Is a squirt of WD-40 an acceptable alternative for anti-sieze lubricant on lug nuts?

 

Dont use oil on lug nuts!

u shouldn't need to use any anti seize. just torque to spec.

 

I had a stock lug nut seize at a track event once. When I finally got the nut off, it pulled threads with it. I replaced the studs with open end nuts so I could spray PB Blaster or T9 or something before I tried breaking them loose.

There isn't a general rule for this. It will depend on your driving conditions, as well as the condition of you studs and lugs.

If they're really corroded, it might be a good idea to spray them first.

 

I always use anti-seize on my wheel studs and other automotive applications and have never had a problem in 25 Years. Bolts stretch upon tightening and that provides the primary holding force, with thread friction between bolt and nut a lesser element.

There are widely varying opinions on this question and not much accord. I think trouble comes for the average motorist when their lug nuts are overtorqued by the local garage, they ignore tire rotation and they live in a difficult climate. Eventually a tire needs to be changed and everything is corroded tight.

 

Using anti-seize lubricant was one of the wheel changing instructions from TireRack.com

 

I've been working at car dealers since the 70's and probably have seen about every scenario, wheels stuck to rotors, broken lug studs, stripped lug nuts etc. On my own vehicles, I'm never without anti-seize when I pull a wheel. The back of the wheel gets a light coat, as well as the stud threads and the tapered cone of the nuts.
The next stud I break will be my first.

Bill

 

Wheel Tech Information - How to Install Your Tire & Wheel Package

They say not to apply to studs or lug nuts.

I've personally never applied any and haven't had them seize. I also rotate every 5k so really doesn't have time to get too stuck on. Just put the proper torque to the lug nuts and you should be fine.

 

Thanks! I must have misunderstood the verbal instructions.

 

Doubtful. U probably read it wrong.

Edit. Oh never mind! (Post above)

 

I always use wd40 on the studs. But I make sure to thoroughly wipe off excess with a clean paper napkin to ensure that there's absolutely no excess. If I don't use lubricant, there's always one or more nuts making those sudden metallic noises when removing and it always gives me a mini heart attack: did it take out the nut threads or not? So wd40 always saves the day. And the good news is: I just purchased a torque wrench. Manual says to hand tighten the nuts: i.e. not apply foot force lol.

 

After having difficulty removing corroded lug nuts on the side of the road on my first car, I've always used anti-seize. To this day, on my new cars, I remove each lug (one at a time) and apply some anti-seize.

I always torque my lug nuts, also. It is important to get each one at an equal tightness to minimize brake rotor warpage.



I have tracked my cars on many occasions, too. (I DO re-torque lugs prior to a track session.) The advice to coat the wheel/hub mating surface is a good one IMO; the coating promotes heat transfer to the wheels (and away from the brakes).

I don't think that WD-40 would remain on the surfaces for a long enough period of time to be effective as an anti-seize. I prefer the paste-type coatings.

 

My lug bolts were pristine, but the face of the alloy EX wheels were lightly "seized" to brake drum or rotor hub. Putting lube there makes sense.

 

I use a teeny tiny bit of grease on the threads on the inside of the lug nut. I've had to remove lug nuts that were seized to the studs, and it's not fun (nor does it make for long-lived studs). The lug nuts don't tend to work loose (if torqued properly) due to the slight lubrication.

WD40 would not be my first choice for this application.

 

after snapping off 6 lug nuts.. and going thru hell and back to take apart everything to change my wheel studs... anti seize goes on my studs each time i put them back on...

you may think putting it back to spec is good enough, but someday... those wheel studs will dry up and not go on and smooth, and that 1 day when you take them off, it will just snap.

 

It does not take much anti-seize applied to the back of the wheels and studs. One coating will last the life of the vehicle. After having to beat and heat off many alloy wheels, I have anti-seized every wheel on every vehicle I have owned.

As far as lubrication longevity goes, forget WD-40.

I like Loctite C5A (good to -30 to 1800 F.) , but for wheels any of the nickel based ones (Permatex, etc.) will work fine. Permatex is rated for (-60 to 1600 F.)

 

screw it, I got that huge ass value pack tub, and i don't think i would ever finish it in my lifetime, hopefully it doesn't hurt anything with me using it so much.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8007.../dp/B000FW7VGE

 

That will work.

I have some of that brand around too. You can get the nickel based Permatex brand at most auto parts stores.

If you use too much is will just be thrown out and you might later have to wash it off of the inside of the wheels. The only place you do not want to use too much is on spark plug threads. It will sometimes short out the plugs. I have more than once had to clean up some aircraft plugs after some well meaning mechanic used too much on them.

 

I always brush on a coat on the hub to wheel surface area, and a light coat around the wheel stud threads.


Obviously if you see rust, hit it with a wire brush.