Car: 2015 Ex CVT

I want to replace the factory speakers with some and add an amp also, but I have a few questions.

1. I really don't want to splice into the factory's wires. Where can I find an aftermarket harness for the factory radio deck?

2. Want a to hide the amp and have it close to the factory radio. Has anyone tried mounting behind the deck or behind the glove compartment?

3. I prefer not to have it run directly to the battery. On the fuse box, is there an open slot to add a 15amp fuse to allow me to connect the amp to it?


I just want to replace speakers and add an amp. Not trying to go all crazy on the upgrades, any suggestion/comment will be appreciated.

Thank you.

 

I have two sets of those speakers for sale $50 each. plus shipping =)


I highly recommend you running a good 4gauge power wire with a fuse to your amp. I had two arc audio amps under each of my seats. I don't think there is any space fof your amp behind the factory deck. You have some room under the passenger side foot rest if you lift up the carpet there is a foam you could cut the amp into it.

 

I just looked at the amp you posted. You might have space above the glove compartment. Just open your glove and squeeze the left and right side until the glove box drop down then you can just pull the glove box straight out so you have exist to look.

 

Fibrepunk, I've replaced all my speakers and am gathering equipment to add two amps and a small sub. I didn't want to cut into the factory wiring at all either and will be keeping the factory head unit. I ordered 3 adapters, (1) Metra 71-1729 and (2) Metra 72-1729's. The 71 will plug into the back of the factory unit, and the 72 will connect to the factory harness. I ordered 2 of the 72's because they don't have all the connections and didn't want to lose any functions on the factory head unit. I de-pinned one of the 72's and matched up the missing wires to the 71. All the speaker wires I have running back to the back of the car to an EQ and amp. for your set up you could do this and just run them to your amp and back over the glove box. I'm not sure on how big the amp is, but there's a small gap between the center console and firewall you may check if it fits there too.

 

Just did a calculation, 8 gauge is more than enough as it will likely be under 10 ft of cable and for the amp I will be using, maxing out at 300 watts with 2 ohm. Ref: Cable Gauge Chart

 

Yup, the amp is very compact. I don't intend to have a big amp and needing to mount it somewhere in the back, then all the wires. Seem like the only way to find out is to really get the amp and mount it.

Now the question is, how easy it is to reach the rear of the factory deck to unplug the harness? Would save me a lot of work if I don't have to remove other parts beside the glove compartment.

 

Thank you. But I think you wanted to say 70-1729 instead of 72-1729? The amp is pretty small, though Alpine makes a smaller amp (Alpine KTP-445U), but Clarion has better power and the Alpine has the total harmonic distortion at 1% while the Clarion has it only at 0.1%. Comparison: Clarion XC1410 vs Alpine KTP-445U

So far this is what I got:

1. Power to Clarion XC1410 amp (Size: Width (inches) 8-1/4, Height (inches) 1-9/16, Depth (inches) 2-3/4)
-- Mini ATM Fuse Tap Adapter (25A fuse)
-- 8 Gauge wires (under 10ft)

2. Mount Clarion XC1410 amp (somewhere behind/below glove compartment)
-- Zip/Cable ties to somewhere solid. Or is there somewhere I screw it to, I will do that.

3. Radio to the Clarion amp
-- Metra 71-1729 harness connects to Metra 70-1729 harnesses (needing to buy 2, to un-pin one to populate the other)
-- Match up the cables on the connection between the 71-1729 and 7-1729, except the speaker cables
-- Metra 71-1729 harness 8 speakers wire (4 pairs) to the amp

4. Amp to speakers
-- Amp out to the speakers cables on the Metra 70-1729 speaker cables (front/rear matching up)
-- Metra 70-1729 harness connects to the factory harness

5. Speakers installation/connection
-- Speaker adapters ????? (Anyone with ref to the speaker adapter for the 2015 fit?)
-- Metra 72-7800 harnesses (2 pairs, 4 total) to connect factory harness to the Infinity Kappa 62.11i speakers.


Basically, just looking for the speaker adapter for the Honda 2015 Fit left. Don't think I missed anything else there.

 

I orderd Scosche Adapters today, Crutchfield gave me a part number. I was Scosche SAHC634. I ordered from Amazon with two pairs of Metra wire harness adapters. Amazon says it doesn't fit, but I am going to trust Crutchfield. If they don't fit I will sent them back, though.

 

Yeah, do let me know if the adapters fit. Looking from the picture, the adapter doesn't look like it will fit. The adapter should have like 2 pins at the bottom and a screw hold on the middle top. I recall someone on here took out the door panel and you can see that it has 2 lower pins/taps for you to clip on, then there is a middle screw on the top for you to secure the adapter to the door. TIA

 

Sure will! I looked up a '14 Fit on Scosche's website but it looked like a poorer fit than the part I mentioned above. The part above looks like it should have the proper depth of the original speaker mount. I thought the picture looked like it had the two prongs on the bottom. When they arrive on Tuesday, hopefully I'll have time to check. I took the door panel off today, and it was pretty easy. It came off a lot easier than I thought it would.

I have a thread going for my amp installation, where did you run your power wire? I found a grommet behind the brake pedal, but when I pulled it out there was yellow stuff on the other side. I was afraid it was something behind the brake booster, but then I looked closely from the engine bay side and I think it's just the color of the back of the trim panel on the firewall.

Here's the grommet I was talking about, and that's the brake pedal arm in the picture.

 

Try looking left closer to the fuel cap release, right above it you will see the fuse box. Tap into that for power and depending on your amp, get the right fuse for it and wire gauge.

 

I didn't know you could power an amp from a kick panel fuse. I thought the amp needed to be run from the battery. I bought an add-a-circuit to connect the REM wire to the amp.

 

1. The amp I am going to be installing won't be drawing a lot of power comparing to others who are putting in really high power amps.

2. Why not? The fuse box is just a location where power gets routed to other devices in the car. It depends on the devices, you can see the amp on the fuses to protect the devices from damage.

3. I haven't looked in detail, but I will find a slot in the fuse box to tap it for power and of course I will add a fuse.

 

I forgot you posted that you were using a smaller draw. What's the fuse rating on your amplifier? Mines rated for 30A, the fuse holder that came with my 8 AWG installation kit is 50A. I don't know what the actual draw from is though. I just know that the driver in my sub is rated at 4-ohms, but the tuba design is highly efficient, so less power is needed to drive it.

 

Rated fuse = 25A for the Clarion XC1410

 

If someone gets the Alpine KTP-445U amp, which draws even less power, uses only a 15A fuse.

 

Here is a youtube of the Scosche SAHC634 adapter, though it is installed on a Honda Accord, it looks like they fit perfectly to the GK Fit. But I will wait for your confirmation before placing an order for them.

 

If it's not snowing when I get home, I'll try to get around to changing the rear speakers. The mounts and wire adapters came yesterday, and I think they right like it will fit.

 

With the EX and EX-L trim, will the tweeter on a two-way speaker be negated by whatever the default crossover is for the tweeters in the dash? I kept the speakers from my trade in, so that's what I'm putting in the rear doors, but I was wondering if all the high end is directed to the front tweeters. If I were to decide to match the front door speakers to the rear, I didn't know if it would make sense to keep with a two-way.

 

That I am not sure. But can someone who has pulled out the head unit can confirm seeing a crossover somewhere for the speakers/tweeters.

Or if someone has equipments to test the signal on the front door speakers to confirm.

But even if it does, though it is a waste of $ to have crossovers/tweeters to the front/rear speakers, no harm is done there.