Anyone put this into their 2015/2016 Honda Fit? Any issues? Be great to get some feed back. I have 7 bottles of it sitting in my garage I'd like to use.

 

Considering the extremely tight engineering requirements of the CVT, I wouldn't put anything into it that didn't come from Honda.

 

I use Mobil 1™ Extended Performance oil for my 2015 Fit.

 

is this for the engine oil or the CVT transmission? I'm looking into the transmission fluid. If it is the transmission fluid, Why did you replace it? When did you replace it? and how is your car so far since replacing it?

 

Sorry, my bad. The Mobil 1 is engine oil. As for transmission oil, I would only use Honda stuffs for Honda cars.

 

Amsoil CVT exceeds even the latest factory Nissan CVT fluid. We have seen time after time Honda has "spooked" the auto form people about their oil. Their regular ATF is nothing special and ANY top tier AFT will exceed their DW-1 is quality and longevity. This very well could be the case for CVT tranny oil, but we don't have any evidence yet like we do with ATF garbage they spook us with.

We will need someone like Amsoil or Redline to do testing like they did with Nissan. That won't happen anytime soon because the Nissan CVT was having so many problems Amsoil aggressively went after testing to see if they could fix or help it with their oil. As they say they did help it. Bias yes, but they are backing up their oil with a "yes" you can run it with some faith. I do not know if you would get a"yes" go a head with the changing over a Honda CVT. At least not yet. A call to their tech line is in order here.

I send my rotary screw air compressor oil to a retired Allison automatic transmission engineer who started his own oil analysis company. He is on the DoD and GM automatic transmission boards as as referring engineer. We talked about this so called "Honda has to have Honda ATF oil" scheme they spook people with. He said it is all BS. Zero problems with running top tier after market synthetic ATF in Honda's. If the trannys are blowing it would of blown with Honda oil in them. In fact Honda Z1 ATF was so sub standard he questions the quality of DW-1. Honda is just not known for top tier oil in the industry of the people that are in the know.

He did say CVT are different and we still need more testing from Amsoil, Redline, Castroil, RP, Valvoline and all the others. People are having great results too with Valvoline synthetic CVT oil. Some problems fixed by not using factory CVT fluid. So it is up to YOU if you want to gamble. BUT I would only gamble with Amsoil or Redline saying they have faith in their oil like they do say with all Nissan CVTs. Then I would go a head. I don't have much faith in Honda's oil technology or "choice" of buying cheap oil to put their name onto as an OEM oil.

I myself was going to buy a new 2016 Fit and planned to use Honda CVT fluid during warranty, just because they can drag their feet if they know you used someone else's oil. MY game plan was to dump the CVT fluid at 4,000 miles to get the break-in metal out, and then dump every 15,000 to 20,000 miles since some Subaru oil analysis I have seen had high particulate counts at even 13,000 miles. I am hard on tranny's so I have to pay to play with running good clean oil. I do 3 flushes every 25,000 miles on my ATF pumper Fit. Cheap insurance when you do it yourself, $125



I run Redline D6 and a Redline light weight racing and regular racing ATF in my 2009 Fit with great results. I run the racing ATF to dilute the the friction modifiers that are in the D6, I want nice firm shifts to reduce heat and wear. Many many people run all brands of synthetic ATF in their Honda ATF pumpers with great results.

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[QUOTE=Mainia;1344356]I run Redline D6 and a Redline light weight racing and regular racing ATF in my 2009 Fit with great results. I run the racing ATF to dilute the the friction modifiers that are in the D6, I want nice firm shifts to reduce heat and wear.

How much of each? Or what ratios? And which fluid did Honda originally want you to use (DW-1 or Z1)? The Redline regular racing ATF says "(type F)" which kinda surprised me.
Thanks

 

Mixing oils without knowing the exact chemistry is a coin toss.. and the problem is the effect can take a long time to show up, and a single car test is not a significant sample..

Need like 1000 cars to try the same cocktail to see if it works across all useage models..

 

[QUOTE=Oneoldphlaytis;1344382]
I do the 3 dump and fills with Redline D6 and on the 3rd fill(3 Qts) I use a 50/50 mix of lightweight racing and regular racing to get the same viscosity as D6. So that would be 1.5 Qts of each, give or take. You can do the math by going to the Redline site and getting viscosity specs. I do 50/50, close enough for me.

I still wanted less slip, so I drained 1 Qt and added .5 Qts of each. There is no difference of the base of type F then less to no friction modifiers. Redline will not give you a definite YES, they say a lot of people do this daily without any issues, and they don't say "ho no don't do that!!! like all the "I ONLY FOLLOW WHAT HONDA SAYS, THEY ARE THE MANUFACTURE AND THEY ARE ALWAYS RIGHT IN WHAT THEY SAY"

Honda gave us Z-1 automatic transmission fluid, some of the worst transmission fluid made. Discount 5 year old Walmart ATF is superior to Z-1 ATF.

Remember Honda wants you to run their first run factory oil for 5,000 plus miles. How assinin is that. Glitter oil is what I call that oil. You might as well get a couple sheet of 1000 grit sand paper and a razor blade and scrape off the media and add it to your oil for 5,000 miles. Oh, don't worry ......the filter will catch 30 micron and above, don't worry about everything below that.

All the oil has in it is a high molybdenum content. High Moly oil can be bought to stop the most likely logical use for the stop or reduction of piston scuffing on a new motor.

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No this is NOT a coin toss one bit. This has been done for 30 years by hundreds and thousands of car owners. I brought this up to the guy I work with on our oil analysis who in fact helped design Castrol's synthetic ATF. He said no issue there, that is how we do it. We cocktail all the time. You just use the same brand and oil base. (As my Redline cocktaiing).

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So here is my experience with ENGINE oil from my current honda fit.

When I dropped the oil at 997 miles, it looked like something that had been used for like 5 thousand miles. It was brown, with metallic flakes in it. It was NOT NEW OIL. Is that how it was suppose to be when you buy A BRAND NEW CAR off a dealer lot? I decided to change the oil filter as well. I replaced my oil/oil filter at 997 miles with a K n N oil filter made for my fit and a 0w20 weight royal purple oil. Since replacing Honda oil with Royal Purple, engine vibrations have essentially been eliminated and the engine just feels like it runs 30% better and smoother than being on the Honda oil.

If my engine oil looked heavily used at 997 miles and I'm at 3700 miles without replacing the transmission fluid at all. Would it be wise to replace it? I mean the qaulity of engine oil, tbh, looked like fucking garbage, like crap i couldve bought in some random gas station... I was fairly upset with the quality of ENGINE oil coming out of my car at 997 miles... kinda like a WTF honda

 

Just wanted to add, the Amsoil website states their Synthetic CVT fluid is a recommended replacement for the Honda HCF-2 fluid, that's the one the Fit uses.

I don't know how trusteful Amsoil is.

 

Yeah I've been on their website. When you go to the Car specifics, there is a note in red saying its recommended to use ONLY HCF 2... but then when I go to the Nissan Specific cars, they TOO also have a only use Nissan NE3 or w/e oil they use, BUT they advertise their CVT fluid to be an equal if not better replacement for Nissan... so AMSoil advertises their Full synthetic CVT fluid is a replaceable for all nissans, but when you double check the details for nissan, in red it says to only use Nissan CVT oil... lol contridicting information on Amsoil website... anyone know of any LEGIT TRACK RACERS who have been using AMSoil or any race transmission oil in their cars??? I think that would be a better tell of the quality of Transmission oil, than an everyday application...

 

How trustworthy is any MLM company?

CVTs are not like any engine or automatic transmission. They have very critical requirements for their fluid. I'd never take a risk of using an aftermarket fluid even if it is listed as compatible on a website.

Honestly, the Honda stuff is $12 per quart and the Amzoil is $14. You're paying more for a product that isn't vetted by Honda.

 

Only if i had a cvt i would try it for you guys but i'm manual so waiting to hit 20k for my amsoil mtf.

 

I can't believe people listen to Honda on running their first run factory oil for 5,000 PLUS miles. Like you said, it is full of metal particles from the cross hatched cylinder walls. This is normal for a new engine. You have to dump the oil around 500 to 700 miles no later. Then again at say 1,800 miles. all that metal is smaller then the stock 30 micron filter filters, SO you are sand blasting your engine with fine metal shavings. NOPE, I always dump mine twice before going to a 4,000 to 4,500 mile oil change regiment.

BY the way dump your CVT oil, but I would use Honda CVT oil till we learn more on top tier aftermarket CVT oil. But if Honda did a crap job as they always do with their tranny oils, after market oil will be the way to go as with ATF Honda cars. I have no faith in Honda oil. They always go Cheap and spook the people on the internet thinking their oil is SO SPECIAL when it is sub standard oil or just ok oil. Nothing special.

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Do you know what the procedure is for doing a full 6 Quart change of the CVT? Is it like some transmissions where I can drain from the radiator line to the transmission and remove fluid of increments of 2 quarts? till i remove a full 6. Or do i just drain from the pan, fill, run through the gears, drain from pan, fill again and run through the gears?...

 

There is no radiator line to the tranny on my 2015(air bag) loaner.

Here is an HRV but no pan on this one? Should be the same or close to the Fit CVT? I will have to look under my 2015 loaner to see if it has a pan.


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either thats a RHD HRV, or the HRV naturally has it on the left side facing the car... in the USDM its on the right side, facing the car, from what I saw underneath my car. I still havent located the fill cap at the top, i think its underneath the air intake area... i got the weekend off, ill check it out.

 

So i did a double flush, a total of 7.25 quarts. I dont have pictures up but getting to the fill cap/hole is the hardest part about the flush.