I added some panel style numbers and made some letters that are scca compliant.

 

I dropped the torsion beam over the weekend and filled the pivot bushings with urethane. I am curious about the longevity of this mod so I welcome any feedback you may have.

This is pretty easy to do. On a scale of 1-10 difficulty, I'd rate it a 4. I removed the two 19mm pivot bolts and carefully lowered the beam with a jack right in the center. Don't let it drop or you could damage brake lines or abs wires.

Interesting thing: the bushings are already solid. No gaps like other compliance bushings. I just filled them flush and let the sit to cure for 48 hours. I hope it helps loosen the handling and reduce the squirminess:

 

Do you still able to keep the dust cap or the dust cover when you install the led bulb

 

looking good!

 

Yeah, but I cut a 8mm "+" with an exacto knife on the face of it for the driver wire to go through. Minor issue.

Headlights/fog lights still going strong.

I did have my LED license plate bulbs lose some diodes and start flickering. I have since replaced them with Sylvania 194 cool white LEDs.

 

Thank you!

 

Which led did you get?

 

superbrightled.com mentioned upthread

 

is it just me or are those bushings already cracking ?
I'm a big fan of the urethane mounts. super cheap and easy. nice work !

 

Yes, I noticed that too. It had been in the back of my mind for a while. I questioned the affect lowering would have on them. I'm not sure if it is the result of lowering or just what they do...


Filling them with urethane had a very positive result. I plan to do the front after I research it more. I do not believe there are any polyurethane bushings available in the US for this car, but I think filling them is a better way to go anyway. I'm not sure about longevity just yet but I know others who have done this with positive results.


Engine torque mounts will be filled in the very near future as well.

 

Nice build/mod thread...I'm new to the forum and this is the first FIT I've owned. I just purchased the bisimoto exhaust for my 2015 and I'm running the receiver hitch...How did you bend your bracket? heat and some tools or tools alone?

 

I just used a vise grip. Clamped it on and bent it. I figured I would try that first and if it didn't work I could always take it to a muffler shop and put a new support rod on it.

If I were to do it again I think I would try twisting it 180 degrees so it faces the rear like the OE muffler. It probably wouldn't hurt to add the second support rod and insulator like OE as well. It swings a bit with one and sometimes rattles on the heat shield during really hard right turns.

 

thanks! i might get that second rod...i really didnt want an exhaust that showed and the bisimoto was perfect for that. thanks again

 

Flexy All-Fit lip is holding up well. It's pretty low and it scrapes some abrupt entrances. I think if it were a harder material it would be scratched and broken by now:

 

Ive been bored with the bad weather so I swapped out my steering wheel emblem and now all the emblems are matchy - matchy throughout the car. Changing the steering wheel emblem was a major pain. I had to disconnect the battery and break the OE emblem out of the airbag cover. I do not recommend doing this. Just stick the new one on over OE:



I like it though:



All black JDM style now:


I rolled my rear fenders for better clearance:



Just waiting for better weather now:

 

I got a track inspection for the upcoming season and they told me I need a front tow hook and I should change my brake fluid. Done and done.

 

jhn- car looks track ready.

 

A year or two on the brake fluid right?

How's that front lip holding up? I may do the same but didn't want it scraping on my driveway.

 

It got pretty hot when I was @VIR last fall. I experienced brake fade in the last lap. I suspect I boiled the fluid. I probably should have changed it then.

The inspectors noticed it was a bit dark and I told them what I experienced and they said I should change it. I knew this but I was being lazy.

I think at the very least I will use a "turkey baster" and suck out the old fluid from the cylinder and I will add fresh fluid after every session. I'll do a full flush 6-12 months.

Lip is good. I scrape it from time to time and it doesn't show any signs of damage. A harder composite lip would have been damaged by now.

 

Damn that looks good. Love the cohesive black emblems. Did you get the traditional, mid, or fat lip?