Originally Posted by Action Jackson

Thank you for posting this and taking the time to do it.


In my own years of experience on many car forums, even with a stickied post, there will ALWAYS be someone asking the same questions again and again without taking the time to do a simple search.

Originally Posted by Action Jackson

Thank you for posting this and taking the time to do it.

Originally Posted by 2Rismo2

3.5 US quarts for an oil change including the filter

Originally Posted by woof

There are actually two official Honda oil filters for the Fit. You have listed the Fram version but there is an earlier version:

Honda OEM 15400-PLM-A01 (made by Filtech)

The Filtech was the first filter and Honda later introduced the Fram manufactured version. Both are still apparently officially sold and you get one or the other depending on what happens to be in stock. The Fram is to be avoided as it is cheaply made and there are numerous very negative reviews of it on YouTube. I bought a case of 6 Filtechs on eBay recently since I do my own oil changes.

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

the ultimate thread ... . we've been needing this. Im willing to help, lmk if any diagrams are needed, repair guides, etc

Originally Posted by SilentStray

NOTE: Do NOT buy FRAM filters.

Originally Posted by evilchargerfan

this thread is too good/useful to have a battle over filters. perhaps we can create a separate oil filters faq thread, specifically so we can battle it out =)

I will suggest, perhaps remove the "avoid fram" comment, as fram buyers may be offended. I'll also agree that PL14610 is an awesome filter, I have a good 8+ yrs/100k worth of uoa's to show how awesome they are at doing their job.


BACK ON TOPIC:

Ordering OEM/Alt. Parts and Accessories:
https://www.hondapartsguys.com/ <--- suggested add, I know a few other stores are mentioned, but from what I can tell these guys have a great competitive edge for pricing and shipping fees

Originally Posted by knope

Great collection, here's the TPMS recalibrate procedure: https://youtu.be/64URhqvWs8s

Originally Posted by stembridge

DISCLAIMER - Do this at your own risk. These are not official instructions or procedures, and if you choose to attempt this mod, your experience may vary. SEVERE INJURY or DEATH can occur if the airbag goes off while you are working near it.

The parts have been sitting in my shop since July (2015), and I finally got the nerve up to do this somewhat ticklish swap. I got the leather steering wheel and CVT shift knob from one of the many OEM Honda parts houses online:

Leather Steering Wheel

Leather CVT Shift Selector Knob

The shift knob was a simple, one-minute swap (no pics) - just carefully pry the front cover under the "trigger" button forward and off (use a plastic putty knife or similar so you don't mar it), then lift the old knob off. Reverse disassembly instructions for your new leather knob. Done!

The steering wheel, on the other hand, was much more complicated, with a hint of danger since you'll be handling the airbag module.

First step is to disconnect the battery - I pulled the ground side and made sure it was tied back so it couldn't accidentally flop back over and make contact with the post while I was working in the cabin. Be sure to wait 15-30 minutes to let any residual electrons settle down (saw this on another mod post, so I presume there are capacitors or backup batteries somewhere in the system that need to bleed off).



Not having any instructions, I took the top and lower cover off behind the steering wheel itself, but it turns out there's really nothing there you need to disconnect, so you can dispense with that step. I'll include a couple photos just for reference, though. There's one screw underneath near the tilt lock lever, and the top cover just pops off, revealing two more screws that become accessible by rotating the wheel about 15° each side of "straight." Remove those, and the lower cover comes off.







Here's where things get fun. There are two torx screws accessible from either side of the back of the wheel – those hold the airbag module in place. It would not be unreasonable to wear safety glasses while handling the module, and think about where your hands and head are in relation to where the bag might go were it to go off. USE YOUR HEAD - YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY HERE!



With those two screws out, you can easily life the airbag module out, but note that there are several connections that will prevent you removing it right off.



First up is the horn connector:



It was actually a bit of a bear to remove. It's wrapped in foam, and was hard to tell if there's a spring clip on there or not. I kept worrying it with a small flat-blade screwdriver and finally got it to pop off.

Next up is to disconnect the airbag module. There are two connectors, and each have two white spring-loaded catches that have to be pried up at the same time. I used a pair of small flat-blade screwdrivers and once you get both tabs up, the whole connecter pops right off. The airbag module can be carefully set aside at this point.



Next up is to remove the steering wheel bolt. It's essentially a big cap screw, with an inset hex hole. I happened to have the right socket end to fit it, but it's not a common tool, so you may have to pick one up at an auto parts store (shouldn't cost more than a few bucks). I quickly realized that substantial leverage was going to be required - that bolt is *in there*. I finally ended up getting out my pneumatic lug wrench, and even it didn't break the bolt loose! It did, however, break the bond enough that I was able to use the long extension to get the bolt moving. I switched over to a long ratchet wrench to finish the extraction - the bolt has something like Loctite on the threads that required effort all the way out.



Once the bolt is out, make sure the airbag and horn wiring is pushed back out of the wheel, and then it would be a Really Good Idea to make a mark on both your old wheel and the steering shaft so you know the proper alignment of the two when you go to put it back together. After that, a good tug should have the wheel in your lap. Note that the floating ring (plastic) you're now looking at will indeed rotate easily. Try to avoid disturbing its location, as it also needs to be properly aligned to the steering wheel when you reinstall.



I tool the wheel into my heated shop for the next steps. First, remove the ground wire:



Note that the next steps require removal of various wiring and connectors, etc. Always look for the spring clip that holds each connector in place - some are kind of hard to get to, and you may need to partially or completely remove other components before you can get at them. Study it out and it should become obvious to you.

The rear cover is held in place by a number of clips. Take time to carefully study it before you start yanking on things, lest you break something. Each side uses two clips at the top that must be pressed at the same time (in directions 90° opposite from each other). Go ahead and do both sides, but don't try yanking the cover off just yet, because...



...you also need to unclip these at the bottom of the cover. They are quite firm, so be careful to not overstress them!



Next up is to remove the hands-free button cluster. The cover on the back side of the wheel just pops off, and you'll see two screws that hold it in place. I only removed the one screw (not seen) from the wheel itself.



You can now remove the paddle shifter modules - one screw for each:



I went ahead and transferred the paddles to my new wheel at this point. Note the pin and hole it goes into before you run your screw back in. The hole is rubber and is a "press fit."



The final piece to transfer is the front garnish. This was the diciest, as it is held in with numerous flared pins that fit into rubberized holes on the steering wheel itself. Go *very* slow and don't force anything here! I just kept carefully prying with a tape-wrapped flat screwdriver, moving things a mm at a time until I could see what was going on.







At this point, you should have everything removed from the old wheel. Installing the front garnish on the new wheel was ticklish. I had to trim a little off the leather wrap where it was slightly interfering with one of the front garnish pins, and otherwise, went slowly, not forcing anything.

Make sure you reconnect all the wiring as you go (now *that* would be a disappointment!), and once you have the wheel back together, reinstall it on the car (I do not have a torque value for the steering wheel bolt - I went as tight as I could with my long bar). Make sure you align the wheel and floating ring behind the wheel correctly as noted earlier! Thread your horn and airbag wiring back in place and reinstall the airbag module.

If you did happen to remove the covers, put those back now.

Reconnect the battery and start 'er up! I had to reset my radio, but other than than, had no error codes or anything.



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DISCLAIMER (AGAIN!) - Do this at your own risk. These are not official instructions or procedures, and if you choose to attempt this mod, your experience may vary. SEVERE INJURY or DEATH can occur if the airbag goes off while you are working near it.