2015 Ex-L Navi won’t start. Seems like battery is good as lights are strong and it makes some fast loud clicking. Going to have it towed to dealer Saturday. Battery or starter? Any quesses ? Bummer just when someone told me hondas are great low maintenance trouble free cas.

 

Normally they are. But we've had anecdotal reports of GK starter failure occurring before and after the warranty expires, and it seems to be more prevalent in the pushbutton start models. Honda has been all over the place as far as response - sometimes they foot the entire bill, sometimes nothing, sometimes half or service credits to that effect.

I told one forumite here to go have the dealer check it out (just out of warranty) and the dealer charged him a $125 "diagnostic" fee to tell him he had a bad starter.

So I recommend contacting Honda corporate before you take it to a dealer, and ask them how to proceed. They will hopefully give you a better response than any one dealer would.

 

Thanks for the reply. It is a CPO and bumper to bumper through November so I am going direct to dealer and see what happens. Can’t drop off/ have towed until Saturday. Will keep you posted.

 

try jumping it anyway if clicking. chances are not enough cca

 

+1
Lights use little power. They may still come on even if the battery is weak. Starter motors on the other hand need a lot of power and get fussy if the battery voltage is too low. So lights being on doesn't really tell you anything and still leaves you back at battery or starter.

Since you have a tow truck coming to take it to the dealership get a boost from him first. And while you're sitting around today check your battery connections to make sure they're not loose or corroded.

 

 

yah, 3yrs is early but depending on how the car was used prior it can die. most people drain their batteries by listening to the stereo while the engine is not running or even worse, running the a/c while the engine is off.. and driving only short distances can all end up with a premature death.

my previous 3 Fits batteries all lasted the 5-6yrs of my ownership and when traded in, they all had good cold cranking amps. even though my current GK is garbage, the battery is fine.

 

Well my car started with jump and I drove about 8 miles and let sit a few hours and it started without a jump. Drove to dealer and got their “complimentary “ battery test. What a joke. A slip of paper saying not fully charged and further testing recommended. By the way battery not covered under CPO bumper to bumper warranty only covered under original factory 3yr/36,000 mi. warranty. Further testing is a complete charging/ electrical diagnostic at 110.00 dollars and if alternator or something besides battery it would be paid by warranty along with what is wrong but if only a bad battery reading I am out the 110 plus cost of new battery. I opted for new battery at 178. installed even though the advisor quoted me 158 the day before. The advisor I had said he had just put in fit battery yesterday but when he put in my vin # it came up with this battery. I asked why my vin# makes it a different fit battery and got basically it is what it is as an answer. As I was in waiting room I called another dealer about an hour away and they quoted me 145 installed. I mentioned that to the advisor and he said he can stop the work if didn’t want it done there. I ended up finding a 10 dollar off special on their web site while still waiting for my car and at payment time showed it to the advisor. He had to redo all the paper work. I don’t think he liked that. I definitely will be taking my car an hour up the freeway for further dealer work as I did for the first service last year because they were almost 50 bucks less. Th advisor was very clear in saying that they are changing the battery upon my request and that there could be several reasons why the car did not start. I hope it is just the battery and if not they are not the ones I will have fix it. I can’t wait for the “ how did we do” review email to follow.

 

It would've been cheaper to get a 51R sized battery instead. I and a few others here did.

The GK is handicapped with the stock battery. Even Car&Driver had issues with their long term tester.

​​​​

 

yah, battery swap is easy.. but oh well, u already paid.

people say shit about the Fit's battery but i say it's user error. just be careful not to drain it while the engine is off and drive at least 10miles or so when you can per trip. or just get a battery manager (battery tender) and hook it up when the car is not going to be in use for over 2wks, etc. ive never had a battery die in the 10+yrs and 4 fits.

 

Completely agree with user error.

My issues with my old batteries with my GE8:

1. Loose battery terminals from non oem battery. Need to shim to get em tight.
2. Loose connection at the chassis ground.
3. Thin Aluminum grounding point, solution added more grounds.
4. Repeated battery draining. Had to refill with distilled water.
5. Parasitic drain. Stupid Viper alarm drains too much battery after a few days of being parked.


So far no issues with my GK battery yet. I do have my 'newish' AGM battery too from my GE8 standing by. Let's see when winter comes.

 

So is putting in a 51r just plug and play or does something have to be modified?
Will it fit in existing hole?
Would it void a warranty issue?

 

Haven't tried it myself, but found this after some searching.


https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...y-2016-ex.html