I don't know that there is a Honda-specific pinch weld adapter. The one I use is like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141592441448?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true
But this won't work with a trolley-type jack. I have seen "hockey puck" type (plastic) adapters that might work. I think that so long as you were careful about placement of a trolley-type jack, you would not hurt the jack point, as it is an L-shaped piece and much stronger than I have seen on other vehicles, which seem to be multiple layers of vertical sheet metal.

Since the Honda Fit manual (at least in the US) recommends crossing over the tires for rotation, I have done this by including a fifth (snow or summer) tire in the rotation. PITA, yes. Recently I installed a lift in my garage, which will alleviate this problem, and others (I'm old . . .)

Hope you find a suitable solution.

 

I'm going to research how to make my own hockey puck pinch adapter. Hockey pucks, we have. Thanks for the link.

 

Do you rotate the tires while they are being held up by just the jack or do you place jack stands somewhere?

 

Most cars are fine with this. I'd jacked literally thousands of cars this way, unless its an old 70's monster which may or may not work your fine.

Many cars have jack points in the same spots you don't need the adapter for.
My BMW's I have a plate with a leg on it that does the same thing in the stock body holes.

 

I would avoid doing that if you have an alternative. It is possible to damage the car. It is not impossible you WON"T, I'm not saying you cannot do it, I just would stay away from that approach if you can. Granted if you are doing a wheel rotation you may not have much of an alternative.

 

As my shop teach used to say,, Jacks are cheap and they never apologize..
I use a pair of "blocks" made out of 2x10 lumber cut off 10 inches long and stacked about 1' high as safety stops in case something falls.

I had them chopped into 10" pieces at the hardware store and glued and nailed them alternating the grain direction. They are hell for strong and don't weigh too much.

I just wanted something I could slip under a car that was big enough getting in the perfect spot was less important, I lower the car down on them, but leave the jack in place just barely lifting the car.

 

Yes, I do. I would NEVER lie under a car held up only by a jack, but in this case all I'd be doing is swapping tires/wheels. There is no risk of personal injury if you're not under the car.

 

I agree with the jack safety. The risk is quite low.

 

Even with my DIY wood ramps 3" high my hydraulic jack would not pump because the handle was hitting the front of the car, preventing the jack from rising. I added 1.5" to the DIY wood ramps for a total of 4.5" and did not need to use the front jack point. Anyway here it is:




2015-2017 Honda Fit, front jack point, aft of the splash shield and front tires

 

Using the Honda jack with its hook-handle is a real pain which makes me consider buying a floor jack. Harbor Freight has an aluminum jack with a 3.5" min height. With the right coupon I might just buy it.

 

The jack would of course be Ok for the rear, but the issue is the front.

Yes the jack can fit underneath the car, but properly positioned there is not sufficient room to move the handle and therefore jack up the jack. The front jack point is too far from the front of the car to allow the jack handle sufficient range of motion. i built ramps from 2 x 10s instead.

 

I am older than dirt so the change over of winter to summer wheels is easy. Go to my Dodge dealer. Shoot the breeze with the mechanic while he does it and hand him lug nuts etc. They wash the wheels and mark them for next year.

I do have ramps and to get the front up I run up on pieces of 2 x 8 first as my lip hits the ramps.

 

Just use a hockey puck. It's like $2

It will compress and distort around whatever shape it's being pressed against and not damage it.

 

I'm Canadian, so have hockey pucks in the house. You did not even cut a groove? I was waiting until it was warmer outside so I could use my table saw to cut a groove. No groove and it is still Ok? Interesting.

 

No groove, not necessary

 

I thought this was a troll thread, but it was just an epic buffoonery in disguise.

 

I just use the jack ,, no pucks never had an issue on any car with a welded unibody.

A piece of wood works too..

 

Re the 2 images of the front jack point - isn't this spot normally covered by the plastic shielding that is under the car? There seems to be a conundrum here: you need to jack up the car to remove the shield; you need to remove the shield to jack up the car.

Is the 1.5 ton (Harbor Freight) jack strong enough to lift both front wheels? Also, it only has a 14 or 15 inch maximum height. That doesn't seem high enough to allow one to comfortably slide under the car with a creeper. Harbor Freight's 3 ton jacks (they have 3 models with the same specs but different model numbers) have a maximum height of about 19 inches. Also, looking at the owner manuals for the 3 Harbor Freight jacks – it seems they each have a different hydraulic unit. I'm having an awful time deciding which of the 3 I should buy.

 

I have one of the low profile 1.5 ton aluminum jacks from HF and have lifted much heavier cars than the Fit from center jack points enough to place jack stands at the pinch welds. (NEVER EVER get under a car held only by the jack) I don't use a creeper though.

 

OK, I finally found the front center jack point on my car. The image on page 1 was confusing me because the plastic shrouding to the rear has been removed I think. The image on page 2 gives a better idea of what the spot looks like whilst the shrouding is still in place. Also the image on page 1 doesn't show the round hole in the middle that you can see on page 2, and that I saw on my car.