clutch judder
#1
clutch judder
anyone ever get "clutch judder" on their gk5?
Sometimes when I'm taking off from 1st gear, my car starts juddering/jerking continuously. I can make the juddering stop If i let off the gas.
Sometimes when I'm taking off from 1st gear, my car starts juddering/jerking continuously. I can make the juddering stop If i let off the gas.
Last edited by Ryfle; 04-04-2017 at 12:26 PM.
#3
In whcih gear does this "shudder" occur? Could your reference be to transmissionor drivetrain lash?
Most cars will suffer from some lash in low gear or less than smooth response to abrupt throttle changes in low gear where the throttle isn't used smoothly. In some cars it can be awful, or noticed in higher gears as well.
Ryfle, I would find someone familiar with manual transmission use and demonstrate the problem for that person. If they critique your driving, you will have identified the source of your problem.
Last edited by nobdy; 04-04-2017 at 08:48 AM.
#5
I had a typo. I meant to say that the jerking STOPS once i let off the gas. It only happens as a i take off from 1st gear.
It is a continuous back and forth jerk, multiple times--almost as if the RPM's are sputtering.
It is a continuous back and forth jerk, multiple times--almost as if the RPM's are sputtering.
#6
Then I would concur in Toronto's diagnosis.
#7
Yes, it happens from time to time. Gotta let the clutch out more slowly to avoid it. It usually happens when releasing clutch quickly while not giving it enough gas to properly compensate, then requesting over 50% throttle input immediately after = jerking back and forth.
#8
Our Fit MT's have soft engine/transmission mounts plus a heavy-ish flywheel, which do reduce vibrations but it comes at a cost - driveline resonance. Aka rubber-banding or pilot-induced oscillations. Typical for ordinary Hondas (not higher-performance models) and my old Subaru was terrible for this. VW and Toyota seem to have it sorted (and maybe patent-protected).
If they tuned the Fit driveline like a first-gen Integra, I'd be real happy and they'd sell alot more MT Fits, but it ain't gonna happen. So I live with the compromise and think of mine as a mini-odyssey with a stick-shift and half the fuel consumption.
Suggestions:
- launch harder!
- try to plant your heel on the floor and pivot your foot without lifting your heel (dorsiflexion of the ankle), this makes a short connection between your foot, the clutch pedal and car, so the car motions don't feed back into your leg and your controlling movements. Same technique might help for releasing the clutch.
- try different shoes and see if any particular pair is better or worse, you might find that smooth-bottomed less-grippy shoes work better than sticky rubber-soled shoes.
- try making some contact with the outside edge of your right shoe and the center console, as a bit of friction there may damp out the motions.
Dave
If they tuned the Fit driveline like a first-gen Integra, I'd be real happy and they'd sell alot more MT Fits, but it ain't gonna happen. So I live with the compromise and think of mine as a mini-odyssey with a stick-shift and half the fuel consumption.
Suggestions:
- launch harder!
- try to plant your heel on the floor and pivot your foot without lifting your heel (dorsiflexion of the ankle), this makes a short connection between your foot, the clutch pedal and car, so the car motions don't feed back into your leg and your controlling movements. Same technique might help for releasing the clutch.
- try different shoes and see if any particular pair is better or worse, you might find that smooth-bottomed less-grippy shoes work better than sticky rubber-soled shoes.
- try making some contact with the outside edge of your right shoe and the center console, as a bit of friction there may damp out the motions.
Dave
#9
use higher rpm to engage the clutch and/or a tad more slip before full clutch engagement. ur probably clutching-out too quickly. typical newb error as the left leg is not very controlled yet. you need to build more refined muscle control. GL
#10
I get that from brand new and was really worried. i'm not ENTIRELY convinced its the springs in the clutch, it may be called a "low speed stumble" which may be related to the direct injection. Our cars have a dampner or accumulator in the clutch which basically means you can let it out basically as fast as you want and the CAR will compensate. Ever since i found that out i let the clutch out much more agressively. I cant say that completely fixes it. i really hope it isnt a sign of later problems though, but if it makes you feel better your probably not alone.
#11
Enlighten me....are you talking 'bout traction control? Not sure what ya mean...
#12
No there is a valve in the clutch line or clutch master cylinder that limits the speed the clutch can engage, BMW has it on their cars, first thing I took off after I bought it.. Annoying as heck and caused weird behavior depending on temperature, phase of the moon etc..
#14
Mine will do it. It's not the clutch. It's the engine lurching. Over the years, I've always tried to minimize clutch slippage on take off. Engaging the clutch early with moderate throttle, and it lurches. Back off throttle and it stops.. I usually just immediately go to 2nd.
#15
Mine will do it. It's not the clutch. It's the engine lurching. Over the years, I've always tried to minimize clutch slippage on take off. Engaging the clutch early with moderate throttle, and it lurches. Back off throttle and it stops.. I usually just immediately go to 2nd.
unless u're riding the clutch it is fine to slip the clutch on take off for 2-3 sec. just dont mash the gas while the clutch is not fully engaged.
ive owned over 20 cars that were all MT.. none required clutch replacement...even the ones that i let my friends practice on.
#16
Older thread but I came it across it and wanted to say that BZDANG nailed the explanation.
I was having the same "rubber-banding" issue in my 2017 6-speed, and I replaced the rear mount with a HASport and it helped reduce the occurrence significantly...
I do still get the issue from time to time. I've noticed it happens most commonly when I am making a left turn from a stop onto a quick moving road, which I'd say I'm about 75% open throttle... If I had to guess, it's a combo of the driver side axle and the engine mounts loading up in a way that they sync-up and then release.
More throttle usually just spins the inside wheel, so more often I'll just shift to second...
I was having the same "rubber-banding" issue in my 2017 6-speed, and I replaced the rear mount with a HASport and it helped reduce the occurrence significantly...
I do still get the issue from time to time. I've noticed it happens most commonly when I am making a left turn from a stop onto a quick moving road, which I'd say I'm about 75% open throttle... If I had to guess, it's a combo of the driver side axle and the engine mounts loading up in a way that they sync-up and then release.
More throttle usually just spins the inside wheel, so more often I'll just shift to second...
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