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I drove my roommates stick shift truck pretty extensively, but this is the first one I've owned and driven daily. I don't want to go back! I have never paid for a clutch job though so... we'll see I feel afterwards.
Either way, I plan on driving this Fit til death do us part. If I love it as much as I do today when the clutch finally goes, I'll happily cross that bridge when I come to it.
If driven properly your clutch should last the life of the car
If driven properly your clutch should last the life of the car
I HIGHLY doubt that.
There are too many variables that can affect clutch wear to give an honest ballpark on its service life... ESPECIALLY on vehicles can potentially 150k or more miles in its lifetime. Please don't spread false information.
There are too many variables that can affect clutch wear to give an honest ballpark on its service life... ESPECIALLY on vehicles can potentially 150k or more miles in its lifetime. Please don't spread false information.
I had 149k on my 08 with the original clutch. Still working fine when it was traded. Don't beat the car and it will last.
Nice... but still potentially misleading since key variables aren't being mentioned. In addition to that, cars these days can go WELL beyond 150k to 200k mile range... if properly maintained.
In our Fits, there is a tensioning mechanism to help take up the slack created as our clutch wears. What may have been fine to you may have been indeed a clutch in good condition or one nearing the end of its service. (Not a personal attack or prod by the way, just being realistic)
Anyway, back to variables... Things like driving situations (constant freeway, stop-n-go city, mountainous/hill country routes, etc.), clutch application (smooth/gentle, aggressive/clutch dump, little slippage, grab-n-off, etc), and shift frequency.
I've seen a clutch worn down to its rivets on a NSX-T with 77k on the car (aggressive drivier, frequent highway pulls) and also seen a clutch have a piece of its friction material shatter off in the pressure plate of an Integra Type R at 168k (relaxed driver, occasionalet autocross).
Just read through your whole build thread. Awesome work. What's next on the list? haha
HAHA thank you for reading through. Im not sure whats next, but I certainly am nearing the end of my mods, unless someone shows me something that I want to mod. thats the trouble with this forum, made me spend more money than my two previous Fits combined. Im not complaining, but damn you fit freaks come up with good practical ideas
Slimstrike on here passed the info along. I tried it and it works for me having a 6MT. Seems to be already discovered on the Civic and HR-V forums.
***Unfortunately, it seems that people with the NAVI units will have some issues, such as losing the auto A/C and other things. While that sucks, makes me even more happy I drive manual!
1. Start your Car first
2. Press and hold the Eject, Power, & Home button to bring up the diagnostic screen
3. Press on the Detail Information and settings selection on the screen, its the bottom one
4. Press and hold the Menu button, a new screen will appear.
5. Press the Vehicle Model Information on the screen
6. Press the DD VSP Error button on the screen, in the lower right
7. On the next screen press where it says "on" and then press where it says "off" to disable that error
8. Press Return in the upper right hand corner until you get back to the main menu out of the diagnostic mode.
****Others have said to hit the SNAPSHOT button in order to save the settings when you restart your car. This doesn't seem to save it permanently. If it does people have reported it only saves it for a few cycles then returns to turning the error message on again. To me thats not terrible. You can learn to jump through the screens pretty quickly. I'm more happy that it can be done at all without having to do some serious moding. Im sure ducktapemaster will figure out a way to make it permanent down the road!
9. Disable your bluetooth pairing with the HU as audio will go through bluetooth when you have HDMI selected. Instead you want to disable it and have audio stream through the HDMI port.
THATS IT! The HU will now ignore signals from the CANBUS that would normally disable features with a safety notice:
1. HDMI input now mirrors without issue while driving and out of park
2. Text messages can be read on screen as well as announced
3. Cannot confirm Speed volume control works as normal, but I dont give a shit about that feature.
4. Full settings menu is available for editing while in motion
5. Not positive, but there may be other things available that were blocked before while in motion.
Last edited by Bassguitarist1985; 11-16-2015 at 02:25 PM.
It drops the HDMI signal often, goes to static and loses sound. Its not a wire connection I confirmed. I beleive its either due to widgets in the background causing problems keeping up with the sync, or more likely a poorly shielded MHL cable that is too long ( 2 meters ) to begin with. I checked the amperage draw and its 275mA. The Note 4 goes into slow charging mode. Ita a $10 waste, but ill try some ferrite beads to test my EMI hypothesis.
Gonna try another MHL adapter with shorter cables, see if stability is better. Im open to suggestions.
I did buy a chromecast dongle today, but im returning it. It mirrors via wifi, but it needs a network to connect to, it wont work with wifi direct to the phone. Not useful when in a car. You can set your phone to a mobile hot spot, but mirror capabilities are transmitted off your data plan. Please correct me if im wrong on this.
Ill try to make a video soon, but kinda hard when your phone IS your camera.
Last edited by Bassguitarist1985; 11-17-2015 at 11:54 AM.
And can confirm it works on my CVT with an existing HDMI to HDMI cable with my Verizon Samsung S4. I tested it for maybe 15 minutes including sound with youtube and it looked ok (with some aspect distortion) and sounded good. I also ran it powered from the USB port at the same time.
The car was in the garage in 'start' mode, and I moved the shift lever from (P)ark and through the gears with no loss of display, but did not actually start the car. I'll try that later this morning when I can get the garage door open for exhaust escape.
Couple of downsides I noticed:
The display is distorted in landscape because the aspect ratio is a bit different between the phone and the Fit display.
I think the display on the phone remains on during mirroring which could increase battery discharge.... need to confirm later this morning
My HDMI cable is rather bulky, ideally a much slimmer one would still work but the dual cable setup increases cabin clutter a bit
You are tempted to use the Fit display to control the phone but the touches don't work, instead you still need to find a place to mount the phone horizontally so you can manage the navigation with your fingers
I'm not sure if that last point just doesn't leave me back to my original installation of having the phone in the CD mount which was pretty handy on a recent multi-day roadtrip.
Speaking of power cables, this 3 foot left angle micro USB charging cable works well when mounted in the CD slot:
1. I do notice some aspect distortion with using google maps, but its not too bad.
The screen mirror with our high definition phones are not optimized for the 7" display in our vehicles.
2. Another good point is most if not all MHL adapters are unable to provide enough charge current to keep the phone from losing battery life while connected.
I need to hunt for a wireless method of mirroring the phone screen. The Note 4 has this capability, but I need some sort of device with HDMI output that the Note 4 can pair with to share its screen. I thought I had that device in Chromecast, but its way too cumbersome for the application I have. Mirrorcast unfortunately has been obsoleted on Android 5, so that option is out it seems.
Its funny. We finally figure out a viable way to unlock the HU to mirror our phones only to be struggling for a reliable method to mirror without glitches.
...Anyway, this is a good find and I need to do more testing to see if it personally is an improvement over the CD mount option.
I did some functional testing:
The Samsung S4 display must stay on for mirroring to continue
The horizontal output is letter boxed below the Honda time, so the screen is actually stretched horizontally (which is sort of odd since Honda frequently trumpeted watching movies in relax mode on the display...)
The USB power port was not required, although with the display on, it won't last long
With the engine running, the HDMI display continued while in (D)rive.
The Samsung S4 display must stay on for mirroring to continue
The horizontal output is letter boxed below the Honda time, so the screen is actually stretched horizontally (which is sort of odd since Honda frequently trumpeted watching movies in relax mode on the display...)
The USB power port was not required, although with the display on, it won't last long
With the engine running, the HDMI display continued while in (D)rive.
Very good news. Pulled the trigger on this MHL adapter. Hopefully it will be more stable than my current one. I believe the one I have is MHL 1.0, and the one below is MHL 2.0 compatible for the Note 4. Time will tell. If it doesn't work it's being returned back! The other issue is MHL adapters currently do not support enough current to charge the battery and power the adapter simultaneously. MHL 2.0 take 900mA to run, and most Samsung Galaxy chargers are 1.5-2A. Full 1080P / 60FPS takes a lot of amperage to run that processor. I can live with a little battery drain. Long as it lasts me enough when running google maps!
That cable looks a little tidier than my dongle + HDMI cable, etc.
I'm still wondering if this ends up being worthwhile since the CD mount phone holder + power cable works pretty well. I think I got more excited about the prospect of having this display work than thinking it through for actual usage. I guess I can use the dongle connecting to the TV.
I also wonder if the $(Honda link app) gets around the HDMI image stretch and 'relax mode watch a movie', etc?
The other thing I noticed is that parked with the head unit on, after a while I hear a HU fan come on which can't be good for battery drain either. 2 hour movie over but don't forget to call triple A during the credits.
That cable looks a little tidier than my dongle + HDMI cable, etc.
I'm still wondering if this ends up being worthwhile since the CD mount phone holder + power cable works pretty well. I think I got more excited about the prospect of having this display work than thinking it through for actual usage. I guess I can use the dongle connecting to the TV.
I also wonder if the $(Honda link app) gets around the HDMI image stretch and 'relax mode watch a movie', etc?
The other thing I noticed is that parked with the head unit on, after a while I hear a HU fan come on which can't be good for battery drain either. 2 hour movie over but don't forget to call triple A during the credits.
Im not sure on the stretch aspect ratio issue. Im not giving up on the Chromecast dongle just yet. I need to research more on how to make it work wirelessly with my phone should this new cable fail. I can return either or both if need be.
The fan is pretty small, only for temp cooling. I forget the fuse size for the HU, I think its 20A. Yes the Fits small battery does not have very good reserve time. I've often thought of running dual batteries with a cutoff relay in order to increase the reserve time. Its very much possible, just not had the need for it. If I was camping with the car I'd be using a separate battery bank anyway.
Okay so I am giving up on the Chromecast Dongle 2.0. too much bullshit to get around to mirror the screen via WI-FI. I'm sure there is another method I'm simply not aware of to make it work the way I wan.
What I KNOW works is this cable below with my Verizon Samsung Note 4. Got it yesterday, tested, and it works great! no drop outs. Only detractor (like most if not all MHL cables) is that it will not charge the phone enough. It does charge, but is limited in the charge current of 500mA instead of the 1-2A from the OEM charger. Best advice when using it is to turn the screen brightness down all the way to minimize battery drain.
Now in order to listen to the HDMI audio output when in HDMI mirror mode....AND still have your bluetooth phone capabilities you must do the following. This is specifically for Android 5.
***The catch is that disabling the media for Homelink will not allow bluetooth streaming of music or apps like Pandora or AHA to work with the HU's built in app screens for them to be controlled. However, music will still be streamed via HDMI, and controlled from your phone. I know not the best scenario, but its a viable work around.
I've gotton the screen jumping to disable the error menu to prevent locking out HDMI mirroring down to about 20 seconds. Sure its annoying to do it every time but its all I got for now. The OEM HU that was once bricked to shit, is now less bricked, but still bricked.
This thing is NOT easy to get to. I sized up the job today though didn't tackle it yet because since I wont be draining the cooling system, I will need an extra gallon of coolant on hand to replace what inevitably leaks out.
For those wanting this add on, I will impart these tips:
1. Have the proper OEM coolant on hand to replace what leaks out, say a gallon.
2. Where junky cloths. It will be MESSY!
3. Install it ON A COLD ENGINE. The damn thing is right next to the exhaust manifold flange!
4. Refer to tip #3 and #4 should you have not have read my warnings!
The battery warmer is fairly easy. Remove the terminals, remove the lock down bar hold the battery, wrap it neatly & reinstall in reverse order.
The Battery maintainer was the easiest. Some 3M double sides tape, and zip-ties above where the fuse panel is, connect to the battery, wrap wires neatly, done.
Thanks! Another job I won't be tackling.
(Block heater)
Well I still want it, but I'm gonna see how much my Honda contact can have a tech do a cash deal to install the plug only on the next oil change. I'll do all the various snaking of the wires etc. Can't imagine labor will be that terrible for just the plug install. The biggest cost is labor snaking the wires and removing the bumper. No way do you need to remove the bumper. Its a well worthy upgrade here in CT. Canada neighbors its a must!! If the car is on a lift rather than ramps it will be easier to get to.
I have thought of a magnetic block heater though, and I think that would be much easier without any major modification and hassle to the car.
For the HDMI saftey override to mirror while moving. I have done this quick video! Cheers!
11-13-2015, 03:41 PM
