Here's My '15 EX
#101
It is the mid-sized one. I think 2.5" (I think). I cut it so it tapers on the sides 14" to the full amount to the middle.
#102
Mt front bumper started to sag and it developed a gap between the fender and bumper. Here's how I fixed it:
There's piece of adhesive foam stuck inside the bumper cover and it rests on the bumper itself. If it degrades or falls out, the bumper will sag. You will have to remove the bumper cover:
I added an additional piece to make it thicker and add more support:
Here's where it will contact the bumper:
Use double sided tape or glue and reattach it inside the bumper cover. You can see some sticky residue where it was originally:
Reinstall bumper cover, taking care not to knock out or shift the location of the foam during installation. Reach in and hold the foam while placing bumper cover in position.
All done. Nice and tight.
There's piece of adhesive foam stuck inside the bumper cover and it rests on the bumper itself. If it degrades or falls out, the bumper will sag. You will have to remove the bumper cover:
I added an additional piece to make it thicker and add more support:
Here's where it will contact the bumper:
Use double sided tape or glue and reattach it inside the bumper cover. You can see some sticky residue where it was originally:
Reinstall bumper cover, taking care not to knock out or shift the location of the foam during installation. Reach in and hold the foam while placing bumper cover in position.
All done. Nice and tight.
#106
Thanks buddy. I just can't stop messing with this thing!
#111
Yup looks really good. How was the fit of the lip? Did it come with mounting screws or just 3m tape? I was thinking of just doing this lip too and it looks good with just the lip without the full kit. Did the painters use the flex additive for bumpers when painting?
#112
It didn't include anything. Tape and screws are seperate.
It fits surprisingly well. Fitment exceeded my expectations. I ran an extra screw in the side into the plastic wheel well to pull the sides tighter.
Flex agent on PP plastic is a must-have. I'm not doing the rest. I don't like the look of the skirts or the rear piece.
It fits surprisingly well. Fitment exceeded my expectations. I ran an extra screw in the side into the plastic wheel well to pull the sides tighter.
Flex agent on PP plastic is a must-have. I'm not doing the rest. I don't like the look of the skirts or the rear piece.
#118
My RE71's are getting some heavy wear on the outer edge. I'm trying to correct it. Almost there:
Last edited by jhn; 04-26-2016 at 11:37 AM.
#119
Ok so I replaced the 38mm stock wheel studs with 73mm ARP studs. Honda sort of screwed us on the front stud replacement, so take care of your studs, use a torque wrench everytime, and hand start the lugs ( no power tools). If you strip or break a stud, you must understand you will need to remove the knuckle, press out the hub, replace the bearing because it will likely break, change the studs (finally, then put it back together. There's just no room behind the hub to get a new stud back into the hole.
I went with long studs and open ended long lug nuts. My idea here it when its removal time, I can spray the threads with pb blaster or liquid wrench or something to help loosen any seized threads. That's why I'm here. I had a seized lug that damaged the threads when I finally got it off. I really don't know what happened so if you know why this happened, chime in. I do not want to go through this again. Honda Fit + front stud replacement = pain.
While I have it this far apart, I made other changes. I found Hardrace makes replacement bushings, so I pulled the control arms and pressed out the old, in the new.
I'm increasing negative camber and I pulled the struts apart and added stiffer bump stops to boost the spring rate. I'm adding a Megan brace to strengthen the loads of stiffer bushings as well.
Much stiffer bushings compared to stock
I went with long studs and open ended long lug nuts. My idea here it when its removal time, I can spray the threads with pb blaster or liquid wrench or something to help loosen any seized threads. That's why I'm here. I had a seized lug that damaged the threads when I finally got it off. I really don't know what happened so if you know why this happened, chime in. I do not want to go through this again. Honda Fit + front stud replacement = pain.
While I have it this far apart, I made other changes. I found Hardrace makes replacement bushings, so I pulled the control arms and pressed out the old, in the new.
I'm increasing negative camber and I pulled the struts apart and added stiffer bump stops to boost the spring rate. I'm adding a Megan brace to strengthen the loads of stiffer bushings as well.
Much stiffer bushings compared to stock