave on the muffler itself. WD-40 works wonders to loosen the hangers from the car.

2. You will need to temporarily bend back the corner of the muffler heat shield to install the hitch behind it, you will need to bend it back and make sure there is enough clearance so it does not rattle against anything. There is plenty of clearance for this but if done improperly the heat shield will rattle against the hitch. Some have reported this, its an easy fix if done right.


That's it for now. Tomorrow I'm installing the trailer wiring for the lights with the etrailer universal kit I got. The rest of the parts for the brake controller and 7 pole adapter should be here Monday or Tuesday.

I will likely order local a Belmont 5x8 utility trailer after the new year with 10" trailer brakes, removable ramp, and welded side kits, 2 inch ball hitch. I've already told myself it will be an early birthday gift for me! I intend on lighting the entire thing up with LEDs and creating a plywood encloser for when I need it. Good investment I think.

 

Got all my parts to install trailer lights and electric trailer brake controller. Weather has been crappy in CT so haven't installed it yet. Judging by the install instructions it doesnt look to difficult.

2015 Honda Fit EX Towing Hitch & Wiring Harness 01:

 

Trailer light unit was an hour to install. Had to carefully remove the electrical tape and loom from the stock wire harness. The wires are 22 gauge, pretty small. Then again brake and taillights are LED. The turn signal and reverse lights are incandescent.

Since I'm such a nice guy and believe in the forums helping people. Below please find the wire color codes for the Fit harness and Light unit to match.

Function----------Light Unit----------Honda Fit EX

Taillight------------Brown-----------------Grey
Brake Light----------Red---------------Light Green
Left Turn-----------Yellow----------------Yellow
Right Turn----------Green-----------------Green
Reverse------------N/A-----------------Brown

I still need to wire in the trailer brake controller and the 7 pole adapter. Ran into some yet more weather. I do not have a garage BTW so its cumbersome. To run the hot lead for the connector to the battery and the brake controller send will require removing the plastic protective undercarriage cover to properly mount out of the way of exhaust and suspension components. To be continued. Video and more pictures to follow.

 

An update to the project. It seems the kit from etrailer did not have enough 10AWG wire to go from the 7 way connector at the hitch to reach the battery in the front. Had to go to home depot to pickup another 10 ft of white/black to reach. The kit I used C51500 came with 10' of black/white wire and 20' of blue wire. The blue wire I used for the ground, and the black/white wire was used for the battery hot (black) and brake controller send (white) Minor issue but kinda annoying. I could have used the left over blue wire but that would have made things confusing if I ever had to diagnose a problem later. Snaking the wire under the car was a bit involved, removed a few clips from the under plastic panel covering the undercarriage and put the wire top of that panel so its out of the way. I had to move the wire around the rear drivers side suspension components and front driver side tie-rod/axle area. Zip tied the wire out of the way. Take your time on this part, be smart how you route this wire especially.

Ran out of daylight again, but snaking the brake controller feed through the firewall shouldn't be too bad. I got my CB mounting place picked out too.

I have not back probed the brake pedal connector on which wire is the cold (switched) side. Thankfully its fairly easy to get to and splicing into it shouldn't be an issue. To be continued...with more pictures and video

 

Completed all the wiring this weekend.


***The LIGHT GREEN wire on the brake pedal switch is what connects to the red wire of the brake controller harness.


I've fused the brake controller at 20A instead of the called for 30A. I figure I will not be doing super heavy towing it will not be needed. This may change down the road with a simple fuse swap. I Velcro attached to the dash instead of drilling because call me OCD, but I do not want to drill into the dash.


The 7 way connector is a combination 4,5 flat connector, 6 or 7 way round connector. Perfect flexibility! The only thing I do not like from Etrailer is the hardware for the mounting bracket on the 7 way connector, they are not galvanized or stainless steel. Two weeks being on the car and already they are rusting. I 'll spray paint them so they do not rust but I may just swap out the hardware for better quality ones.









@ Anna from Etrailer.com - Take notes of what I wrote on this thread! Hope this helps with your CS team!

 

Very nice install and documentation!

es

 

Thanks for all this. Do you have a picture of that Curt hitch installed? I'm wondering how much shows below the bumper.

 

Originally i was going to buy a Belmont trailer 5x8, but decided to get a Sure Trac 5x8 trailer. It was about the same cost as the Belmont, but it came with LED lights, and looks better constructed. it will be about a month or so before I see it as its being customized to my specs.

2 x 6 Pressure Treated Decking
14" High Solid Sides with 4" Tie-Down Rail
Gusseted Corners
Wiring Enclosed in Tubular Steel
Powder Coat Finish
Self-Retained Gate Pins
Fold Flat/Spring Assist Gate
Safety Chain Holders
Reinforced Set Back Jack
Board Retainers Front and Rear
Rubber Mounted LED Sealed Lights
EverLink™ - High Performance Wiring Harness
ST205/75 D15 Ply Tires


Upgrades:

5Ft Drive Ramp
4 Corner Cargo Eye Hooks
10" Electric Brakes w/7 way connector including LED reverse lights
Upgraded EZLube 3500 Axle instead of 2k, has 5 bolt lug pattern



Total trailer weight will be about 960 pounds. It was a bit heavier than the 680 pound Belmont, however I'm looking at it as an investment. The trailer can haul 2990 GVWR, though the FIT max is 2k. My sound system is about 700 pounds of gear to thump with 150-200 people at a club. A few thin pieces of plywood and 2x4s means I can enclose the trailer to deter would be thieves from simply snatching equipment out the back.


I drove around with a similar sized trailer today with the FIT so I can have an idea how it will handle. It had no problem pulling it. Yes you feel you got more weight behind you obviously and slower acceleration is expected. No unsteadyness around the city. Highway is good too, but i find having to stay in 5th gear longer until I hit a level surface.

When my customized trailer comes in I'll post videos. I had a thought of adding a dash cam to the rear window to keep an eye on the trailer during driving, and for assholes on the road too. i already have the power back there. I'm thinking why not?!

The final video of the brake controller wiring is on its way. Should have that later today.

 

That sounds good. I think my 1969 Skidoo trailer is 6 x 8, but the deck is just plywood, and I've replaced it three times. It has square tubing as a frame, and it releases at the front to tilt down to the ground - very convenient. I've rewired it several times (external, exposed wires), and I added an LED brake and signal light set a couple of years ago. I also bought new wheels and tires. The hitch connector on the front of the trailer is bolted on, so I can replace that as it goes bad. I'll have to weigh the trailer one of these days. It's going on 46 years old. I'm sure the Skidoo we got with it is long gone.

 

 

Here is a pic of the 5x10 I tried out the other day. Unloaded it weighs just shy of 1200 pounds. I can tell you that the FIT hauled it no problem. Granted the car is acceleration challenged, but there was no issue going on some rolling hills terrain on side roads, and highway speeds. Stopping was not too bad either, but you do feel the trailer pushing you. This 5x10 had no electric brakes. I didn't need a 10ft bed for my needs and thus settled for an 8ft bed.


The 5x8 I described above is around 960 pounds and will have trailer brakes. I should have no problem stopping. I don't see myself hitting 6th gear unless im on flat terrain or downhill, but I'm glad to have it. 5th gear is going to be very valuable to me for towing purposes.


The place I bought the trailer from told me it will not be custom built and ready for me till around February due to holidays and the mods I wanted.


For the ball/hitch setup I went with a 5-3/8th's rise and 2 inch ball. The length of the hitch is about 9-3/4 inches instead of a 6inch and change. I had to order this piece. The trail hitch I used for this trailer was around 4-1/2 inch rise and 2inch ball. That made this 5x10 trailer ALMOST level. that's why I went a bit higher to level the trailer and with a load it should even out.



Hope this helps others. The FIT is more than capable of towing, but just need to be smart that you don't have a ton of HP. I don't see the need for an intercooler for the tranny at this time, but I think my next investment in a smart gauge to monitor coolant and tranny oil temp will help determine the need for that mod. If I do install one the only area I can put it is in front of the AC condenser, which will sacrifice some efficiency of that system. I see that as not much of an issue, but ask me again when the heat is blazing over 100F and 90% humidity.

Once I get the trailer, the plan is to have another dash cam in the rear window to monitor it since well this forum is making me spend more money on my FIT to make it look cooler!

 

Thanks for the info. I'm sure the Fit will do fine towing a small trailer like that, as long as you don't pull two tons up and down mountains.

 

Agreed. While I have a decent amount of steep hills around CT, I certainly don't have miles of mountainous terrain like out west. Local and short trips if properly loaded, prepared, and smart towing, the FIT will be just fine.