lol, you echoed the exact words that the dyno tester at injen said to me about it running rich towards the top end, but yes i do plan on getting a tune done on the engine once Tanabe gets the exhaust put on to my car and i get my intake put back on within the next couple of months. i dont have the awesome VTEC on my engine, but at least the valve timing is adjustable through CVTC and you are right about the engine building torque, i always get a tiny bit of that push you back in your seat sensation whenever i floor it no matter what speed im going.

 

On another note (pun intended), the hills and valleys in the dyno run could be caused by a couple of things. I manage to get rid of this on my RAV4 by disabling VSC and traction control. Also, I had to not mash the throttle suddenly when the dyno run was started to record. What I had to do is 'roll' into full throttle instead of a full on throttle. For some reason, the combination of all those things caused the lines to run smooth instead of a rise-n-fall dyno plot. The roll-on throttle was the last missing link that eliminated the squiggly lines.

It's weird I know and dyno runs are expensive but no-one was offering me suggestions on how to get rid of the up-n-down power delivery so I had to keep playing and experimenting until that result came about. Just a thought!

 

i'll let the guys at injen know since they're the one's who had control over the car lol ....thanks for the tip though, i will definitely keep that in mind if/when i go to do another dyno run, i already have a set of SSR Type C competitions that i had on the car for a little bit before i had to take them off to get ready for another round of testing at Tanabe, but just those ultra light weight rims alone made a pretty significant difference in the handling and acceleration of the car....geez i miss having them on my car so much

 

If you ever want to test how the added horsepower/torque affects your ride, I have another idea for you. I tested some a lightweight Enkei wheel/tire combo against my stock run flat wheel/tires. They both had exactly the same hp/torque when I plotted horsepower/torque vs RPM. That's the standard way of testing. So people assumed you couldn't show any additional horsepower/torque going to the ground due to the lightweight wheels. My stock wheel/tires where 63lbs total. The Enkei/wheel tire combination was 34lbs (32lbs a piece now). It definitely was faster (4/10ths-5/10ths knocked off in the 1/4 mile). The dyno plot didn't show it.

That was until I plotted horsepower/torque over time. That is the way you will want to view the plot. I won't tell you what I think you'll see from what I saw. I did post my results here --> Stock Wheel vs Lighter Wheel - Dyno Results - Page 2 - Toyota RAV4 Forums Your results may vary!

All this may be getting off topic but I dyno'd my cars so much that it actually caused a problem in my marriage at one point. I spent way to much time testing little 'insignificant' stuff but I had to know if there were any differences in hp/tq. Fortunately, the dyno shop closed and none are near me anymore. I'm very excited to see your results on any items you test. Also, feel free to send me the raw dyno file. I have the software to look it over in any format for later comparisons if I ever hit one in the future. (I just like having the raw file for personal comparison...not for the boards).

 

here is a video of Jr SC CRZ CVT vs Manual Drag
the manual loses on every run!
Bumer for manual guys
CVT rocks :P

Here

if link doest work search youtube with
JRSC Honda CRZ CVT vs JRSC Honda CRZ 6MT Speed Test

 

not really sold on that, looks like the driver of the manual car had no clue. You can see it takes off from a near idle... the one big advantage the MT has and he wasnt using it. rigged?

anyway 1.5 years on with the GK5 and still my only regret and biggest hate on it is the CVT

 

I don't know how the DCT in the FIT works, but a good paddle equipped DCT, programmed with performance in mind, will ALWAYS be faster than a manual trans.

First, changing ratios is seamless, without any loss of power during changes, (this is exactly the point in using more than one clutch) and muuuch more quick than a manual.

Second, number of ratios, you have eight, nine, even ten speeds boxes, that will let the engine be in its optimal range most of the time, not possible with a 5 or 6 speed manual.

Third . Launch control- all performance oriented vehicles with a DCT will have this and it allows you to start at 100% every time.

Fourth- You can upshift or downshift in the middle of a curve without unsettling the car (see first point)

If you look at specs of DCT equipped european premium cars the DCT ones are always better than the manual ones.

A manual will be more fun to drive, I agree, but it will be slower at the track or the dragstripe.

 

talking about GK Fit, the DCT has no launch control, it bogs badly off the line and is slower. less control due to lack of clutch. Then there is the constant recalls it has here (Japan Hybrid has had many recalls due to DCT faults). I called it right with that one and dodged a bullet