Fuel Mileage Related Discussions
#1002
Negative, Ghosrtider. Driving slowly is more about wasting time than saving gas.
Changes in speed, either up or down, are what really wastes gas. So hard on the gas and as gentle as possible on the brakes is the best way to go. Harder acceleration also means less accelerating- a good launch gets you up to speed and off the gas a lot sooner than half throttle ever will.
Yes, you can burn even less gas by going more slowly, but on the same route it's negligible. This time of year if I get out the door a few minutes early and things go smoothly, I can keep it below 60, get mpg in the mid to high 40s and still get to work on time. If I'm running late I'll go as fast as traffic will let me. It generally flows in the 70s and when it opens up I keep it below 85. I get to work as soon as I can and still get over 40 mpg for the trip. The difference between a Cannonball Run and not having any reason to hurry is only a few mpg. Yes, the really good numbers do come from back roads at low speeds, but that's more because of conditions than anything else. There's no stopping and starting, no idling or having to jam on the brakes.
Where people get stupid is laying on the gas just to hit the brakes a few moments later, it's just a lot of wasted effort. I may look like I want to take all day getting to work, but really I just don't see the need to accelerate toward the brake lights in front of me. They're not going anywhere.
Changes in speed, either up or down, are what really wastes gas. So hard on the gas and as gentle as possible on the brakes is the best way to go. Harder acceleration also means less accelerating- a good launch gets you up to speed and off the gas a lot sooner than half throttle ever will.
Yes, you can burn even less gas by going more slowly, but on the same route it's negligible. This time of year if I get out the door a few minutes early and things go smoothly, I can keep it below 60, get mpg in the mid to high 40s and still get to work on time. If I'm running late I'll go as fast as traffic will let me. It generally flows in the 70s and when it opens up I keep it below 85. I get to work as soon as I can and still get over 40 mpg for the trip. The difference between a Cannonball Run and not having any reason to hurry is only a few mpg. Yes, the really good numbers do come from back roads at low speeds, but that's more because of conditions than anything else. There's no stopping and starting, no idling or having to jam on the brakes.
Where people get stupid is laying on the gas just to hit the brakes a few moments later, it's just a lot of wasted effort. I may look like I want to take all day getting to work, but really I just don't see the need to accelerate toward the brake lights in front of me. They're not going anywhere.
#1003
Opps, quote didn't quote quote. In any case I learned a LOONNGG time ago, the best way to drive in the snow is also the best way to save gas. Do everything slowly and avoid stopping if at all possible.
#1004
Where people get stupid is laying on the gas just to hit the brakes a few moments later, it's just a lot of wasted effort. I may look like I want to take all day getting to work, but really I just don't see the need to accelerate toward the brake lights in front of me. They're not going anywhere.
#1005
Where people get stupid is laying on the gas just to hit the brakes a few moments later, it's just a lot of wasted effort. I may look like I want to take all day getting to work, but really I just don't see the need to accelerate toward the brake lights in front of me. They're not going anywhere.
With the warmer weather here, my display is always in the 40s now. Love it!
#1006
I live in a hilly urban area. I am going up and down hills wherever I drive. I'm not sure what is the most fuel efficient way to climb hills: accelerate before climbing the hill or just chug up the hill at a constant speed. Anyone know?
#1007
Momentum is your friend if you want to save gas. Accelerate before you get to the climb and hold a speed that isn't over stressing or over reving the engine.
#1008
Right! I live in the Catskill Mountains, which are only a little over 3,000' at their highest. Still, I am always going uphill or down. I try ti gently build up some speed going downhill and keep a steady throttle going up. Speed drops, but the MPG indicator holds steady - up to point. I sometimes shift into neutral going downhill. I also shut the engine off at lights that I know are long.
#1009
Right! I live in the Catskill Mountains, which are only a little over 3,000' at their highest. Still, I am always going uphill or down. I try ti gently build up some speed going downhill and keep a steady throttle going up. Speed drops, but the MPG indicator holds steady - up to point. I sometimes shift into neutral going downhill. I also shut the engine off at lights that I know are long.
There are monstrous sand traps on various parts of the interstate along Lookout Mountain in Tennessee on the way to Georgia. They are there to catch runaway trucks when with smoking brakes.
#1010
My Second Fuel Up, Guys!
- Fuel Light Came On at 36 Mile Range (Two Bars Left)
- Drove Until One 15 Mile Range (One Bar Left)
- Econ Button Off the Whole Time
- No Cruise Control Used
- Mostly 60-65 on Freeway
- Car Gauge Had Me at 42.5 MPG
- Fuelly Had Me at 40.2 MPG
The fit has a lower cost per mile than my echo! :O
#1011
Welcome to the fun, Bear Knuckles! It's only going to get better as you get used to the car.
Since you care about it, look into a ScanGauge or an UltraGauge. You can enter pump numbers into them for calibration, so you can trust the numbers you see while driving. You can see your actual fuel remaining, which beats the hell out of "bars," and you can show short trip (since startup) and long trip (you decide when to reset, it's best when you fill) to see how you're doing.
With real numbers available, you won't believe the mileage you get.
Since you care about it, look into a ScanGauge or an UltraGauge. You can enter pump numbers into them for calibration, so you can trust the numbers you see while driving. You can see your actual fuel remaining, which beats the hell out of "bars," and you can show short trip (since startup) and long trip (you decide when to reset, it's best when you fill) to see how you're doing.
With real numbers available, you won't believe the mileage you get.
#1012
I have a 2008 5sp with 135K that suddenly dropped from around 35 to 27. Since then I've balanced wheels, put new tires on her, ensured proper inflation, changed oil, changed transmission fluid, changed plugs, new air filter, seafoamed(since 135K) and ran a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through her. I've filled up and checked mileage thrice after all of that and I'm still sitting at 27. I don't baby her, but by no means do I drive her hard. Any other ideas what could cause the sudden and constant drop in mpg?
Any help at all will be immensely appreciated.
Any help at all will be immensely appreciated.
#1013
I have a 2008 5sp with 135K that suddenly dropped from around 35 to 27. Since then I've balanced wheels, put new tires on her, ensured proper inflation, changed oil, changed transmission fluid, changed plugs, new air filter, seafoamed(since 135K) and ran a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through her. I've filled up and checked mileage thrice after all of that and I'm still sitting at 27. I don't baby her, but by no means do I drive her hard. Any other ideas what could cause the sudden and constant drop in mpg?
Any help at all will be immensely appreciated.
Any help at all will be immensely appreciated.
Amazon.com: obd ii reader
If the thermostat is stuck open, the engine won't warm up enough. In the colder weather, my MPG drops considerably till the engine gets warmed up.
Next time around, consider low rolling resistance tires.
#1014
I have a 2008 5sp with 135K that suddenly dropped from around 35 to 27. Since then I've balanced wheels, put new tires on her, ensured proper inflation, changed oil, changed transmission fluid, changed plugs, new air filter, seafoamed(since 135K) and ran a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through her. I've filled up and checked mileage thrice after all of that and I'm still sitting at 27. I don't baby her, but by no means do I drive her hard. Any other ideas what could cause the sudden and constant drop in mpg?
Any help at all will be immensely appreciated.
Any help at all will be immensely appreciated.
#1016
Check the codes in the OBD II. Places like Advance Auto will check it for free. I bought a device to read and reset the computer - not expensive.
Amazon.com: obd ii reader
If the thermostat is stuck open, the engine won't warm up enough. In the colder weather, my MPG drops considerably till the engine gets warmed up.
Next time around, consider low rolling resistance tires.
Amazon.com: obd ii reader
If the thermostat is stuck open, the engine won't warm up enough. In the colder weather, my MPG drops considerably till the engine gets warmed up.
Next time around, consider low rolling resistance tires.
#1017
Almost all available gasoline has 10% ethanol, i.e. corn squeezing, mixed in by law. It is SUPPOSED to be environmentally friendly and improve gas mileage. It is a big lie that drives up the price of corn and can potentially harm engines. Congress and the EPA strike again.
#1018
Almost all available gasoline has 10% ethanol, i.e. corn squeezing, mixed in by law. It is SUPPOSED to be environmentally friendly and improve gas mileage. It is a big lie that drives up the price of corn and can potentially harm engines. Congress and the EPA strike again.
I also checked with my obd2 reader; it's telling me there's no codes.
#1019
It wouldn't necessarily throw a code. Your Fit is a 2007, about the time that the latest regulations/raw went into effect. You may not have changed brands, but the brand may have changed the mix. Just saying.
#1020
Actually everything I have ever read states that ethanol results in poorer gas mileage because ethanol has a lower energy content than gasoline. The more ethanol mixed in the poorer the resulting gas mileage.