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Well I installed the 4 speakers and the sound is better, but still lacks punch. It's a thin sound imo. I'm now considering an amp. I really want to keep things as simple as possible, so I'm avoiding a sub for now. The prospect of cutting and tying in to the speaker wires behind the radio makes me nervous. Crutchfield is suggesting the amp and wiring kit I've linked to below. I wonder about replacing the dash tweeters, but I would have to fashion a bracket, and that's outside of my comfort zone. I'm curious to hear feedback from others here. Again, I feel that the speaker upgrade offers some benefit, and I'm not looking for an audiophile setup here.
Feedback appreciated.
at this point, maybe its time to consider a pro install or help from a friend of some sorts. I have a feeling you'll be happy with both an amp, and that sub. That's where I ended up.
I started off great, under $75 for R165X3 and R1675X2. It didnt do it for me, I was in your boat (sounds good, but sounds thin/needs more). I eventually added the amp and sub, and it was a game changer.
at this point, maybe its time to consider a pro install or help from a friend of some sorts. I have a feeling you'll be happy with both an amp, and that sub. That's where I ended up.
I started off great, under $75 for R165X3 and R1675X2. It didnt do it for me, I was in your boat (sounds good, but sounds thin/needs more). I eventually added the amp and sub, and it was a game changer.
where I'm at now:
I appreciate that. My local pro installer is very competent, and very pricey. I hate giving them my money, and they are sure to add on profit on the hardware, wiring and adaptors as needed, labor, etc. Then there's scheduling an appointment. Still I may just have to cave and have the tweeters replaced as well. The door speakers were super easy to replace though. I still feel as if I can install an amp, if I can find a wiring harness that will permit me to tie into the radio's harness.
You can add an aftermarket radio and keep lanewatch, rear camera and steering wheel controls. I ordered the kit from crutchfield and it made one hell of a difference.
You can add an aftermarket radio and keep lanewatch, rear camera and steering wheel controls. I ordered the kit from crutchfield and it made one hell of a difference.
can you share the details of the radio and all needed parts to retain lanewatch, rear camera, steering wheel controls?
Well I installed the 4 speakers and the sound is better, but still lacks punch. It's a thin sound imo. I'm now considering an amp. I really want to keep things as simple as possible, so I'm avoiding a sub for now.
Adding an amp to power your door speakers and/or replacing your factory head unit will be significantly more complex than adding a powered subwoofer, and in my experience those mods will not improve the overall sound to the degree a powered subwoofer will.
I am not dismissing the value of replacing a factory head unit with a high quality aftermarket unit or adding an external amp; both of those are solid upgrades. Both will definitely make will system sound better and louder. However, in my experience, the lack of punch and the thinness you describe will be solved much more completely, simply, and inexpensively thru the install of a powered sub.
Adding an amp to power your door speakers and/or replacing your factory head unit will be significantly more complex than adding a powered subwoofer, and in my experience those mods will not improve the overall sound to the degree a powered subwoofer will.
I am not dismissing the value of replacing a factory head unit with a high quality aftermarket unit or adding an external amp; both of those are solid upgrades. Both will definitely make will system sound better and louder. However, in my experience, the lack of punch and the thinness you describe will be solved much more completely, simply, and inexpensively thru the install of a powered sub.
can you offer suggestions on a powered sub, including where to put it and how to wire it?
can you offer suggestions on a powered sub, including where to put it and how to wire it?
The Kenwood in my quote below would be an easy choice. It's inexpensive (~$130 including wiring needed to install), small (easy to find a location to install), and it sounds way bigger than it is and IMO will greatly exceed your expectations. I have outlined how to wire it below.
. This sub is capable of delivering obscene bass levels. For bragging rights you could go with the 12 inch version of the Rockford Fosgate for only ~$20 more. EvilChargerFan has one in his car... The Rockford subs are of course bigger than the Kenwood and would have to be "mounted" in the hatch. Mine is simply strapped in place using the outboard rear seatbelt anchors; it is very secure. If I need to fold down the seats to haul large items I can simply unstrap and unplug the sub...
Wiring a Rockford sub would be similar to the Kenwood and could be done with one less wire (the amp turn on lead is not needed) to connect. And again, let me reiterate that any of these powered subs can be installed WITHOUT the need to remove or get behind the factory radio. And the Kenwood and Rockfords all come with wired remote controls that would allow you the fine tune the bass from the driver seat.
Originally Posted by UnFitRick
I am sorry to hear you are not in love with your GK. I haven't even had mine for two months yet, but I really really like it. I have been thinking about your dissatisfaction with the car's audio system and not wanting to commit.
I have what I believe would be a great solution. For ~$130 you could install a Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Subwoofer under a seat or in the hatch area. It is definitely compact at only 11x7.5x2.75 inches, but it is a really nice little sub.
BG1985 has two in his Fit (he is clearly an overachiever). I have one under the front seat of my '94 Silverado pickup truck and it sounds fantastic; IMO this sub, on its own, would make a huge improvement in the overall sound quality of the Fit's factory audio system.
It also comes with ALL the wiring you would need to install the unit, so no additional wiring harness to buy. Installation would be very easy, and if you used wire taps like the ones in the below pic (<$10), no cutting of factory wiring would be required, and there is no need to remove or get behind the factory radio. Further, if you did eventually get rid of the car you could remove the sub and put it in another vehicle (unlike replacing all the door speakers).
I used these sweet posi-taps...
These inexpensive ones would work fine too, you'll only need 5...
As far as where to get the sub, personally I recommend Amazon ($131) for this particular item. I love Crutchfield and have been ordering from them since before many on this forum were born, but for some reason this sub is waaay overpriced there ($250!!!).
Originally Posted by UnFitRick
I will provide you as much help as you need. Based on the KSC-SW11 manual and my experience with my car, you will have seven wires to connect.
The only wire I am not sure about is the sub's blue turn on lead, because I didn't need one for my particular sub. A little probing with a multimeter and I'm sure I can find one in the B-pillar to keep the wiring super easy. Or if anyone has a wiring diagram for the back doors that would be helpful too.
Wiring a Rockford sub would be similar to the Kenwood and could be done with one less wire (the amp turn on lead is not needed) to connect. And again, let me reiterate that any of these powered subs can be installed WITHOUT the need to remove or get behind the factory radio. And the Kenwood and Rockfords all come with wired remote controls that would allow you the fine tune the bass from the driver seat.
While I was out in the driveway today I took a couple of pics to compare the remotes for the Kenwood and Rockford Fosgate subs.
Here is the Rockford remote in my Fit. Pretty simple, one knob; acts more or less like a volume knob for the sub. Other adjustments (including the one on the remote) are on the sub itself.
And here is the Kenwood remote from my truck. IIRC all adjustments are on the remote (as in no adjustments on the sub itself)
Ok guys, I'm thinking the Kenwood Sub and also an amp. Can someone recommend an amp for me please. I'm trying to find someone to do the install for me now. Posted on the neighborhood site "Next Door". I'll call the local audio installer, but as I said earlier, they are generally pricey.
Crutchfield has offered this suggestion, and I believe I posted that at the start of this thread. Still I'm liking the Kenwood sub available on Amazon, and am wondering if I can also get the amp on Amazon. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC1...on-XC1410.html
Match the amp to the speakers you chose. Rule of thumb is to find an amp that has 65-85% of the "Program power" of your speaker. So your RMS (average) wattage per channel of the amp needs to be in this program power range. This gives you headroom to spare, and strikes a balance so you do not overpower the speakers causing damage. Contrary to popular beleif, you cannot cause speaker damage by "underpowering" a speaker. However, if you start clipping/overdriving your amp, it can easily do 2-3 times its nameplate wattage, but its "trash power" in the form of square waves (BAD!!) which spells death to speakers.
That's an audiophile and sound engineer's opinion on the matter. Too often systems are thrown together without concideration of the specs and things dont operate correctly, and fail prematurely.
Ok guys, I'm thinking the Kenwood Sub and also an amp. Can someone recommend an amp for me please. I'm trying to find someone to do the install for me now. Posted on the neighborhood site "Next Door". I'll call the local audio installer, but as I said earlier, they are generally pricey.
Crutchfield has offered this suggestion, and I believe I posted that at the start of this thread. Still I'm liking the Kenwood sub available on Amazon, and am wondering if I can also get the amp on Amazon. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC1...on-XC1410.html
IMO, that Clarion would probably be a good choice. One reason Crutchfield may have recommended it (in addition to its power rating) is because of its size, allowing installation somewhere up under the dash. There will be a bunch of wires (11?) coming to and from that amp, most originating from behind the factory radio.
I still believe that going solely with a powered sub would get you 90% of where you want to go for 20% of the effort and expense. I also believe that if you are capable of removing door panels and replacing factory speakers that you are likely capable of installing a powered sub without having to contract it out. BTW, did you happen to notice what color the speaker wires in your back door were. Just curious; mine were pink and blue?
Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985
Contrary to popular beleif, you cannot cause speaker damage by "underpowering" a speaker. However, if you start clipping/overdriving your amp, it can easily do 2-3 times its nameplate wattage, but its "trash power" in the form of square waves (BAD!!) which spells death to speakers.
You're killing me Smalls.... IME, in most cases when folks start "clipping/overdriving (their) amp" it's because their amps are underpowered relative to the sound levels they are attempting to produce. So in essence they actually are damaging their speakers by underpowering them, no?
BTW, did you happen to notice what color the speaker wires in your back door were. Just curious; mine were pink and blue?
Yes they are pink and blue on my 2015. I just installed the Rockford fosgates in the rear doors over the weekend. The crutchfield master sheets also list them that way.
Yes they are pink and blue on my 2015. I just installed the Rockford fosgates in the rear doors over the weekend. The crutchfield master sheets also list them that way.
Cool; so all the OP needs to install the Kenwood is an "easy to get to" switched power wire to tap into for the sub turn on lead. Like I said before, there's got to be a suitable wire in one of those B-pillars, power rear windows maybe (although I'm not sure the windows work with key in acc position; for that matter not sure if a 2015 EX even has a key...)
08-24-2018 | 06:23 PM
. IME, in most cases when folks start "clipping/overdriving (their) amp" it's because their amps are underpowered relative to the sound levels they are attempting to produce. So in essence they actually are damaging their speakers by underpowering them, no?
